Just had a McLeod Street Twin clutch/flywheel/master cylinder installed in my '96 GS and I must say that so far I'm disappointed given how expensive the parts and labor were. Granted it is brand new and far from broken in yet, but pedal pressure is MUCH higher than I expected and it so "grabby" (on/off) that smooth driving on the street has become even more of a challenge than it was with my old Spec Stage II setup. I'm using a steel flywheel, too.

My goal was to try to regain some of the good street manners of the stock dual mass setup while upgrading to a more durable system for the occasional runs at the drag strip. Unless the system really loosens up a lot in the next 500 miles or so, this is not the solution I was looking for.

Maybe I just need to bite the bullet and pay out the nose (again) to revert back to a stock dual mass system and hope it stays together. I know a lot of guys that are running a stock dual mass with a lot more power than I'm making (~ 400 RWHP) and seem to be doing OK.

For those that are familiar with the McLeod Street Twin, will it get better with break in? Is there any modification that can be made to lessen the pedal pressure? Or am I basically screwed?

 

I just bought one, getting ready to install it.... Mcleod twin disk with a steel flywheel. I had an Exedy twin disk in my Nissan 180sx and from what your describing it is what it is. The pedal will be tight, and it should grab hard. Did you change the clutch master cylinder like Mcleod prescribes? It will loosen up a bit as you pile on some miles.

 

Yep, we replaced the clutch master cylinder with the McLeod unit. I guess I need to give it a fair break in period but I don't think it will ever be what I was hoping for. My bad, I guess, for not doing enough research before dropping over $2K on this mod. <sigh>

 

I helped RUKWKR put one of these in his car and at first it was pretty bad on shuttering. From the best I can remember it got a lot better. I wouldnt get discouraged just yet, give it a good break in time and see how things go. PM RUKWKR for a little better info

 

Thanks, Blue. I don't have a shudder problem with it. It grabs instantly which is partly why it doesn't seem to be the best setup for the street. I'll give it some break in time but heck, maybe I'm just getting old...

 

Mine was smooth as silk on the street, no complaints. It had a nice 2-3 inch area of pedal where it grabbed. I vaguely remember it being pretty twitchy at first, but after about 400 miles either I got used to it and learned how to drive it, or it got better.

The pedal pressure will never go away.

If you drop that clutch, it will break parts. The hit is massive when you just side step it. Even power shifting is pretty brutal.

Regardless, it's a nice piece. Give it some time, see how you like it in 500 miles or so.

 

Thanks, Neat. I'll try to be patient and give it some time to break in properly. I can get used to the pedal pressure (it's not that bad) but the thing has absolutely zero slippage right now. Literally ON or OFF. Not exactly ideal manners for the street. Thanks for the warning about breaking stuff aft of the clutch. I'll have to learn to be careful.

 

I think Neat's experience isn't the norm, unfortunately.

Most folks report (myself included) a "binary" feel to it, in other words it's on or off, not much in between. If you try to feather it, it will shudder.

That being said, the harder you beat this clutch the better it feels. I would give it a good 500, if not 1000, before getting rid of it. If you do get rid of it, let me know. I might be interested in having a spare.

I don't feel the pressure is too bad on mine though, keep in mind the Mcleod MC is adjustable so you might be able to help it out a little.

But the short answer is you bought the wrong clutch for a street car probably. That's a 1000-1500 HP clutch, can't expect it to be all that streetable. Also, I didn't go with the aluminum flywheel, I wanted a little more mass so I went with steel, that helps a little I think. Lots of horror stories about buyer's remorse w/ the aluminum wheels.

Neat is dead on regarding part breakage, I don't care how much you baby it at the strip (I said the same thing) - sooner or later you'll drop too quick and BOOM goes the spindle. Done deal, no way around it, it WILL happen sooner or later. In my case, I can either curse or thank this clutch, it led to a solid rear, roll cage, the list goes on - my $$$ are all gone. This clutch is a bad *****'

 

Thanks for the feedback, Kevin. Not necessarily what I wanted to hear, of course, but good to have the benefit of your experience. I'll break it in before issuing final judgement. I just hope that while I break it in, it doesn't break something else in the process!

 

That clutch is a hard hitting *****. I rode in and drove Neats car while the McLeod was in it and it felt like the car was rearended on each hard shift. Also, I saw it break the rear twice at the track with the last time being on street tires. If you take it easy, you should be OK, but don't try to launch it hard with that clutch. Once you are moving it should be OK though.

If you end up changing it out, I recommend a Centerforce with a dual mass. Perfect set up for my car. 1.5x second 60-foot times and no breakage...yet

 

Intresting thread. I have sent numerous emails to Mcleod and haven't gotten a response. I tried to call, no answer due to a high call volume. I have sent a message through myspace of all places and got a response. I did get a direct line number to talk to Fred and when I called, no answer. Based on that I'm ready to spend my money else where. Kinda sad.

I'm at around 400RWHP also and I have been tossing and turning at night trying to decide what clutch setup to go with. This doesn't sound street friendly at all and I'm going to get a alum flywheel also.

I hope things get better for you after the break in, it sucks to spend that kinda of money then you don't even enjoy the car. I just spent a good chuck on money on a new complete rearend so I def. don't wanna waste it on a bad clutch setup.

 

I dont understand you all....
You install mcleod that is built for a on/off racing usage and you complain about it?
Those are really nice parts that have nothing to do in a street DD.
And it will not change over time.

 

If I recall correctly they have been purchased by someone (I forget who) so I'm sure that's why. Fred has a rep for great customer service, things are probably in turmoil.

 

B&M bought them. That was quite awhile ago though, I would think that's all ironed out now.

 

Looks like I'm going to have to watch my shift when mine, which came in Friday, is installed.

 

I agree if you have read reviews like these, but it is called the "Street Twin", it is represented as a high HP setup for the street.

 

LOL, good luck. I said the same thing after I broke my first spindle, 1st pass, right after putting clutch in.

2nd time out I made one pass by being gentle. 2nd pass that night I MEANT to go easy but I guess adrenalin got the better of me. Much easier said than done when the lights go green . . .

 

Broken spindles at the track, pain in the rectum... Solid Rear in a C4... Expensive... Saving a friend the trouble of pushing you back off the starting line... priceless

 

A solid is out for me as I'll be autox'ing and road racing it.

 

[QUOTE=Hutch;1569956505 but pedal pressure is MUCH higher than I expected [/QUOTE]

the pedal force will not go away, I had a 3/4" bore clutch master and it was stiff,, the bigger the bore the more force it takes to depress the pedal