Took our project 95 Vortech s/c car on the dyno.
#1
Melting Slicks
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Took our project 95 Vortech s/c car on the dyno.
We took our Vortech V2 sq supercharged 95 on the dyno to get a base line run to see where we stand, and where we need to go.
We did 3 runs with about 5 min cool down between them.
Our best numbers were around 250 whp, 317 ft lbs of torque.
A/F ratio numbers were very rich, around 10.8 to 1.
Elevation is 4400 ft asl.
Max boost was 10/11 psi.
We did notice that the coolant temps were pegged max hot after the 3 runs, so we may have cooling issue to work around. I guess better to find in on the dyno than when it exploded at the road course.
Setup on the car is pretty basic. V2 SQ supercharger, some sort of smaller pully, boost works alchy/water injection, FMU, crappy exhaust shop exhust (looks like stock cats & headers). Crane cams coil & ignition box with retard.
We suspect the car may have larger injectors beacuse of just how rich it was at 11 lbs of boost.
I think we will start off with replacing plugs, wires, optispark and swapping out the FMU for a good fuel pressure regulator and posibly some logging software/ LT1 edit or tuner cat.
We did 3 runs with about 5 min cool down between them.
Our best numbers were around 250 whp, 317 ft lbs of torque.
A/F ratio numbers were very rich, around 10.8 to 1.
Elevation is 4400 ft asl.
Max boost was 10/11 psi.
We did notice that the coolant temps were pegged max hot after the 3 runs, so we may have cooling issue to work around. I guess better to find in on the dyno than when it exploded at the road course.
Setup on the car is pretty basic. V2 SQ supercharger, some sort of smaller pully, boost works alchy/water injection, FMU, crappy exhaust shop exhust (looks like stock cats & headers). Crane cams coil & ignition box with retard.
We suspect the car may have larger injectors beacuse of just how rich it was at 11 lbs of boost.
I think we will start off with replacing plugs, wires, optispark and swapping out the FMU for a good fuel pressure regulator and posibly some logging software/ LT1 edit or tuner cat.
#2
Melting Slicks
Good idea, there's an extra 100-200 HP in there somewhere. You also might want to double check how much the timing is getting retarded. Typically it going to be 1*/psi or less.
#3
Melting Slicks
interesting information. I was curious:
what type of dyno...
10/11 psi is A LOT on a stock bottom-ended LT-x... several people mentioned to me that my 9psi would be "short lived". Of course the alky might be allowing you to run more boost.
My combination was runned REALLY hot until I got a tune, kick the fans on sooner, adjust the timing etc.
numbers are definately low for that combo. keep us posted on the progress.
what type of dyno...
10/11 psi is A LOT on a stock bottom-ended LT-x... several people mentioned to me that my 9psi would be "short lived". Of course the alky might be allowing you to run more boost.
My combination was runned REALLY hot until I got a tune, kick the fans on sooner, adjust the timing etc.
numbers are definately low for that combo. keep us posted on the progress.
#4
Melting Slicks
check the fuel pressure too (this is why i don't like FMU's, none have ever worked for me -have owned 3 different supercharged cars...) ditch the FMU, get 60# injectors, and get the right tune for the combo... several people talked in to 60#'s when i originally anticipated 42#'s... glad i went with the 60#'s
#5
Melting Slicks
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Dyno was a dynojet 248.
The retard box for the ignition is not based on boost, it's one of the units with crappy **** that it mounted in the passanger compartment.
The retard box for the ignition is not based on boost, it's one of the units with crappy **** that it mounted in the passanger compartment.
#7
Melting Slicks
stanley- typically these boost retard boxes (especially with the **** inside the car or whatever) has a vaccum line running to the actual box itself.
my MSD 6-BTM is actually recognizing boost, and with every psi of boost, i can retard the timing 1,2 or 3 degrees with a max of 15 degrees.
I am almost sure the Crane systems (supplied with vortech kits) has the same deal.
*****edit*****
my timing is pulled with the dyno tune, and my box is sitting at 0 retard
my MSD 6-BTM is actually recognizing boost, and with every psi of boost, i can retard the timing 1,2 or 3 degrees with a max of 15 degrees.
I am almost sure the Crane systems (supplied with vortech kits) has the same deal.
*****edit*****
my timing is pulled with the dyno tune, and my box is sitting at 0 retard
#9
Melting Slicks
this will sound hilarious, but my s/c 383 started, not too far north of those horsepower number when I bought it in albuquerque. It felt like a 14 second car. You're missing about 150 hp in the tune on that thing. Bring up the a/f, check the timing. You can swap out the disk in the fmu to bring up the a/f. That'a $30 fix. They have a kit with a bunch of discs for $50 from vortech.
#10
Melting Slicks
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The elevation does kill the fun, cars run about 1 second slower in the 1/4 mile compared to sea level.
Don't get me wrong, we knew the car was not putting down the power it should.
We're just going to slowly work on sorting things out, fixing, cleaning up ect. Some of the wiring done for the alchy/water injection looks like crap so I'm going to take some time and clean up all the aftermarket wiring, ect.
Since we've got it, I've already cleaned out the K&N filter, got the alchy/water injection working and hit the dyno with it to see where the air to fuel ratio was.
We've got a case of nice synthetic oil & filter sitting here wating to get changed.
We're going to try to hit the track on Wednesday and see what it runs in the 1/4 in this condition. Then we'll have a baseline to benchmark any improvements.
Don't get me wrong, we knew the car was not putting down the power it should.
We're just going to slowly work on sorting things out, fixing, cleaning up ect. Some of the wiring done for the alchy/water injection looks like crap so I'm going to take some time and clean up all the aftermarket wiring, ect.
Since we've got it, I've already cleaned out the K&N filter, got the alchy/water injection working and hit the dyno with it to see where the air to fuel ratio was.
We've got a case of nice synthetic oil & filter sitting here wating to get changed.
We're going to try to hit the track on Wednesday and see what it runs in the 1/4 in this condition. Then we'll have a baseline to benchmark any improvements.
#11
Melting Slicks
also, is it pig rich all the way through the curve or just into boost? With that alky system kicking on, you can go a little leaner and go with a a little more timing.
#12
Melting Slicks
It could also be clogged cats. If it's been running rich like that for awhile, and it's still got the stock cats on it, I would be looking there. The over heating issue points that way IMO as well.
#14
Melting Slicks
if you are in fact seeing steady 10-11psi of boost and your dyno# is 250rwhp. There is something very wrong with your setup. There are so many variable can be wrong with it, that you will need to find out why.
A stock LT1 with that much of boost, even without any tuning, the car should pull like a monster. You will feel the power different from a stock setup to a supercharged setup. The different is day and night.
I would suggest you to do the following
1) check and verify your fuel pressure is rock solid
2) check and verify your ignition system is good. Opti, coil, plugs/wires
3) check and verify your cat is not plugged up.
A stock LT1 with that much of boost, even without any tuning, the car should pull like a monster. You will feel the power different from a stock setup to a supercharged setup. The different is day and night.
I would suggest you to do the following
1) check and verify your fuel pressure is rock solid
2) check and verify your ignition system is good. Opti, coil, plugs/wires
3) check and verify your cat is not plugged up.
#16
Drifting
Are you close to Las Vegas?
I have a guy that can tune for you. Our single turbo with 8.5 lbs of boost on stock 100k mile motor was 408/437 rwhp/tq. Prior to boost it was 260/268.
Cheers,
Ron
I have a guy that can tune for you. Our single turbo with 8.5 lbs of boost on stock 100k mile motor was 408/437 rwhp/tq. Prior to boost it was 260/268.
Cheers,
Ron
#17
Melting Slicks
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Brand new MSD opti, Taylor Pro Race wires W/boot protectors are sitting here waiting to go on. We need a chance to finish up ordering in stuff (including some more shielding for the plug wires because of how they route so close to the exhaust manifold), and decide on a water pump and it will get all the parts installed.
We discovered the car has a Caroll tune on the ECU, so my guess would be that the tune plus Vortech FMU are leading to our pig rich conditions.
The cars overheating problem is getting worse, so I'm going to spend some time flushing the system, bleeding it, ect.
We discovered the car has a Caroll tune on the ECU, so my guess would be that the tune plus Vortech FMU are leading to our pig rich conditions.
The cars overheating problem is getting worse, so I'm going to spend some time flushing the system, bleeding it, ect.