C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Electric water pump

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Old May 13, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Default Electric water pump

Which should I get, Meziere or CSI ?
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Old May 13, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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I went with a Meziere HD.

Last edited by rickneworleansla; May 16, 2009 at 03:57 PM.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Another vote for the Meziere!
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Old May 13, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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I'm running the Meziere HD pump.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I'm running the Meziere HD pump.
yep
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Old May 14, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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Default Water pump

Why Meziere over CSI? I am at a place where I can either go electric or new stock pump. Is it that Meziere is a better all around product? More reliable? Meziere does cost more then CSI.

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Old May 14, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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i have the csr it is a good pump been on the car one year only problems have been related to the relay
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Old May 14, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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I installed the Meziere HD electric waterpump. Was easy to install and an obvious upgrade. I can't recommend it enough.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wilsonbh
I installed the Meziere HD electric waterpump. Was easy to install and an obvious upgrade. I can't recommend it enough.


Mez HD in my DD for a few years now. Mez rates it for 10,000 hours thats a lot of driving time. Another bonus is MEZ HD flows more water than regular mez or the CSI LT1 pumps.


MIke
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Old May 16, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy


Mez HD in my DD for a few years now. Mez rates it for 10,000 hours thats a lot of driving time. Another bonus is MEZ HD flows more water than regular mez or the CSI LT1 pumps.


MIke
I'd like to get these electric pumps to have their motor speed responsive to engine rpm instead of just running constantly at same rpm. I'm thinking of a frequency to voltage convertor that uses a signal from splicing into the opti. I've got a circuit schematic and can build it but maybe someone knows if a vendor supplies such a fan controller ?
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Old May 16, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisWhewell
I'd like to get these electric pumps to have their motor speed responsive to engine rpm instead of just running constantly at same rpm. I'm thinking of a frequency to voltage convertor that uses a signal from splicing into the opti. I've got a circuit schematic and can build it but maybe someone knows if a vendor supplies such a fan controller ?
Would there really be any benefit though? It's not going to spin faster than the electric motor can handle. It's at max all the time now. If it runs at a lower rpm at idle and lower speed then you are reducing the cooling benefit of the pump in traffic or between runs.

Lowering the load on the alternator probably wont help add any power either. Maybe you will get a little longer life out of the pump but 10,000 hrs is a long time.

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Old May 16, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Would there really be any benefit though? It's not going to spin faster than the electric motor can handle. It's at max all the time now. If it runs at a lower rpm at idle and lower speed then you are reducing the cooling benefit of the pump in traffic or between runs.

Lowering the load on the alternator probably wont help add any power either. Maybe you will get a little longer life out of the pump but 10,000 hrs is a long time.

yeah, they only draw 7-8 amps and at 12V thats only about 100W, or 1/7 HP max. At lower idle speeds with AC blowing, headlamps on, it could be desirable to reduce consumption by a few amps though. Cruising highway at 1800 rpm I'd like to not be pumping more water than the stocker would at that speed, if I had that option. Only choice is full-on 100% of the time on the electrics. Its something I can live with but wish I had more control.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:29 AM
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I would think that reducing its power consumption would reduce its capability. Maybe it was designed to run at one speed for simplicity or maybe it was due to the design of the pump itself. I foresee lots of 'what ifs'

What if the pump is horribly inefficient at any other rpm than what it runs at now?

What if your pwm (pulse width modulation) circuit fails and sticks you with less flow?

Are you really worried about 8 amps?
(in my 86 diesel suburban, modified using the cs144 alternator) My stereo system draws almost 47 amps at full volume and I have never had an issue with the alt, dimming lights or any ill effects. I dont think you will have any issue whatso ever, and probably wouldn't even notice unless your alt or batteries are in bad shape.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by merlot566jka
I would think that reducing its power consumption would reduce its capability. Maybe it was designed to run at one speed for simplicity or maybe it was due to the design of the pump itself. I foresee lots of 'what ifs'

What if the pump is horribly inefficient at any other rpm than what it runs at now?

What if your pwm (pulse width modulation) circuit fails and sticks you with less flow?

Are you really worried about 8 amps?
(in my 86 diesel suburban, modified using the cs144 alternator) My stereo system draws almost 47 amps at full volume and I have never had an issue with the alt, dimming lights or any ill effects. I dont think you will have any issue whatso ever, and probably wouldn't even notice unless your alt or batteries are in bad shape.
No worries at all, I just want more than one speed on an electric water pump. The stock mechanical pump has more than one speed, and I think I've worked hard enough and deserve it - only the very best for me. My guess is that some vendor will eventually start selling them now, because its a damned good idea. I'd do it myself but the market is too small and I don't have the channels. I wouldn't use PWM.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 04:25 AM
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It would seem to me that you would want the water to move through the system as fast as the pump can move it. Let the variation in cooling come from the fans.

I have my fans kick on at 160 for one fan and 170 for the other, to get a jump on the heat buildup. Yesterday, it was in the 90s here in Florida and with some serious humidity. With the Hypertech 160 mod and with the A/C on high, I never got over 185 water temp, although the oil was at 192. Before the hypertech mod, my car would get to 225+ and that is too hot in my opinion. It's my belief that heat accelerates decomposition of components in and around the engine.

There is a ton of controversy here about this mod. I believe the Mez HD augments this mod a lot, in my experience, to keep the car running cooler. Now, I can cruize around town in the great comfort of cold A/C and with the car not even coming close to overheating.

Billy

Last edited by wilsonbh; May 17, 2009 at 04:33 AM.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:02 AM
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Meziere HD for me too. Had it in for the last 4 years, been running great.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wilsonbh
It would seem to me that you would want the water to move through the system as fast as the pump can move it. Let the variation in cooling come from the fans.

I have my fans kick on at 160 for one fan and 170 for the other, to get a jump on the heat buildup. Yesterday, it was in the 90s here in Florida and with some serious humidity. With the Hypertech 160 mod and with the A/C on high, I never got over 185 water temp, although the oil was at 192. Before the hypertech mod, my car would get to 225+ and that is too hot in my opinion. It's my belief that heat accelerates decomposition of components in and around the engine.

There is a ton of controversy here about this mod. I believe the Mez HD augments this mod a lot, in my experience, to keep the car running cooler. Now, I can cruize around town in the great comfort of cold A/C and with the car not even coming close to overheating.

Billy
agreed. My stat is 160 and here in Texas when it's 95 deg outside and I sit in traffic I've got mine rigged so that both my fans kick on when the digital temp reads 209, and blow until it goes down to 189 and turn off. At cruising speeds it stays in the 170's. Every 10 deg C increase doubles reaction rates including breakdown of the additive package in the engine oil. Lower temps means longer intervals between oil changes, which is a gift that keeps on giving. I don't agree that the pump needs to spin at its max all of the time. Mine does pretty well at staying cool with the stock setup. My main motivation for going electric is to eliminate potential bearing failure on the mech pump and to enable coolant circulation with the engine off. I think a two-speed controller would work well. Once one of these companies Meziere, CSI, etc. offers a variable control for the electric pumps that takes a signal off engine speed, the others will have to follow suit.

Last edited by ChrisWhewell; May 17, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
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