It was nice to get the car moving in a non-virtual state. My son of three, was happy to get a ride in the blue car that for most of his life was on jack stands and existing primarily as weekly deliveries.

The drive was to get to the dyno place near me so I could fill in the RPM gap at WOT better. The car of course had other plans. After a 30 Min fun drive, the dyno awaited us. The car of course refused to run while on the dyno. Even filled the gas tank with 5 gal in an effort to fix the problem. It just would not run. So after an hour, I added two quarts of oil (I had a severe leak but always had good pressure) and drove home. That's right, I drove to an from the dyno but could not complete a run on the dyno. That's me in a nut shell.

The motor is a 427ci sbc with 1pc seal. I find this amusing because people end up in predictable categories: 1) what's a cubic inch, 2) a 427ci won't fit so he's lyin, 3) 1 pc seals don't exist for anything outside LT1, so that's how you do that. I won't even go into the fact that the intake/head is port matched to FP1298/LT4 ports.

My current issues: 1) thought I could get away with my abnormal stock long clutch slave/master travel have to put down the money for the gold plated Mcleod, 2) strange oil leak that effects idle, 3) odd relationship between warm oil and VE table changes not being adjusted by coolant tables, and 4) cooling fans not coming on at all.

Mods are: ported AFR 227cc heads, MRIII, 242/248 cam, 4.125" bore gm racing block, HV oil pump, mcleod twin street pull, ZF6 conversion, 3.73 ratio, 58mm TB, ATI balancer, TD shaft rockers, cheap leaky Al valve covers, hooker header, custom by me xpipe and 3" exhaust, hooker aerochamber mufflers.

Mods waiting for install are: Crane ignition box, MSD ext coil, SSBC electric vacuum boost, new master cylinder, & small 180hp nitrous kit.

Luckily divorce is not imminent.

 

Hang in there. I have traveled down the same road and looks like I am going to again as I install the new 434. Let us know what the problem is

 

one piece rear main seals have been out since 1986. and whats your idle set at? i have a 383 with a larger cam than that and my brakes work fine.

 

I had my 434, the dyno is why I ended up with a BG demon carb. My worst mistake by far was running 13.1 comp on a street motor.The last thing you will need is a bottle. The motor was built with all good parts. with auto trans & 375. A good thing to add is an oil catch can off 1 of your vc holes. allso a vac. tank from intake to brake booster,although I found an electric vac motor in the $150 range. But like Jerkyboy said there is a bunch of tweaking & fine tuning, be patient When you get it right there is nothing like it . frying tires at will,cruising around looking for a cobra or Z06 to jump on. good luck, Hip

 

Are you referring to a bowtie block?

It is always nice to see someone else building a motor. I myself will be curious to see how much power your combination makes.....

I built somewhat of a similar motor, but you went with more cam/heads.

What is your compression ratio?

 

cr is 10.5 leaving room for nitrous, power adder. or bad gas

 

I am working on tuning and bring the idle down to sub 1000. Right now I am at 1150 to 1400 range at 55-65 % MAP.

 

higher compression will not badly effect nitrous. with your idle that high you should be pulling decent vacuum when tuned correctly. and i don't think your d44 will last as long as you think with that engine and any amount of nitrous. you may want to just drive the thing first before you think it will need a "180 shot". not to mention you are going to have to do some serious fuel system mods to be able to support that much demand.

 

Dana 36 actually....and yes drive to enjoy, then drive to impress me