Hi, I need some advice. My 87 stalls then restarts fine over and over, expecially in stop-n-go traffic, but also at low(40-55) speed, maybe higher but I haven't experienced it yet. It seems to do this for a period of about 15 minutes, then fine for a while. I've been trying to look for a pattern, but nothing so far.

At first I thought it was ignition due the the code 42, and I replaced the leads on either side of the ignition module because they were old a cracked, but that didn't fix it. I've been having a hell of a time after replacing the fuel pump to get it to sit in the tank correctly. Guage always reads full, maybe a fuel issue still? I'm desperate, I wanna drive my vette! but it's becoming a nightmare to drive, please help.

Thanks

 

Hmm...for starters code 42 is the EST wire and I would check to be sure that connector is clean and fully plugged in.This is the wire you use to disconnect when setting the base timing.
Be sure after its connected the codes are cleared by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a minute.

The fuel issue,sounds like you may havent bent the float rod on the pump sending unit ..you mentioned you had a hard time getting the pump to sit properly when you reinstalled..you need to tilt it at an angle and then it drops straight down.
Maybe the wire got knocked off or the float is bent or stuck and its telling the dash you have gas when yo probably dont.
Btw are you low on gas?

:)

 

If you have an early 87 you need to get a long screw driver and flash light and check the top of you auto trans for excessive flashing materal that could be cutting into you harness as it goes over the top of the trans, here is a copy of the bulletin and I did find a lot of cars with this problem so you just might have a look.
ENGINE WIRING HARNESS CUT BY TRANSMISSION FLASHING #87-207
Model and Year: 1987 CORVETTES WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (MD8)

Some 1987 Corvettes may experience a variety of engine type electrical problems relating to the main engine wiring harness. These problems may be caused by sharp casting flash on the top, center line of the transmission case cutting into the wiring harness. This area is located directly behind the engine distributor.

A vehicle with this condition may be hard to diagnose since a variety of systems could be affected. Some vehicles have had erratic speedometers, TCC shudder at low speeds, or blown gauge fuses. Other systems that may be involved include injectors, ignition, A/C, etc.

Partial access to the area where the harness is being cut can be obtained by removing the distributor. If sharp metal flash exists on the transmission, it should be filed down and covered with protective tape. If the wiring harness has been cut, it should be repaired using the appropriate wire repair procedures from Section 8A of the 1987 Corvette Shop Manual.


David Fulcher

 

Thanks, I hope it's not a cut harness, I'll check closely.

Here's some more info, I also happens when sitting, with engine off, ignition on. There is a LOT of clicking under the hood when this happens. First the relay behind the battery(farthest one to the inside), so I disconnected the relay, still happens. Next was the smog pump valve relay on the front, disconnected it, still happens. The last two noises are steady, rythmic clicking from the black box mounted to the front of the drivers wheel well(never noticed this before, what is it?), but the wierdes sound is like a gyger(sp) counter under the plenum. Still, happens for a few minutes, then fine for about a half an hour. Arrrg!!!

BTW: At initial inspection, the harness does not look cut.
OH: And it produces codes 42,43,54 every time now. Doesn't make sense.

Any more experiences? Please, help!


[Modified by jcygan, 5:50 PM 2/7/2002]

 

The black box under the left front head light in front of the left wheel well is the box that holds the three relays for the old style head light motors. The relays behind the battery are for the MAF sensor the noise under the plenem is the EGR solenoid every thing other than the head light relays are controled by the ECM and with the key on engine not running they should not be clicking unless battery voltage is getting very low, so if the battery has a good charge and you turn the key on and everything under the hood is clicking then you need to drop the ECM and see what number you have if it's a 1227165 then start the car and while it's idling tap on the ECM and see if the engine stalls if it does you need a new ECM that's the problem.

David Fulcher

 

Yep, I was afraid of the ECM problem. Do they go out often at this age? And, is that large round thing on the center of the intake manifold beneath the plenum something to do with EGR? I ask because my wife's 85 has the same thing and it's not equipped with EGR.

BTW: Anyone in San Antonio I found Grissom Auto Supply who specialises in vette salvage. He's giving me the ECM from one of his salvage-built daily drivers for $150. It's kinda neat that he runs his "junk" and sells it as tested :-) This will be my first purchase from them, so if anyone knows if they are any good/or bad let me know.

Thanks everyone for you help so far!

 

A remanufactured ECM from Advanced with a lifetime warranty will cost you less than $100 exchange. I have gotten ECMs at junkyards for $25 and they have a 10 day warranty on them. $150 seems a little expensive. -Matt-