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How often do you change your brake fluid? I know this stuff gathers moisture over time and loses efficiency. I've read of a procedure on line or in some magazine that sounds a lot easier than draining the lines, refilling, and then working the air out. The procedure is to use a turkey baster to suck as much fluid as you can from the reservoir, then top off and drive a few days. This is repeated serveral times until most of the fluid has been replaced and the color is nice and amber. It sounds like it makes sense as you are removing moisture. You can also do this for the clutch and PS. What do you think?
The turkey baster method works OK, but you're not going to get the fluid that is all the way down at the calipers. I would just bleed the system for a while to ensure all the fluid is actually replaced. If you don't let the master cylinder go dry, you wouldn't get any air in the system.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
In certain european countries (e.g. Germany), brake fluid flushing is required every 2 years for inspection.
Depending on what type of driving you do and how much, for a regular driver (no track or racing), every 3-4 yrs should be enough.
Oddly enough, most DOT-3 brake fluids absorbs less moisture over time than DOT-4's -- hence why most cars recommend DOT-3 fluid.
Doing a brake fluid flush/bleeding is pretty easy -- you'll need the wife/friend, about 1 quart of brake fluid (use DOT-3, not DOT-3/4 and not DOT-3 compatible), and be sure to bleed the ABS 'prime pipe' and then the wheels in the proper (FSM) order (prevents problems with the valves in the ABS/ASR unit) and one of those plastic bleed cups (has a hose to connect to the bleeder screw and an short inside hose which stays in the fluid).
If you jack the car up and take off the wheels, it becomes pretty easy to reach the bleed screws -- and it's a good time to wash and wax the inside and outside of the wheels too.
I replace the brake fluid every 3 years. Remove all you can from the master cylinder. Then I fill the master cylinder and clean "crud" with a new clean small brush. I then remove all the fluid, which is now dirty, and again fill the MC. Remove all 4 wheels. starting at the left rear I clean the bleed screw them attach my vaccume bleeder pump and bild up some vaccume and open the bleeder screw then close before I lose vaccume and repeat untill the fluid coming out appears clear. Close up the screw once clear and replace cap. Move on to right rear then right front and finally left front. during this process CHECK THE MASTER CYLINDER TO BE SURE IT REMAINS AT LEAST 1/2 FULL! Don't forgett your clutch system as this should be flushed using the same method. The vaccume pump, with gauge and bleeder kit is available at most automotive parts stores also Harbor Freight sells them. I believe I bought mine at Walmart. Not a hard job just takes some time. Again the most important thing is not to let the master cylinder run dry or you will suck air into the brake lines.
I completely flush brake fluid in all vehicles on my place on 2 year intervals. Cars that don't get driven as much, I sometimes stretch to 3 years.
Changing the reservoir fluid alone accomplishes little more than nothing. The fluid that is in the calipers and master cylinder is what can cause corrosion damage.
I don't change the fluid for the purpose of brake performance. I do it for the purpose of preventive maintenance. Since I have started flushing brake fluid in everything, I have YET to repair any hydraulic components. With that said, I suppose I AM flushing for brake performance reasons, since leaking brakes don't peform worth a hoot.