94 LT1 Cutting Out Intermitently/ overheating


I'd tape a fuel pressure gauge on your windshield and see what the fuel pressure does at those rpms. Could be faulty injectors.
Also, what shape are your plug and coil wires in? If you have more than 60,000 miles on your O.E.M. wires, it's time to swap them out. Change the plugs, too, while you're in there.
Last edited by onedef92; Jun 5, 2009 at 09:27 AM.


Also, how many miles/years on the anti-freeze and thermostat?
Presume your quoted temperatures are based on the digitial dash temps.
I agree with checking for debris (bags/rags/leaves/etc) in front of the AC condensor (visible when laying on your back just under the front bumper) and no leaves/etc in between the AC condensor and the radiator (visible from the passenger side where the AC lines pass through the radiator cover).
If you do not find any or just very little debris, then it might instead be the thermostat or old anti-freeze.
If the anti-freeze is old, it will not prevent spot-boiling, which due to the reverse coolant flow, can cause hot spots in the heads, and contribute to pre-ignition (pinging).
Also, if the thermostat is not openning enough or has slightly seperated and is closing off the internal passageways more than it should (the LT1 thermostat has an extra plate on the bottom which is mounted to the main plunger and can become seperated -- happened to me).
If the anti-freeze or theromstat is older than 4 yrs -- consider replacing both.
It's easy and can be done at home -- buy 12 gallons distilled water and 3 gallons of old style anti-freeze (Texaco brand or Zylex do not use dex-cool or dex-cool compatible), good technique is: with car cool -- remove radiator cap, drain via radiator pet-****, close, slowly add 2 gallons of distilled water, run till up to temp, start draining via petcock, then open radiator cap (reduces chance of spilling coolant all over), then use a shop vac on 'blow mode' to push out the rest via the radiator cap hole, close petcock, slowly add 2 gallons of distilled water, .... repeat ---- once the drained out coolant is clear, then remove/repace the thermostat (reason to wait is now it is only water to spill on the OPTI). Also drain/clean the overflow bottle (by bumper) wet shop-vac to suck it out works good), then slowly add 1/2 system capacity of pure anti-freeze, top off with distilled water, run for no more than 1-2 minutes while topping off, cap, then cycle rpm's from idle to 3k in 30 second intervals, watching the temps. if all seems ok, take the car for a drive to see how everything seems.be careful, DO NOT drive the car hard until at least 3 complete warm-up/cool off periods to give a chance for the anti-freeze and water to competely mix.
Look at your dip/stick....oil for brown bubbles and look at your water for a residue not there before.
the car has over 115000 miles on it i never touched the coolant but i put a new thermostat in it 8 months ago, its a 160 degree one so its fully open earlier
I drove from North carolina to virginia yesterday and again the tmps started to rise. they were in the 220s so i decided to pull off and try to put some water in it since the coolant was low. bad decision, temps rose even higher 236. i stopped in va and temp finaly peaked at 242. i opened the surge tank and a geyser of water shot out, i ten opened the radiator cap and it released pressure but no fluid. i added coolant this time(the old not the new) and i noticed temps in the low 220s. i belive the reson to be a combinaton of bad coolant and a messed up radiator cap (the lower seal on the cap is dammaged). there were no bubbles or water in the oil or exsessive bubbling in the coolant that would indicate a blown head gasket. no white smoke from the exhaust either. when i checked my tranny fluid for ****s n gigles i noiced it was burnt and had a good deal of bubbling on the dipstick
as to the igntiton issue, i changed the spark plugs and wires last year
Last edited by VetteManHand; Jun 6, 2009 at 09:55 AM.
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the car has over 115000 miles on it i never touched the coolant but i put a new thermostat in it 8 months ago, its a 160 degree one so its fully open earlier
I drove from North carolina to virginia yesterday and again the tmps started to rise. they were in the 220s so i decided to pull off and try to put some water in it since the coolant was low. bad decision, temps rose even higher 236. i stopped in va and temp finaly peaked at 242. i opened the surge tank and a geyser of water shot out, i ten opened the radiator cap and it released pressure but no fluid. i added coolant this time(the old not the new) and i noticed temps in the low 220s. i belive the reson to be a combinaton of bad coolant and a messed up radiator cap (the lower seal on the cap is dammaged). there were no bubbles or water in the oil or exsessive bubbling in the coolant that would indicate a blown head gasket. no white smoke from the exhaust either. when i checked my tranny fluid for ****s n gigles i noiced it was burnt and had a good deal of bubbling on the dipstick
as to the igntiton issue, i changed the spark plugs and wires last year
when you say "i opened the surge tank and a geyser of water shot out", did you mean the black tank near the windshield or the semi-clear plastic tank near the bumper? Presume you meant the semi-clear tank near the bumper -- which is the 'overflow' tank -- thereby the 'geyser' makes perfect sense and is due to the caps lower gasket allowing water/pressure out of the system.
If my presumption is correct above, then this also explains why when you removed the radiator cap from the black tank near the windshield (aka pressure or surge tank), that it only had "pressure", it's because most of the fluid had already been allowed to escape to the 'overflow' tank, and what was left was vaporized.
Unfortunately, the thermostat has also likely been damaged (they don't like being steamed without fluid around them and use a quality brand e.g. ACDelco 131-100) --- and I agree with you -- the antifreeeze is shot -- suggest following my previous post on doing a flush and replace it ASAP.
Remember anti-freeze is also 'anti-boil', but when it gets old, it looses its ability to prevent spot-boiling -- and it also looses its ability to prevent corrosion (aka galvanic corrosion). Therfore, a few hours of maintenance now can save a blown-head gasket (or worse) later.











