Removing the C-Beam
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 217
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From: Atlanta GA
Removing the C-Beam
I am pulling the LT1 out of my '93. I have been told that to get to the top screws out of the bell housing I need to remove the C- Beem and lower the trany and engine a bit.
Am I correct in that I need to completely remove the C-BEAM. And, that the C-BEAM is the three side aluminium frame that runs from the read of the transmission to the differential?
This has one bolt on the bottom and a nut on the top of the trasmission; and two bolts on the bottom and two bolts on the top of the differential. Do I remove all of these?
Thanks,
Larry...
Am I correct in that I need to completely remove the C-BEAM. And, that the C-BEAM is the three side aluminium frame that runs from the read of the transmission to the differential?
This has one bolt on the bottom and a nut on the top of the trasmission; and two bolts on the bottom and two bolts on the top of the differential. Do I remove all of these?
Thanks,
Larry...
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From: Riverside County Southern California
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Westminster MD
I don't know if the Auto's are different or not, but the C-beam is held on with two bolts/nuts at each end. Different sizes at each end too 18 and 21mm IIRC?
Use a box wrench on the top help still, and loosen/tighten the bolt from the bottom.
At some point you'll need to pull the driveshaft -- this will be easier once you shift the C-beam over a little. Be prepared for some fluid leakage from the tranny tailshaft.
Don't forget that the beam is the only thing holding the rear of the tranny/motor up. If you let it swing down on it's own, be prepeared to replace the oil sensors at the rear of the block,and possibly the wiper motor housing when it cracks
A good floor jack and some wood blocks are your friend. I think you mentioned that you've already got the Happy Hooker and a hoist though, which works too. On my current project, at one point I was using an upside-down 5-gallon bucket and some wood blocks to keep the motor (sans trans) from coming down too far (oil pan rested on the blocks). This way I could keep the hoist out of the way until I really needed it.
This last time, when pullin the c-beam out, I gave up on trying to finesse it and just resorted to the BFH to shift it enough to the rear until I coudl clear the tranny and remove it.
Use a box wrench on the top help still, and loosen/tighten the bolt from the bottom.
At some point you'll need to pull the driveshaft -- this will be easier once you shift the C-beam over a little. Be prepared for some fluid leakage from the tranny tailshaft.
Don't forget that the beam is the only thing holding the rear of the tranny/motor up. If you let it swing down on it's own, be prepeared to replace the oil sensors at the rear of the block,and possibly the wiper motor housing when it cracks
A good floor jack and some wood blocks are your friend. I think you mentioned that you've already got the Happy Hooker and a hoist though, which works too. On my current project, at one point I was using an upside-down 5-gallon bucket and some wood blocks to keep the motor (sans trans) from coming down too far (oil pan rested on the blocks). This way I could keep the hoist out of the way until I really needed it. This last time, when pullin the c-beam out, I gave up on trying to finesse it and just resorted to the BFH to shift it enough to the rear until I coudl clear the tranny and remove it.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: High Ridge Missouri
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
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From: Texas
After loosening the c-beam as described above, shift it forward. Then tilt the engine/tranny/c-beam down and slide the c-beam aft to remove. FWIW, you can get the c-beam under the parking brake cable without removing the cable. Just make sure the parking brake is disengaged.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
You can get the top bell housing bolts from the top side on your LT1. I would leave the C-beam in the car so the transmission and motor are in their normal position, then go after the bolts with a wrench from the topside. It shouldn't be too bad with an LT1, I can do it on my L98 if I pull the distributor out. You don't have a distributor in the way, so I think you'll be good to go.
You can leave the transmission in the car if you want, just put a jack under it so that it doesn't hit the ground when you un-bolt everything.
Is this a 6 speed or auto?
You can leave the transmission in the car if you want, just put a jack under it so that it doesn't hit the ground when you un-bolt everything.
Is this a 6 speed or auto?
