Half Shaft U-Joint Removal
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
Half Shaft U-Joint Removal
I finally had a nice day to tackle this project. I followed the great pictures that were posted here from an earlier post with the step by step and it made life very easy. I actually went a few steps further and took the whole knuckle off. Anyway, I have the half shaft out and I've inspected the u joints. There was little or no grease left in them. The one attached to the spindle pivoted ok, but the one attached to the differential wouldnt pivot at all. Most likely, this was what was causing my noises.
Ok, I have the vise set up the way in the pictures and its a no go. These things are frozen in there. I sprayed some PB Blaster in there and waited 4 hours and tried again, nothing. Outside of using a hydraulic press, does anyone have any ideas?
Ok, I have the vise set up the way in the pictures and its a no go. These things are frozen in there. I sprayed some PB Blaster in there and waited 4 hours and tried again, nothing. Outside of using a hydraulic press, does anyone have any ideas?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
If yours are anything like mine were, you aren't going to beat them out.
I used a harbor freight ball joint press. (looks like a big c-clamp) I clamped the press in a bench vise and used a breaker bar to turn it. It took some serious force, and when it let go it did so with a bang.
Oddly, the replacement joints weren't all that tight of a fit. Go easy on cleaning the bores out, but do clean the snap ring grooves well.
I used a harbor freight ball joint press. (looks like a big c-clamp) I clamped the press in a bench vise and used a breaker bar to turn it. It took some serious force, and when it let go it did so with a bang.
Oddly, the replacement joints weren't all that tight of a fit. Go easy on cleaning the bores out, but do clean the snap ring grooves well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Huh??
You are dealing with Aluminum on Steel.....
Take a big socket or whatever big circular thing that will fit under....then another circular thing for a punch and hit it.....
The U-joints on the Corvette half shaft are the easiest u-joint I've ever hammered out.
I thought it was going to be hard so I took a good swing with a Claw hammer that was handy...and the damn thing almost moved all the way.....one hit...
So both side took two hits to move them.
Since I replace supposed non replaceable "Staked in" U-joints from other models, I guess this one seemed easy.
You are dealing with Aluminum on Steel.....
Take a big socket or whatever big circular thing that will fit under....then another circular thing for a punch and hit it.....
The U-joints on the Corvette half shaft are the easiest u-joint I've ever hammered out.
I thought it was going to be hard so I took a good swing with a Claw hammer that was handy...and the damn thing almost moved all the way.....one hit...
So both side took two hits to move them.
Since I replace supposed non replaceable "Staked in" U-joints from other models, I guess this one seemed easy.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
Thanks for the tips guys. These things have been in there for 25 years and 150K miles, they were almost bone dry of grease so I am sure they swelled in there good. I tried a few different methods. I even used a 3 foot pipe on a C-Clamp and the thing wont budge. So instead of taking a chance and damaging the half shaft, I'm having the wife drop it off with the new u-joints to Corvette Connection in Bohemia, NY near my house to press them out and install the new ones. At $10 a press, its worth it. Then it Miller time. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Just for future reference....the two dissimilar metals seize over time.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 20,974
Likes: 261
Just for future reference....the two dissimilar metals seize over time.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
It would help alot if we could go research videos of projects that need to be done, I have seen a couple for c4's but very few, and just like belt replacement stuff. great idea
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
Just for future reference....the two dissimilar metals seize over time.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
Once you "move" the u-joint or "break the bond" Then it is easy.
Sorta like creating that "moment" of inertia. You have to break it loose with on single hefty whack...then it comes.
I'll make a film of it and post to u-tube as I have my left side Half shaft out doing repair on the D36......The Left Side Half Shaft is the last set of u-joints that are left for me to replace on this car.
It would be a great idea to post this on youtube.I got the half shaft back yesterday (kudos to the guys at Corvette Connection) and installed it without a hitch. No more noises! YAY
Now that I know what to look forward to, I will budget time differently when I do the other side.
As always, you guys rule and I am always grateful for your help and insight.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
You probably already know this but I wanted to toss this into the mix anyway...
Blue locktite on the strap bolts. (Those little 8mm guys)
And more blue locktite on the caliper mounting bracket's huge bolts. IIRC their torque setting is huge like in the 125 foot pounds. "took the whole knuckle off"
Blue locktite on the strap bolts. (Those little 8mm guys)
And more blue locktite on the caliper mounting bracket's huge bolts. IIRC their torque setting is huge like in the 125 foot pounds. "took the whole knuckle off"
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 8
From: Houston TX
I recommend a press...remember, you are working with a part that has high rotational speed, and is made from a soft(er) metal. Don't go ape **** beating the u joint out of it, you may fubar the ends and / or the snap ring groove. The proper way to do the job is with an arbor press.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
I recommend a press...remember, you are working with a part that has high rotational speed, and is made from a soft(er) metal. Don't go ape **** beating the u joint out of it, you may fubar the ends and / or the snap ring groove. The proper way to do the job is with an arbor press.
And more blue locktite on the caliper mounting bracket's huge bolts. IIRC their torque setting is huge like in the 125 foot pounds. "took the whole knuckle off"
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
I recommend a press...remember, you are working with a part that has high rotational speed, and is made from a soft(er) metal. Don't go ape **** beating the u joint out of it, you may fubar the ends and / or the snap ring groove. The proper way to do the job is with an arbor press.
That's why I just dropped the half shaft off to get them out. $10 for each press was so worth it, not to mention, if they screwed it up, they owed me a half-shaft, if I screw it up, I'm SOL.And yes, I did use blue loctite on the 8mm bolts, red on the caliper mounting bolts and control arm bolts (they recommend red for bolts over a certain size if you read the package). Everything was torqued to specs per my FSM. I will go under again after 100 miles and check torque on each.
