describe break in...
seat the rings
decelerate
run it hard....
heat cycles only matters..... it pushes the rings against the bores....
it's does'nt matter how a customer drives the car....
drive it easy for 3000 miles
what in fact does break-in really mean?

and what is the end result?
and didnt take it above 2500rpm but once or twice in the first 1000 miles
hasnt quit yet and when i tore it down for a head swap after ~2000 miles the pistons were just losing the crosshatch and the bores were still flawless
this is pretty much what a performance shop owner friend of mine told me to do so i followed it almost to the letter





You did that, right!

BTW: Just in case "break-in" included other things besides motors... For my wife, break-in hasn't fully happened yet. I'm still trying to work some of those bugs out -- after 20 yrs.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 21, 2009 at 03:11 AM.
The only REALLY CRITICAL break in issue is in the case of a flat tappet cam engine. In that case you must use cam break in lube or some other means of having the necessary ZDDP additive and run the engine at 2,000 RPM for the first twenty minutes.
The rings will seat one way or another except in some extreme circumstances such as steel rings on a glazed cylinder wall.






