C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

describe break in...

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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 11:40 PM
  #1  
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Default describe break in...

i've heard the following:

seat the rings

decelerate

run it hard....

heat cycles only matters..... it pushes the rings against the bores....

it's does'nt matter how a customer drives the car....

drive it easy for 3000 miles

what in fact does break-in really mean?

and what is the end result?
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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i followed the nothing HARD for 3000
and didnt take it above 2500rpm but once or twice in the first 1000 miles
hasnt quit yet and when i tore it down for a head swap after ~2000 miles the pistons were just losing the crosshatch and the bores were still flawless

this is pretty much what a performance shop owner friend of mine told me to do so i followed it almost to the letter
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 03:08 AM
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These days, driving it like you normally will is often prescribed. But, the answer will vary depending on the builder, car manufacturer, etc... IMO, 1000 miles of easy driving is a reasonable compromise.

You did that, right!

BTW: Just in case "break-in" included other things besides motors... For my wife, break-in hasn't fully happened yet. I'm still trying to work some of those bugs out -- after 20 yrs.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 21, 2009 at 03:11 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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haha^^
it probably isnt going to happen buddy
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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With todays ring materials, and honing techniques, ring seating is just not an issue to worry too much about.

The only REALLY CRITICAL break in issue is in the case of a flat tappet cam engine. In that case you must use cam break in lube or some other means of having the necessary ZDDP additive and run the engine at 2,000 RPM for the first twenty minutes.

The rings will seat one way or another except in some extreme circumstances such as steel rings on a glazed cylinder wall.
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