steering rack replacement question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
steering rack replacement question
Anyone on here replaced the steering rack on an LT1/4 vette? My FSM makes it look way too easy. Engine is stock except for a Meziere electric w/pump.
ps--I do know the outer tie rod end part of it but concerns are in accessing the intermediate shaft connection.
ps--I do know the outer tie rod end part of it but concerns are in accessing the intermediate shaft connection.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Steering rack replacement is actually quite easy and only takes a few hours. Most difficult are the two hose connections. Be prepared to replace one if not both hoses as getting a wrench on one fitting is almost impossible and even if you do (soak with blaster or something first) you may still round off the flats and be forced to cut the one hose. Good thing is that the hose costs about $25...but it does route differently. It does go alot faster if you just cut the hose and be done with it.
One through bolt and then the clamp bolts, pop the tie rod joints and out it comes. Use a turkey baster to remove the PS fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting hoses. Have to do this with engine cold too.
Good luck...have fun
One through bolt and then the clamp bolts, pop the tie rod joints and out it comes. Use a turkey baster to remove the PS fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting hoses. Have to do this with engine cold too.
Good luck...have fun
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Steering rack replacement is actually quite easy and only takes a few hours. Most difficult are the two hose connections. Be prepared to replace one if not both hoses as getting a wrench on one fitting is almost impossible and even if you do (soak with blaster or something first) you may still round off the flats and be forced to cut the one hose. Good thing is that the hose costs about $25...but it does route differently. It does go alot faster if you just cut the hose and be done with it.
One through bolt and then the clamp bolts, pop the tie rod joints and out it comes. Use a turkey baster to remove the PS fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting hoses. Have to do this with engine cold too.
Good luck...have fun
One through bolt and then the clamp bolts, pop the tie rod joints and out it comes. Use a turkey baster to remove the PS fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting hoses. Have to do this with engine cold too.
Good luck...have fun
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
just did same job on my 96 LT4; it is easy. I agree with replacing the high pressure hose as a matter of course, even though the replacement will probably differ some what from the original.
The intermediate shaft was not a problem. Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and the pinion is at the mid position of the rack. Assemble. Any minor misalignment of the steering wheel can be straightened out by the alighnment shop.
on my car it was the low pressure hose that had the fitting seized in the rack and yes, I rounded the nut. I finally broke the nut loose with ample penetrating oil and several love taps administered through a piece of long brass round stock. I made the nut serviceable by filing down the nut flats. I reassembled everything using anti-seize.
a word of caution, DO NOT cut the low pressure hose running from the rack to the oil cooler. This hose is intergal with the oil cooler; it is not available as a seperate item and the dealer told me that the hose/cooler assembly is no longer available.
good luck.
The intermediate shaft was not a problem. Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and the pinion is at the mid position of the rack. Assemble. Any minor misalignment of the steering wheel can be straightened out by the alighnment shop.
on my car it was the low pressure hose that had the fitting seized in the rack and yes, I rounded the nut. I finally broke the nut loose with ample penetrating oil and several love taps administered through a piece of long brass round stock. I made the nut serviceable by filing down the nut flats. I reassembled everything using anti-seize.
a word of caution, DO NOT cut the low pressure hose running from the rack to the oil cooler. This hose is intergal with the oil cooler; it is not available as a seperate item and the dealer told me that the hose/cooler assembly is no longer available.
good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
just did same job on my 96 LT4; it is easy. I agree with replacing the high pressure hose as a matter of course, even though the replacement will probably differ some what from the original.
The intermediate shaft was not a problem. Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and the pinion is at the mid position of the rack. Assemble. Any minor misalignment of the steering wheel can be straightened out by the alighnment shop.
on my car it was the low pressure hose that had the fitting seized in the rack and yes, I rounded the nut. I finally broke the nut loose with ample penetrating oil and several love taps administered through a piece of long brass round stock. I made the nut serviceable by filing down the nut flats. I reassembled everything using anti-seize.
a word of caution, DO NOT cut the low pressure hose running from the rack to the oil cooler. This hose is intergal with the oil cooler; it is not available as a seperate item and the dealer told me that the hose/cooler assembly is no longer available.
good luck.
The intermediate shaft was not a problem. Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and the pinion is at the mid position of the rack. Assemble. Any minor misalignment of the steering wheel can be straightened out by the alighnment shop.
on my car it was the low pressure hose that had the fitting seized in the rack and yes, I rounded the nut. I finally broke the nut loose with ample penetrating oil and several love taps administered through a piece of long brass round stock. I made the nut serviceable by filing down the nut flats. I reassembled everything using anti-seize.
a word of caution, DO NOT cut the low pressure hose running from the rack to the oil cooler. This hose is intergal with the oil cooler; it is not available as a seperate item and the dealer told me that the hose/cooler assembly is no longer available.
good luck.
