Rocker, and rocker stud help
Most have said to upgrade to the 7/16, but I'm afraid this will cause problems with the valve cover fitting? I plan on using the comp cams pro mag. I have also read in LPE's book that roller rockers take longer studs. Or they will break. I had normal length studs. Could this be more or less the cause of my broken stud? Which means I would be OK to go with 3/8's stud again but longer for the roller rockers? I just want to do this right the first time. I am running the LPE 219 cam with lift @ .560.
Thanks for your help.
I don't think that longer 3/8" studs will fix your problem, if it just stripped the threads off from the nut not being down far enough then it might.
But if your stud actually broke in half, then I would get the 7/16" studs for sure. of course that means new rockers and nuts in 7/16" sizes too.
RJ
BTW did you toss those oil shedders from atop your springs? I tossed mine and went to Ti retainers and 10deg locks. This new spring assembly felt substantially lighter than the stock setup.
I think I replied to your post form before, but anyways, with that .560" lift cam (LPE219) you needed to have the Spring and Valve upgrade from AFR! If you didn't you only have springs that are rated for .550"! This may be and probably is the root of your problem. I would either check with AFR and see what you have and upgrade to 7/16. You won't have any problems with height. Clearance "between" the RR is an issue, but can be taken care of with a dremel tool. Do yourself a favor and check with AFR. Good luck and sorry to rain on your parade!
Ski_dwn_it
I called AFR sometime ago, when the fact my lift was .560, and they only rate there deal .550. The tech guy said that I'm fine at .560. That those springs could handle about .580. They just rate them a little under for insurance. I hope they are right.
Thanks again guys
I'll be checking thing out soon. I have not ordered the RR or studs yet until I know for sure what's going on else where.
Thanks again guys
Hey there guy. I spoke with Mike at AFR and he said they rate there springs at the ragged edge. In other words if they say they are good till .550" they are ONLY good till .550". He said that they are for racing applications and guys want to know what the EXACT rating is for. He also cautioned me about being right at the cutoff point. That is why I went with the valve/spring upgrade. Now I have a bit of cushon. I would strongly recommend that you either stay with 1.5 RR or have the upgrade done. Since the heads are on your car and you would have to take them off and probably have them sent back to AFR to be set for the correct springs, I would probably elect to just stay with the 1.5RR. Thats a decision you will have to make. Sorry man, I almost made the same mistake. I caught it just in time and NO ONE at AFR warned me about this. I had to ask to find out the above. I can't say that they should have known, its up to the caller ask the right questions. Nevertheless, I will follow the progress of this and wish you luck. I can't even say that your performance would be affected with the 1.5RR. It all depends on what you are shooting for. Hell, put a 50 hp Nitrous kit on it and make up the difference and then some! Good Luck.
-jesse
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
:cry Though it's conflicting info with what I got, I think you are right on the money. I'll go with 1.52 RR (I think that's what Comp cams has? Have to double check) which would put me at .530 lift or close to it. SO, I loss 1/32 of lift. Not a great deal really. Which is about as far as I can go safe I think? Hell I'd rather have a car that ran well, and safe then not at all. I don't think .035 will make a over whelming difference? Maybe a few HP. In fact I know A guy with a hot cam putting out a good 360HP at the wheel in a LT-1. Plus I want to supercharge later which means new heads @ min to lower the compression. I'll keep you guys up todate.
Sorry to be the one to break the news to you. :( But I am reluctantly glad to hear that you decided to stay with 1.52RR. I really don't think you will even *feel* the difference. Plus as you said, you would rather have a reliable and good functioning car. I agree 100%. As for the 7/16 studs. Its only going to cost ~35 bucks to upgrade, and the cost of 3/8 or 7/16 RR are the same so I have to ask why wouldn't you? For the extra insurance you will buy much more than 35 bucks. To me its a no brainer. I'm glad I could help out and let us know when your back up and running! Good Luck. :cheers:
Yeah I knew the 7/16 studs and what not didn't cost more, just not real up on all this stuff (as you can tell), and didn't know if there would be a reason not at this point. I would rather have the stronger ones.
Thanks again guys.









