89 Strut Rod Bushing replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Mansfield OH
89 Strut Rod Bushing replacement
The driver's side strut rod bushings are shot
. The previous owner gave me a factory strut rod with bushings with the car, but the spindle side bushing has a metal sleeve that only has a 1/2" hole in it and my outer bolt is 3/4" 
.
I ordered a set of bushing from Energy...but the new bushings compared to the old bushings/sleeves is like a puzzle for shops around here.
Any thoughts?
. The previous owner gave me a factory strut rod with bushings with the car, but the spindle side bushing has a metal sleeve that only has a 1/2" hole in it and my outer bolt is 3/4" .I ordered a set of bushing from Energy...but the new bushings compared to the old bushings/sleeves is like a puzzle for shops around here.
Any thoughts?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
The driver's side strut rod bushings are shot. The previous owner gave me a factory strut rod with bushings with the car, but the spindle side bushing has a metal sleeve that only has a 1/2" hole in it and my outer bolt is 3/4" .
I ordered a set of bushing from Energy...but the new bushings compared to the old bushings/sleeves is like a puzzle for shops around here.
Any thoughts?
. The previous owner gave me a factory strut rod with bushings with the car, but the spindle side bushing has a metal sleeve that only has a 1/2" hole in it and my outer bolt is 3/4" .I ordered a set of bushing from Energy...but the new bushings compared to the old bushings/sleeves is like a puzzle for shops around here.
Any thoughts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
You should be able to replace those bushings yourself. I do not wish to denigrate the shops in your area (or any honest shop) but it's been my experience that sometimes shops just don't want to get involved.
As to the differences in diameters, I'd have to see the parts. Suffice to say, the right stuff is out there.
A little over a year ago I replaced all the original rubber bushings in the rear suspension of my 96 coupe with polyurethane; I got all the bushings from Vette Brakes and Products.
The job was somewhat labor intensive and time consuming but was definetely within the ability of the average home mechanic.
A prerequisite for the job is a set of 1/2 inch drive six sided sockets, a matching breaker bar and some spray penetrating oil.
Undo the rear shocks.
Jack the car, or a least the rear of the car, far enough up to allow the rear spring to completely unload.
Support the vehicle with jackstands. Be safe.
You may need to back off, or completely remove the nuts from the long bolts that connect the end of the transverse fiberglass spring to the outer suspension hub.
You should now be able to safely, if not easily, remove the nuts from the bolts on each end of the strut. Once the bolts are removed, the strut will come out; it may need a little persuasion with a small pry bar or large screw driver.
Removal of the rubber bushing from the strut is either damn near impossible or very easy. The damn near impossible way is to try to press them out cold. The rubber over time almost welds itself to the aluminum strut, and yes, a very large hydraulic press will dislodge them.
Personally, I would not subject the aluminum strut to the stress of using an hydraulic press.
That only leaves the easy way.
The easy way entales using a bench vise and two sockets, one pressing on the rubber and the second on the opposite side pressing on the outer diameter of the strut.
Take a propane torch and heat the rubber, once it gets hot enough to start to melt (and stink), compress the bushing with the vise. It will slide out easily.
Clean out the inside diameter of the srtut rods; remove all traces of the former rubber bushing.
The polygraphite (or polyurethane) bushing is a two piece affair with a metal bushing that slips into its inside diameter.
Grease EVERYTHING, the inside of the strut, the inside, outside and mating surfaces of the poly bushing, the outside and inside of the metal bushing, the bolt that goes through the bushing, the inside surfaces of the ears on the suspension and differential housing that the strut rod mounts into....everything.
Use plenty of grease, a whole lot more than the little dinky packet that came with your kit. Poly bushings (unlike the stock rubber bushings) are designed to allow the parts to freely rotate (not load up, flex, and bind). Also, through greasing eliminates any possibility of "squeaking" .
Assemble, as they say, in the reverse order.
Replacing old rubber bushings can be done all at once or piecemeal over time; in either case, if you eliminate shop labor cost, it is one of the most cost effective, and satisfying, upgrades you can do. Good luck.
As to the differences in diameters, I'd have to see the parts. Suffice to say, the right stuff is out there.
A little over a year ago I replaced all the original rubber bushings in the rear suspension of my 96 coupe with polyurethane; I got all the bushings from Vette Brakes and Products.
The job was somewhat labor intensive and time consuming but was definetely within the ability of the average home mechanic.
A prerequisite for the job is a set of 1/2 inch drive six sided sockets, a matching breaker bar and some spray penetrating oil.
Undo the rear shocks.
Jack the car, or a least the rear of the car, far enough up to allow the rear spring to completely unload.
Support the vehicle with jackstands. Be safe.
You may need to back off, or completely remove the nuts from the long bolts that connect the end of the transverse fiberglass spring to the outer suspension hub.
You should now be able to safely, if not easily, remove the nuts from the bolts on each end of the strut. Once the bolts are removed, the strut will come out; it may need a little persuasion with a small pry bar or large screw driver.
Removal of the rubber bushing from the strut is either damn near impossible or very easy. The damn near impossible way is to try to press them out cold. The rubber over time almost welds itself to the aluminum strut, and yes, a very large hydraulic press will dislodge them.
Personally, I would not subject the aluminum strut to the stress of using an hydraulic press.
That only leaves the easy way.
The easy way entales using a bench vise and two sockets, one pressing on the rubber and the second on the opposite side pressing on the outer diameter of the strut.
Take a propane torch and heat the rubber, once it gets hot enough to start to melt (and stink), compress the bushing with the vise. It will slide out easily.
Clean out the inside diameter of the srtut rods; remove all traces of the former rubber bushing.
The polygraphite (or polyurethane) bushing is a two piece affair with a metal bushing that slips into its inside diameter.
Grease EVERYTHING, the inside of the strut, the inside, outside and mating surfaces of the poly bushing, the outside and inside of the metal bushing, the bolt that goes through the bushing, the inside surfaces of the ears on the suspension and differential housing that the strut rod mounts into....everything.
Use plenty of grease, a whole lot more than the little dinky packet that came with your kit. Poly bushings (unlike the stock rubber bushings) are designed to allow the parts to freely rotate (not load up, flex, and bind). Also, through greasing eliminates any possibility of "squeaking" .
Assemble, as they say, in the reverse order.
Replacing old rubber bushings can be done all at once or piecemeal over time; in either case, if you eliminate shop labor cost, it is one of the most cost effective, and satisfying, upgrades you can do. Good luck.
