87 Transmission Swap
Not trying to sound overly negative, but this is a HUGE undertaking, and it will be problematic from the get-go
But if you must, get the factory service manual and see what's different between the manual and automatic. Probably the engine compartment wiring and the ECM at a minimum. And then there's the goofy rear end ratio in your automatic.
Last edited by gbrtng; Jul 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM.
In addition to the parts, you will need the ECM from a manual tranny car of the same year if you want the 4+3 to operate just like it came from the factory. While I like the 4+3 (have one in my 87
That way, you don't have to deal with the tranny cooler lines, the wiring, shifter mounting, and the ECM. The ZF has a .5:1 6th gear for cruising, a 5th gear for top speed and overall better gear ratios. It will be stronger than the 4+3 in terms of the OD unit.
IIRC, you will also need a different C-beam and driveshaft for the ZF.


That said, understand that the car you have came with a 4+3 or an auto.
The problem arises with the 84 trans.
1. The 86 and up trans does not have a kickdown cable as the 84 does. The 84 is semi mechanical/electric, and needs throttle input to shift. You can even change the valve body from a later car to eliminate that part of the internal fluid routing.
I put one in a '57 Chevy truck, and the only real problem is where to put the engage button. I even installed an 87 power steering cooler with a remote oil filter to catch any debris. You can buy the cooler lines already made up at Autozone, and buy an inexpensive tubing bender to make them fit.
2. If you install the 84 trans in your car, you will not need an ecm, but a chip from a stick car . just plug and play. But it's not really necessary. You will have to use a jumper wire on the ECM to let it know you have a stick since there's no feedback to let it know the TCC just engaged.
3. if you use relays to engage the trans, you just need to manually engage the trans, and can leave the auto chip in place, just attach a disconnect switch on the brake and the clutch pedals.
4.I plugged the kickdown cable hole, and used a relay to arm the trans off of the ignition switch, and then used the output of that relay to engage the trans with a switch to turn it off and on. It is purely a manual selected trans.
Then I used a miniature K&N filter for the trans vents, and resealed the trans so it didn't leak.
You could do the same, and with the clutch or brake shut off switches, you just select the trans whenever you need the overdrive.
The only inconvenience will be you can't leave it in overdrive if it's wired that way.
I bypassed the clutch and brake switches because the trans wouldn't stay in overdrive unless I did.
So, I can go through the gears without the overdrive, or I can stay on the freeway at high speed, and shift between 3rd OD and 4th OD if traffic slows down, or I come to a steep hill around 60 mph. I can even leave it in 3rd OD, because it is 200 RPM lower than 4th standard.
anyway you slice it, you need to pay attention, and not fiddle with your phone, ipod, etc. or daydream. you need to pay attention and DRIVE the car. It ain't your moma's automatic anymore. It's a gearhead thing I guess.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 6, 2009 at 07:38 PM. Reason: info
For a daily driver, it may be fine, but bolt on a set of drag slicks, then the T5 will show it's weak side in fairly short order. IIRC, it's 3rd gear that usually goes first.
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rebuild and put a shift kit in it
use whatever C beam and D/S is in the car; need to swap yoke for ZF6 one













