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I read the posts about RiceBurner's L98 troubles. My 1989 L98 ran good the other day until I stopped at a red light(about 10 miles away). The car started idling rough almost to the point of stalling. I had a little over a 1/4 of a tank of gas. The reason I mention the gas, it almost felt like it was running out of gas. So, I wheel in and pump some gas in it. When I go to start it, she just turns over and doesn't even sound like she's going to start. Recent things done to the car are: plugs and wires; ignition module check ok at the parts house; cap and rotor looked to be nearly new but don't know; completely new in the gas tank all GM, sending unit/pump/strainer/ and wiring. I did not have the coil checked. Could I have a coil problem? It was a really hot day (4th of July).I thought I was going to have to have it towed. The car sat for about an hour or so at the gas station. I tried it 1 more time before calling for a tow and it cranked up. However, it ran rough the 10 miles back to the house. Any other thoughts...coil? or fuel injectors?
I read the posts about RiceBurner's L98 troubles. My 1989 L98 ran good the other day until I stopped at a red light(about 10 miles away). The car started idling rough almost to the point of stalling. I had a little over a 1/4 of a tank of gas. The reason I mention the gas, it almost felt like it was running out of gas. So, I wheel in and pump some gas in it. When I go to start it, she just turns over and doesn't even sound like she's going to start. Recent things done to the car are: plugs and wires; ignition module check ok at the parts house; cap and rotor looked to be nearly new but don't know; completely new in the gas tank all GM, sending unit/pump/strainer/ and wiring. I did not have the coil checked. Could I have a coil problem? It was a really hot day (4th of July).I thought I was going to have to have it towed. The car sat for about an hour or so at the gas station. I tried it 1 more time before calling for a tow and it cranked up. However, it ran rough the 10 miles back to the house. Any other thoughts...coil? or fuel injectors?
Checking the module is interesting but has very little to do with what it is asked to do. They don't heat it to 200 degrees or so that it normally has to deal with. like I mentioned to the last guy when is the last time you did a full tune up? The cap may look good but what does look good mean to you? I would at least spray it with some wd40 and check the carbon button in the cap and rotor for burning thru to the other side is pretty commen especially if the plugs and wires were bad for a while they will raise the secondary voltage required to fire the plugs and stress everything else more than normal.
I just went through a little bit of a weird one lately myself.Car started running rough,like only 6 or 7 cylinders.I racked my brain trying to figure it out.Had module checked,even though I knew it was good.Replaced plugs,wires and cap.Still,no good...Turns out it was my fuel pressure regulator.The diaphragm was leaking fuel directly into the manifold vacuum line,flooding the engine.Your problem sounds exactly like what was happening with mine.
Last edited by Sparkostatic; Jul 7, 2009 at 06:09 AM.
When you took the ignition module to the parts house, did you clean it up? When you re-installed it did you re apply heat paste to the bottom of the module?
I have the same type of trouble. I was driving a couple of years ago Fall 2006 , and the car just died. I tried to jump start using the clutch but no go. When I finally stopped, the car would turn over but not start. I had it towed and the dealer replaced the fuel pump. It was the original fuel pump and the car was 18 years old with 220,000 miles. Now - 2.5 years later it does the same thing, but now it will start back up.
cuisinartvette: Maybe this is explained in the repair manual, which I do have, but can you explain how to "check the fuel pressure"? It only happens occasionally and then usually starts right back up. When I have lots of trouble starting it back up I bang on the gas cap. I do this because I know the fuel pump is in the tank. It usually helps. So, I think it is the fuel pump, but how can I be sure. I don't want to buy a new fuel pump and have it be something else.
There is a fuel pressure gauge for F.I. cars you can buy, comes with a long hose attached to it. Screws onto the schrader valve on the passenger side of the fuel rail, looks like a valve stem cap.
The banging on the cap or tank trick is most effective as the key is being turned to on (simulataneously). Look at the pressure at idle, if you can run the gauge by the windshield and after shutting the hood of course drive it and watch the pressure. If the pump is that bad you should know as soon as you turn the key, it will read low.