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I don't think I quite know what you're looking for here...
Are you talking about the OEM aluminum beam that connects the trans to the diff??? Or the aftermarket reinforcement beam that is said to eliminate driveline flex/hop under acceleration???
The OEM beam shouldn't be bent or twisted, but I don't think I've ever read anything about them being damaged in any way...What measurement were you looking for???
But there are several threads here on the bolts being loose (even though nuts are tight!) and the beam making noise or even being seen to move...
Most will have some of the webbing a little bent. More modified cars may have the webbing really bent from the torque. Mine has not had a lot of miles behind the engine, but has some bending in the middle. Give me a season of slicks and I doubt it will still look like this.
Give me a season of slicks and I doubt it will still look like this.
hehe... Mine was bent just a bit .. but it didn't look like the type of bend caused by slicks .. i'm pretty sure that the torque arm isn't supposed to be completely straight... what do you think chris?
I am pretty sure these are straight like the rest of the mesh from the factory. As for the rest of the arm, it has some curves and is not just a straight bar.
Just checked mine sitting on the garage floor. It has those two subtle bends on the one side right in the middle. Looks like they were forged that way from the factory. My vette had only 40,000 babied miles before the torque arm was removed.
What you will need to do is measure the angle of the trans vs the angle of the differential, there are special tools made for this job. Generally speaking you will want the difference in angle from the trans to the diff to be from 0 to just a couple of degrees negative max, what you don't want is differential angle degrees positive compared to the trans.
I've always been surprised that nobody markets a heavy duty steel C beam replacement. Mine has the same bends others here are talking about, I'll only worry about it if the car develops some untraceable vibration that might be the result of bad driveline angles.
You have to have the trans output shaft parallel to the rear end input shaft. They do not have to be in a straight line, but if the angles are not parallel the two u-joints differences in angular velocity will not cancel out...which will result in drive line vibrations at certain speeds.
No sketch or numbers coming from me, I wouldn't want to be responsible for a bad part if my C beam is not perfect. Best thing to do if you are serious about making (and possibly marketing) a heavy duty steel replacement is to go buy a brand new C beam and use it to make a jig.
BBA is correct that you are generally best off to have them parallel. The only reason to have one or two degrees negative is for a higher powered car, because under hard acceleration the differential will litterally rotate backwards ever so slightly. So with one or two negative this puts it parallel under acceleration.