86 hood alignment
HOOD ADJUSTMENTS (FIGURE 10-10)
Hood adjustments should be made in the
following order:
1. Loosen and tighten hood hinge nuts to align hood
laterally.
2. Loosen and tighten hood hinge frame bolts for
fore and aft adjustment.
3. Loosen and tighten either the lock and bolt
assemblies or latch assembly for lateral alignment
at rear of hood.
Willcox





Using hood hinge bolts, shims, and hold-down pins, adjust until hood is parallel to door with about 3/16-1/4" gap. There is some leeway, just make sure the door will open w/o touching. And, the car can flex when jacking. IMO, the rider's side may not fit the best because I believe some molds were slightly flawed. Aftermarket hoods copied factory molds and may have same flaw.
After hood is aligned, set bumper gap using 4 mounting bolts on front-frame extension. If having trouble, check where the bumper mounts to the crash assembly. Make sure the gap is consistent to that assembly.
(If you can't get enough shims to reduce gap at top of doors, try lowering hood pins.)






Seems to be a very common problem. Alignment, lube, you name it. Nothing seems to work.
I'll concentrate on areas I can fix and leave opening the hood as a to-do later on.
Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Jul 29, 2009 at 12:56 AM.





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So, I loosened the bolts, set the hood down to line up the spring pin with the center of the hole, and then tightend up the spring plate.
Well, with the pin lined up with the hole, I barely was able to get the hood opened. I don't know why it is easier to open the passenger side with the pin being offset of the hole, than with it lined up in the middle of the hole. That tells me something else is going on or out of adjustment.
I'd like to be able to do like I've heard is possible. Pull the hood latch release, and the hood opens by itself.
Though, I did notice I only have one little strut at the base of the hood. The driver side is missing for some reason. Though, the hood stays up just fine once I get it up. Though it is heavy.
So, I loosened the bolts, set the hood down to line up the spring pin with the center of the hole, and then tightend up the spring plate.
Well, with the pin lined up with the hole, I barely was able to get the hood opened. I don't know why it is easier to open the passenger side with the pin being offset of the hole, than with it lined up in the middle of the hole. That tells me something else is going on or out of adjustment.
I'd like to be able to do like I've heard is possible. Pull the hood latch release, and the hood opens by itself.
Though, I did notice I only have one little strut at the base of the hood. The driver side is missing for some reason. Though, the hood stays up just fine once I get it up. Though it is heavy.
Though that could be because I have the thing on the latch on the body adjusted half way on the passenger side. As if I have the thing adjust where the cord is all the way out, then it is even harder to get the hood up when I'm pulling on the release.
I think I'm gonna get the emergency hood release thing from Ecklers. I was planning on just making my own. But I think the Ecklers looks better as it has a rubber grommet for the hood seal. And the cord looks black in the picture. Which means it will be less noticeable compared to the silver cord from Lowes.

I'll do that before I start messing around with the adjustment again. As last time, the passenger side was stuck. Though I already had the rear wheel well panel on the front passenger side removed for another reason, so I was able to just stick my hand up under the hood to release the passenger side.





You had the right idea but might not have tried enough locations. I messed with mine for a couple of hours before learning what works best.
If the spring is strong enough to hold the hood up, I think you should be able to get it to work like you want. Keep trying.
And, if you haven't notice, the giant nut at the base of the spring is also an adjustment.
One technique I remember doing is barely tighting the latch plate bolts and giant nut. (And, I mean barely). Drop the hood from 1' and/or press closed. When the correct tightness is achieved (especially if centered fairly close before your drop), it should move/stay in the correct position after popping the hood. Tighten, and repeat test until you get it where you want it.
BTW: When it doesn't latch, that tells me you need to adjust the giant nut which controls how long your latch peg extends into the mounting brace/hole.






One solution is to draw/scribe a parallel line on the hood to matches the door. They sand/cut off the hood to create an even gap. Of course you'd have to paint the hood (or blend the edge) afterward. (If you're really careful, you could avoid damage to paint on the outside surface of the hood. New paint would only be necessary to the end of the cut edge when complete.) And, the hood would end up being moved slightly further back on that side to get the gap right.








