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The Mod is great when you are under there trying to get that C-Beam in or out. But measure the hole distance and have a welder tack weld two bolts on a plate after you drill two holes in it.
You have to take the C-Beam out to do something anyway. Once it is out, just get some flat stock from Lowes, cut it to length with a hacksaw, eyeball drill two holes.......put the bolts through and semi tighten the nuts. Take a sharp point and scribe around the nuts or hit it with a spray paint to mark the exact location.....go to any welding shop and ask him to tack them together.........
At 180.00 plus shipping are these worth the money?
For those of you that have them did you notice any difference?
I couldn't justify the cost so I made my own, you don't even have to weld the nuts ; just have 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1/4 bar either side so the nuts won't rotate.
Well worth the time if only for the ease of R/R.
Much dispute on whether they work; in my case with the manual they removed the habit of the rearend kicking out on the shift as the driveline unloaded.
I've been toying with the idea of making my own. I'm getting tired of
dodging a 22mm wrench when it slips out of my fingers. I figure take some 1/2 or even 3/4 flat stock, drill it, and tap it.
I figure take some 1/2 or even 3/4 flat stock, drill it, and tap it.
It actually works better if the nuts are floating; you can push the bolts through beam , get each nut started on the bolt then drop them down into the plate so they can't rotate .
It actually works better if the nuts are floating; you can push the bolts through beam , get each nut started on the bolt then drop them down into the plate so they can't rotate .
I couldn't justify the cost so I made my own, you don't even have to weld the nuts ; just have 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1/4 bar either side so the nuts won't rotate.
Well worth the time if only for the ease of R/R.
Much dispute on whether they work; in my case with the manual they removed the habit of the rearend kicking out on the shift as the driveline unloaded.
That's an interesting idea for sure. I like the nut being able to float a bit, takes the pressure off of welding it exactly in the right spot.
I still have problems believing that the plate has any performance enhancing value. Either the C-beam is loose or it is not. having a backing plate on there has no bearing on how tight I get the nuts on there......Once the nuts are tightened and the C-beam flexes closed, there will be no difference.
They make it easy during the R&R, and also eliminate the kick out during the gear shift.
I used to really notice kick out when I had the auto trans and had a hard first and second gear shift where the rear would kick to one direction. (forgot which side, its been so long)
The plates installation eliminated the the kick out, and allows it to run straight.
If you race your car, I think it was well worth it.
Thanks for the tips on those, I'll be making them too.
$9.99 version I prepared earlier.
Originally Posted by jhammons01
I still have problems believing that the plate has any performance enhancing value. Either the C-beam is loose or it is not. having a backing plate on there has no bearing on how tight I get the nuts on there......Once the nuts are tightened and the C-beam flexes closed, there will be no difference.
It is the spread of the clamping weight over a larger area instead of just under the bolt head. Every stick car I have pulled the beam out of has had the trans end holes elongated even though the bolts were tight so something is moving.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by jhammons01
I still have problems believing that the plate has any performance enhancing value. Either the C-beam is loose or it is not. having a backing plate on there has no bearing on how tight I get the nuts on there......
After rebuilding the rear suspension with the ES bushings I also installed a set of plates. The end result cannot be qualified by these plates. If you check the torque on the bolts as a yearly routine, I believe the plates will reduce a lot of hassle. Otherwise, not worth the 180 bucks for a performance gain. Maybe 80 but not 180.
I couldn't justify the cost so I made my own, you don't even have to weld the nuts ; just have 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1/4 bar either side so the nuts won't rotate.
Well worth the time if only for the ease of R/R.
Much dispute on whether they work; in my case with the manual they removed the habit of the rearend kicking out on the shift as the driveline unloaded.
Rodj, thats really a good idea!! What thickness plate did you use? Also, it may not be a bad idea to coat the underside with anti-seize or something like it due to the beam being a different material from the plate.
Do they work? Yes they do. Are they necessary? Depends on your horsepower. If your putting out the horses the car will nolonger kick out to the right during 1st and 2nd WOT transmission shifts. Are they "worth it"? To me they were. Are they expensive? Depends on your income level as well as your personal time constraints. More time on your hands, then make them yourself. Otherwise, spend the bucks and be done with it. All in fun and enjoyment.
I would like to make my own, also. It would help if someone could post the dimensions on the plate. I.E, dimension center to center on the holes.
Originally Posted by rodj
$9.99 version I prepared earlier.
It is the spread of the clamping weight over a larger area instead of just under the bolt head. Every stick car I have pulled the beam out of has had the trans end holes elongated even though the bolts were tight so something is moving.
Do they work? Yes they do. Are they necessary? Depends on your horsepower. If your putting out the horses the car will nolonger kick out to the right during 1st and 2nd WOT transmission shifts. Are they "worth it"? To me they were. Are they expensive? Depends on your income level as well as your personal time constraints. More time on your hands, then make them yourself. Otherwise, spend the bucks and be done with it. All in fun and enjoyment.
If you have serious HP, and also face issues with the C-beam moving around, these plates may mean the difference between always going home with a handful of 10.0X timeslips and finally getting some sub-10 sec slips.
I should have known with the shifter movement that the c-beam was moving around. The beam plates fixed that and no movement since.