C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Plug change

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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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ddahlgren
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Default Plug change

Did a search and way too many results with nothing to do with what i need to do no matter how simple it sounds.. How in the world do you get to plugs 2 and 4 on a 91 L98?? I am thinking the wheel and inner wheel well is next to come off.. suggestions welcome.. Drivers side a breeze 8&6 no real big problem but tight for these fat fingers. Any good clue as to where to buy new wire separators other than the dealer a real plus.. The one for between 1 & 3 I heard leave but not on the floor that would be too easy not on the a arm just vanished..
Dave
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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On my ’89, I take the front wheel of and remove the center of the wheel liner, 6 bolts I think. Wire separators can be ordered from Ekers, I have lost a few also.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by george4
On my ’89, I take the front wheel of and remove the center of the wheel liner, 6 bolts I think. Wire separators can be ordered from Ekers, I have lost a few also.
Thanks!!
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ddahlgren
Did a search and way too many results with nothing to do with what i need to do no matter how simple it sounds.. How in the world do you get to plugs 2 and 4 on a 91 L98?? I am thinking the wheel and inner wheel well is next to come off.. suggestions welcome.. Drivers side a breeze 8&6 no real big problem but tight for these fat fingers. Any good clue as to where to buy new wire separators other than the dealer a real plus.. The one for between 1 & 3 I heard leave but not on the floor that would be too easy not on the a arm just vanished..
Dave
don't know why so many people have trouble with the
plugs, I have worked on way worse cars than my '91 L98. With a good set of extension and wobble/universal joints you can easily get all of the plugs out. If you don't have a good variety of sockets and extensions/swivels etc. forget it.
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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Well it doesn't take long when you remove the fender well, and I've never taken the tire off to do that. BUT a little caution when you install the new ones. Using a short (4 inches) of fuel line on the new plug allows you to screw it in by hand without any danger of cross threading it so common when trying to do it with a swivel. Once it's in then use the swivel to tighten it.
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
Well it doesn't take long when you remove the fender well, and I've never taken the tire off to do that. BUT a little caution when you install the new ones. Using a short (4 inches) of fuel line on the new plug allows you to screw it in by hand without any danger of cross threading it so common when trying to do it with a swivel. Once it's in then use the swivel to tighten it.
Yeah, I always screw them in by hand first.
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 03:52 PM
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I can not physically get my hand in there or see them for the front two on passenger side. Tonights project is to remove right front wheel and center inner fender panel to see what that offers. You can not change the plug if you can not reach the wire pull it off to put the socket on..LOL The first six plugs pretty easy. At 67 k miles everything that should have been changed plugs wires hoses etc. seem to be all original. Things that did little underdrive pulleys airfoiletc all added go figure.. The sticker says to gap the plugs at 0.035 and the ones I have pulled out all 0.060+ with electrodes burned flush to the porcelin and ground strap indented or burned away a bit. So far they all look good though so a plus. Neglected but still healthy I guess. Next the coolant hoses Y pipe with no pre-cats and fuel filter while in there original no doubt..
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