Help getting knock sensors out...LT1
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Drifting
Joined: May 2007
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From: Motor City
Help getting knock sensors out...LT1
Well i am tackling the water pump and i am stuck on step number 1, getting the coolant out. The nut is already striped on both of them!! 
So i searched and found that putting vice grips on the rounded portion of the sensor has yielded postive results for some people. Not for me, they haven't even budged. I have used pb blaster and everything i can think of!
So here is my question, will a torch and heating them up get these bastards out?
I wish i would have stumbled upon the method of blowing the coolant out with a shop vac out before i messed the sensors up, but now my guess is they have to be replaced.
So i searched and found that putting vice grips on the rounded portion of the sensor has yielded postive results for some people. Not for me, they haven't even budged. I have used pb blaster and everything i can think of!
So here is my question, will a torch and heating them up get these bastards out?
I wish i would have stumbled upon the method of blowing the coolant out with a shop vac out before i messed the sensors up, but now my guess is they have to be replaced.
Le Mans Master
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I have never had a problem getting them out, but I would agree that you have probably committed to it now. If you go for the torch be careful no the butn up some wiring, etc as that area is pretty tight.
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Use a pipe wrench and buy new KS 
I assume you removed the shields...
I assume you removed the shields...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
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From: Motor City
yes i removed the shields....The bozo who owned/worked on the car before me must have torqed them down wayyyyyy to tight or put some sealant on them. I mean come on they are only supposed to be torqued down to 14ft/lbs.
I'll try the pipe wrench and order some new sensors today.
I'll try the pipe wrench and order some new sensors today.
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Mine were in tight, too. I used a pair of locking vice grips to coax mine out. The round part of the sensor is actually pretty sturdy and robust. It's the plastic connector "nipple" that's fragile and easy to shear off.
I'd replace them with genuine AC/Delphi sensors, too. Some cheapie aftermarket brands like Wells (VatoZone) aren't calibrated to factory specs and can actually create a false Code 43 (knock sensor circuit).
I'd replace them with genuine AC/Delphi sensors, too. Some cheapie aftermarket brands like Wells (VatoZone) aren't calibrated to factory specs and can actually create a false Code 43 (knock sensor circuit).
Last edited by onedef92; Aug 12, 2009 at 12:42 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Elkton MD
Knock Sensors
The hex on my '95 knock sensors were gone too.
Good excuse to buy a huge set of water pump pliers (channel locks). I tried a pipe wrench but it was too big to fit (about 4' long). As mentioned, the body of the knock sensor was plenty stiff enough to handle the load.
Have new ones in hand and be ready for the flood. If there's no flood, use a screw driver to break the crust.
Good excuse to buy a huge set of water pump pliers (channel locks). I tried a pipe wrench but it was too big to fit (about 4' long). As mentioned, the body of the knock sensor was plenty stiff enough to handle the load.
Have new ones in hand and be ready for the flood. If there's no flood, use a screw driver to break the crust.
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Le Mans Master
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Extra sealant can cause bad knock readings and error codes.
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The KS are to be hand tight or up to 22 ft-lbs. Use a light coat of sealant
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I believe the FSM states do NOT use extra sealant, just the orange coating from the factory. Extra sealant can cause bad knock readings and error codes because the acoustic coupler's (actually a tiny microphone) sensitivity can be negatively affected.
Team Owner
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Team Owner
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The KS are to be hand tight or up to 22 ft-lbs. Use a light coat of sealant
Your previous response could be construed to mean YOU might. I'm not saying you did, I just don't want the OP to erroneously add extra sealant to the device when none is needed.
