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Are you sue you want to use R12? I have had good luck using R134 and a change over kit that will have oil and leak stop in it I did that to my 84 and it works well. But if you have R12 just add a couple oz. of R12 oil
Are you sue you want to use R12? I have had good luck using R134 and a change over kit that will have oil and leak stop in it I did that to my 84 and it works well. But if you have R12 just add a couple oz. of R12 oil
You bet I want to use R12 it works ten times better than R134 in a 12 system. When you live in South Tx and temps are over 100 for weeks on end you can't have to much cooling.
fyi for anyone who cares Freeze12 from "Johnsen's" works better than R134 in a 12 system
If you're replacing the compressor, you should also be replacing the Accumulator/Dryer. Most of the oil winds up in the latter. I would blow out all the lines using Brake Parts Cleaner (keep spraying until the fluid comes out clear) and then used compressed air (preferably with a water filter installed). You can do the same with the Evaporator. Condensors are pretty impossible to flush, but at $100 or so, cheap enough to replace. Put 4 ozs in the new compressor and turn the shaft a dozen or so times in one direction, then the other, drain and repeat leaving 4 ozs of fresh oil in it. Put the balance in a new Accumulator/Dryer. Pull a vacuum and recharge.
A bunch of people I know (including myself) just throw some Freeze12 from NAPA in the system and you are good to go. Mine has only had it in there a few weeks but it is ice cold and no leaks or issues of note. Others i talked to haev had it in there much longer without issue. 10 bucks a pound for it at NAPA and you are on your way
Hmmm my NAPA in NC has plenty of it just bought some a few weeks ago. Try Carquest if you have one near you
I just did a search on Ebay and ther eis a ton of it on there for a similar price to what I found at NAPA (10 bucks a can).
You odnt need to purge the system or put special fittings on like it says that is just reles and regs BS. My guy just used a tool that pokes a hole in the side of the cars which feeds a refill hose that uses the R12 fittings just fine. $20 and i have ice cold AC
Call you other parts stores (Not advance or autozone - they never have it) or just use ebay, it works great
and here is three cans of Freeze 12 for 30 bucks shipped - you iwll not use all three as that fills a completely empt system but you will have some if you need to top off down the road
You odnt need to purge the system or put special fittings on like it says that is just reles and regs BS. My guy just used a tool that pokes a hole in the side of the cars which feeds a refill hose that uses the R12 fittings just fine. $20 and i have ice cold AC
and here is three cans of Freeze 12 for 30 bucks shipped - you iwll not use all three as that fills a completely empt system but you will have some if you need to top off down the road
So you're saying if you have R12 still in the system just add Freeze 12?
Is your "my guy" a professional mechanic?
Freeze 12 is a blend. The problem with a blend is if it leaks out of the system, you no longer have the proper chemical mix. There is no way of telling what pecentage of what chemical is left in the system. So how can you top off the system?
If you read the recommendations of the manufacturer of Freeze 12 they state the system must be evacuated before adding Freeze 12 along with adding the proper fittings on the hi and low side lines.
They also state the EPA requires a dedicated machine to remove Freeze 12.
I can't imagine any legitimate auto AC shop would touch your system if you have a problem in the future.
This is the questions and answers right from the manufacturers site.
So you're saying if you have R12 still in the system just add Freeze 12?
Is your "my guy" a professional mechanic?
Freeze 12 is a blend. The problem with a blend is if it leaks out of the system, you no longer have the proper chemical mix. There is no way of telling what pecentage of what chemical is left in the system. So how can you top off the system?
If you read the recommendations of the manufacturer of Freeze 12 they state the system must be evacuated before adding Freeze 12 along with adding the proper fittings on the hi and low side lines.
They also state the EPA requires a dedicated machine to remove Freeze 12.
I can't imagine any legitimate auto AC shop would touch your system if you have a problem in the future.
This is the questions and answers right from the manufacturers site.
You can get an EPA certification to purchase R12 for $20.00. It's an open book test. You can purchase cans of R12 on E-bay for $20.00.
I don't dispute any of what you siad about the regs i am just passing on info after talking to dozens of people who have topped off with Freeze 12 without issue over an extended period. I am not saying this is not a shortcut but some shortcuts work without harm. the recovery and application of different fittings and labels is just to satisfy the EPA, Freeze 12 is perfectly compatable with R12 and the oils, etc int he system already
Last edited by robertpel9; Sep 1, 2009 at 10:18 PM.
Freeze 12 is 80% R134 - it doesn't mix with R12 anymore than pure R134. Users get away with it because there's nothing left in most of the cars it's put into - just like the Hydrocarbon refrigerants - flammable and specifically outlawed in 19 or so States, but use what you want, it's your car. If you end up blowing a hole in the hood, oh well.
Freeze 12 is 80% R134 - it doesn't mix with R12 anymore than pure R134. Users get away with it because there's nothing left in most of the cars it's put into - just like the Hydrocarbon refrigerants - flammable and specifically outlawed in 19 or so States, but use what you want, it's your car. If you end up blowing a hole in the hood, oh well.
Well I am not a chemist so I won't pretend to know everything, i am just relaying the experience of myself and MANY others. I was at carquest this morning and they have a ton of it for sale. I asked them as well and they gave the same answer i have heard everywhere which is use the side puncture tool and fill it up. I have not heard of anyone having an issue and to me visual evidence trumps theory. If you really want to play safe there is no harm in purging the system first but i would still refill with Freeze 12 over straight 134a. The air in so much colder in my vette than in the mercedes I have that use 134a that i forgot just how cold a non 134a system can be, its an icebox. You do not need the special fittings and labels though outside of an EPA compliance issue
Well I am not a chemist so I won't pretend to know everything, i am just relaying the experience of myself and MANY others. I was at carquest this morning and they have a ton of it for sale. I asked them as well and they gave the same answer i have heard everywhere which is use the side puncture tool and fill it up. I have not heard of anyone having an issue and to me visual evidence trumps theory. If you really want to play safe there is no harm in purging the system first but i would still refill with Freeze 12 over straight 134a. The air in so much colder in my vette than in the mercedes I have that use 134a that i forgot just how cold a non 134a system can be, its an icebox. You do not need the special fittings and labels though outside of an EPA compliance issue
I to have used Freeze12 on a # of cars an trucks and it does cool much better than pure 134. However like someone else said it is 80% 134 so you should remove the R12 oil and put in 134 oil.
For me though real R12 is the only way to go it works tons better than anything else.