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On my way to run errands yesterday, the car died on me. Looked under the hood and I had tighened the radiator hose on the pass. side all the way and it was leaking pretty bad.
Here is the weird part, I had put RTV all around the opti when I installed it and from what I could tell, the coolant leaked over the front of the opti and not directly on top and when I 1st pulled over the car would restart and backfire, but after it sat for a few minutes it would not start at all.
Got the car home and tried to start it this morning and no go, I have two questions.
1) Could spray alone get into a supposedly sealed opti and cause this or did fluid get into the connector and create a short between a couple of wires?
2) Should I give it a day and see if it dries out and runs or tear it down( don't want to, just changed wires and WP) and clean it out?
If you have a shrink insulation heat gun use it to heat up and dry out the area on, around and in the Opti. Use a hair dryer if you don't have a heat gun. Its worth a try.
I'd rent or borrow a code tester and see if the Opti was throwing the code to be the cause. It might dry out, put a drop light down near it to make some heat. Just don't set it on something plastic that it can hurt. There's a lot of difference between 100 degrees with the bulb near things and melting with the shield on something.
Heat gun is a great idea; careful though,they will melt plastic. The wife has not forgiven me for the damage I did defrosting the freezer.....
Good luck but it sounds like you're about to pull an Opti.
Yours is a known case of fluid neer the Opti but the last one I looked at that just backfired a few times then refused to start was a case of the 'rotor screws' just backing out.
I've been told that is the common death cause. They need to be pulled apart and the screws epoxied in place or a verry small machine screw and lock nut put in place.
Wish I'd know that before putting my last one in my car!
Thought my leak was caused by a bad hose, well after examining the T housing it wasn't. My housing is pitted and has a lot of build up, especially the underside of the snout, so I would say if you see coolant under your car, it might not be the WP.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
One of the things I did when I replaced my ICM and coil (based on a suggestion here) I put several washers between the head and the plate for the ICM/Coil. This seems to have helped the ICM last a little longer.