C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Cleaning out the radiator

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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #1  
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Default Cleaning out the radiator

1986 Corvette
This evening's project was to pull the radiator, clean out the old crud and straighten fins, change out fan coolant sensor then flushing out the block to clean out the old coolant that was a funky green/brown.
Everything went fairly well on the tear down until I got to the lower tranny line. As I turned the wrench it didn't feel quite right and after turnign it maybe 3/4s of a full turn I noticed the line was turning along with the fitting. I stopped turning it and turned back to straighten the line back out and just cleaned out the rat's nest in front of the radiator and changed out the fan sensor.
OK, everything back on and filled the rad with cleaner and water then cranked it up. Everything went fine then I noticed tranny fluid dripping down from the right front of the radiator. I turned it off and tried to tighten the lower fitting a little more but it still leaks trans fluid.
The fitting does not have any fluid on it.
My question is did I crack the brittle old radiator when trying to undo the lower fitting and how in the hell do I get the lower fitting off without kinking the hell out of the line?
Thanks
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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The nipple on the radiator is broken and turns freely, so you may have to replace the transmission tubing. The only thing you might have some luck with would be to saw off the radiator nipple so you can get a vise grip on it and turn the xmsn tubing connector off of it. You will also have to replace the radiator. My 87's radiator let go earlier this year after driving it every day for 20 years. My engine runs cooler too!
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:13 AM
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That was what I was afraid of. If I can't disconnect the lower line can I hack saw the line and clamp on a connector to hook up to the new radiator?
I keep reminding myself about how much fun it is to drive and work on at this moment. lol
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 07:34 AM
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Use a tubing cutter instead of hacksaw no metal chips to get in the line.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 07:52 AM
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For a new GM radiator go to (thepartsladi) on ebay , they have original GM radiators for $130.00 with 2 year warrantys...WW
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:08 AM
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I woke up early and undid all of the bolts and stuff on the shroud then cut the line. The fitting is completely frozen onto the line. After pulling the radiator I now believe the rad is fine but the leak was from the fitting. Maybe once I loosened the fitting and kinked the line I never got the fitting tight back into the radiator? The plastic shows no cracks or leaks and once the line was cut the fitting turned by hand. Geez, I need a nap.

Last edited by megtom2; Sep 5, 2009 at 08:24 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
For a new GM radiator go to (thepartsladi) on ebay , they have original GM radiators for $130.00 with 2 year warrantys...WW
That would be great if she was local. If the rad is the cause of the leak though I might as well go with that option because NOBODY local has one available in the store according to their online sites(Oreilly, AZ, Advance).
Thanks to everyone for their help. I told my wife before we bought this car it would be a hobby and transportation. I'd like to get back to the trans part ASAP.
One other thing. The guy who did the write up on cleaning out the area in front of the radiator was not lying. I think I found Jimmy Hoffa in there.

Last edited by megtom2; Sep 5, 2009 at 08:26 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 10:22 AM
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Jimmy Hoffa
lol
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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Well I am back with an update. I bought a short piece of brake line with the flared ends with the same size fittings as the tranny line. Also grabbed a half foot of 5/16s rubber tranny line and some radiator fasteners. Hooked it up and bolted everything back down once again. NO LEAKS! Temps have also gone down from hovering in the mid 230s to around the 200 degree mark. Yes, I know chevy/GM made these engines run hot but that was for emmissions. Engines don't need to run that hot and I have enough experience with fbody l98s.
Thanks
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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Nothing in your engine will be harmed by 200 F temps. Its YOUR head that needs adjusting!
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jfb
Nothing in your engine will be harmed by 200 F temps. Its YOUR head that needs adjusting!
Running at 230+ though will crack a block. Red Devil has it contained for now but I'll be dropping a new 350 in my 89 Formula sooner or later.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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230° may not hurt...but it is not "right" either. Glad you did what you did.....yes it is a pain but getting it right is better in the long run
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by megtom2
Running at 230+ though will crack a block.

Huh..........
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Weav's Vet
Huh..........

I read some of the replays to posts on here and just shake my head. Some are misinformed, some just nasty and offer no help what so ever. Nice the OP could get things sorted out and is back enjoying the drive
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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Glad you got it all working OK. It's amazing how much cooler they run without the leaves, cigarette butts, dead mice, walmart bags etc clogging the airflow. C4 AKA bottom feeder AKA Road Vacuum. Removing and cleaning the front of the radiator is one of the best maintenance items a C4 owner can do.

Really though, 230 shouldn't crack the block. I had my fan relay go dead on my 84, and it got to 249 sitting in line at Sonic before I realized there was a problem. I let it cool off, and it ran fine....10K miles ago, no issues. Maybe I just got lucky.
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