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There is the LTCC setup that uses LS1 coils, and the Delteq that uses Northstar coils. I have the LTCC setup on my car and I've had very good results. I like LTCC because it uses LS1 coils, which are used on LS1's, as well as all the truck engines. They are cheap and very, very reliable, as well as providing plenty of spark for almost any combo.
There is the LTCC setup that uses LS1 coils, and the Delteq that uses Northstar coils. I have the LTCC setup on my car and I've had very good results. I like LTCC because it uses LS1 coils, which are used on LS1's, as well as all the truck engines. They are cheap and very, very reliable, as well as providing plenty of spark for almost any combo.
yea thats the system, do you still have to have an opti but not using it or is there a cover for the opti,how does that work, and can you use an ignition box with this system?
EFI makes a kit as well using the LS1 coils and PCM. It also eliminates the Opti completely which is replaced by a new reluctor and sensor. Looks a bit pricey, but then I haven't fully priced them all out yet.
EFI makes a kit as well using the LS1 coils and PCM. It also eliminates the Opti completely which is replaced by a new reluctor and sensor. Looks a bit pricey, but then I haven't fully priced them all out yet.
yea thats the system, do you still have to have an opti but not using it or is there a cover for the opti,how does that work, and can you use an ignition box with this system?
With LTCC and Delteq, you need the opti for the optical signal for the computer. I don't think you can use an ignition box with either, and I don't know why you would. The LTCC has a built in rev limiter and nitrous retard. The LS1 coils produce plenty of spark to make lots of power, so I don't see what you would really gain with any kind of ignition box.
An LS1 computer swap is the ultimate solution, eliminating the opti all together. It is quite a bit more work, with mods to the timing cover (meaning the oil pan has to come down), and dealing with getting the new computer tuned for your engine (I doubt a stock LS1 tune will get right). That said, if you're willing to spend some time/money, you'll get a better computer that's easier to tune and more tunable, as well as a no opti and 8 coil controlled directly by the computer.
An LS1 computer swap is the ultimate solution, eliminating the opti all together. It is quite a bit more work, with mods to the timing cover (meaning the oil pan has to come down), and dealing with getting the new computer tuned for your engine (I doubt a stock LS1 tune will get right). That said, if you're willing to spend some time/money, you'll get a better computer that's easier to tune and more tunable, as well as a no opti and 8 coil controlled directly by the computer.
Is there any performance advantage to changing over to this system? The reason I ask is because the Opti only costs about $75 and a water pump is about the same, so for $150 and abut 2 to 3 hours I can replace both(just did it Saturday). Doesnt seem worth the effort unless there is a huge performance advantage. That and it clutters up under the hood.
Is there any performance advantage to changing over to this system? The reason I ask is because the Opti only costs about $75 and a water pump is about the same, so for $150 and abut 2 to 3 hours I can replace both(just did it Saturday). Doesnt seem worth the effort unless there is a huge performance advantage. That and it clutters up under the hood.
if you havent already bought the msd opti and a msd ignition box with built in rev limiter and retarder like i did then this would make a good ignition upgrade.
Is there any performance advantage to changing over to this system? The reason I ask is because the Opti only costs about $75 and a water pump is about the same, so for $150 and abut 2 to 3 hours I can replace both(just did it Saturday). Doesnt seem worth the effort unless there is a huge performance advantage. That and it clutters up under the hood.
You've either got to let the forum in on where you shop, or start buying quality parts.
You've either got to let the forum in on where you shop, or start buying quality parts.
Got em both off ebay. And as easy as the job was to do, in 3 or 4 years when they need to be done again, I am more than happy to do it again to save $700. The car that this psuedo replaced was driven maybe 2000 miles a year since I bought it. It accelerates without breaking up all the way to well past redline, actually further than I am comfortable taking a 154k mile LT1. So its not an MSD or the like, but it will be fine for me, being the origional non vented lasted this long.