Air conditioner
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 491
From: Denver, NC
If the system is functioning properly leave it alone.
134A is significantly cheaper than R12, but many times o-ring leaks and evap core leaks appear after switching over.
Also, after all the systems I've seen, R12 worked better as far as cooling goes.
134A is significantly cheaper than R12, but many times o-ring leaks and evap core leaks appear after switching over.
Also, after all the systems I've seen, R12 worked better as far as cooling goes.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Chapin South Carolina
There is several discussions on this in the forum. All I can say is that everyone has an opinion both ways. Some like Ed believe that you should leave it R12 and I would probably agree. But I have seen some good arguments also about converting to the R134A. Ecklers makes a conversion kit to R134a that replaces the evaporator and the o-rings. But the R12 crowd tells you that you will kill your compressor because it is built for R12 and the R134A crowd says that you will get 7-8 years out of the compressor and on a 20 year car it will need replacing at that time anyways.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Holtsville NY
Go with the conversion if you can, first off r12 is extremely hard to find and very expensive when you do find it, example I found a guy who had 1# cans and wanted 60 bucks a can, rediculous. the conversion kit is not a big deal and should run you about 140 bucks installed and ready to go, plus is you have a leak and decide to stick with r12 you'll be wasting time and money if there is a leak, at least with the conversion they will test the lines for you. Hope this helps, I just been down this road before and like I said r12 is almost extinct..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
I don't know of any conversion kit that requires an Evaporator - that's an 6 to 8 hour job (flat rate) and though most a/c shops would love it, the only reason to swap it out is because it's leaking (unfortunately, GM's are notorious leakers). You will need an Accumulator because the old one isn't compatible with anything but R12 and putting something else in it will cause it to crumble and plug up the system; possibly destroying the compressor BUT once it's exposed to air, it's no good anyway.
Compressors compress low pressure vapor into a high pressure gas and as long as there's no liquid the type of gas doesn't matter. AND it can compress air if that's what you want it to do - but the moisture from that process will eventually ruin something. The shaft seal works with positive pressure and they seem to fail when there's no gas; ie, no pressure; notably Nippo units which weren't used until '88 - let them get low and they start to leak and overtime, the process is irreversible no matter how much you put in it.
These guys (pros) recommend this: http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=7927
I simply recommend that you get your license to buy R12 at www.epatest.com and buy all the R12 you want - a 25 year old system usually needs so much more than gas - like a complete rebuild - the gas will seem cheap when you're done.
Compressors compress low pressure vapor into a high pressure gas and as long as there's no liquid the type of gas doesn't matter. AND it can compress air if that's what you want it to do - but the moisture from that process will eventually ruin something. The shaft seal works with positive pressure and they seem to fail when there's no gas; ie, no pressure; notably Nippo units which weren't used until '88 - let them get low and they start to leak and overtime, the process is irreversible no matter how much you put in it.
These guys (pros) recommend this: http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=7927
I simply recommend that you get your license to buy R12 at www.epatest.com and buy all the R12 you want - a 25 year old system usually needs so much more than gas - like a complete rebuild - the gas will seem cheap when you're done.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,783
Likes: 15
From: Northern California
Cheaper to buy and refill.
Disadvantages:
1) Very Expensive to convert "Correctly". 134A Components are more efficiently designed to provide the maximum cooling. Evacuating the system, adding the new oil, fittings and hoses is not a Correct conversion. A New 134A compatible Condenser (has many very tiny passages compared to the large passages used in an R12 condenser) must be installed to provide the maximum cooling on a 134A system.
2) 8*-10* Warmer air temps.
3) More money spent to convert Back to R12.
Last edited by GKK; Sep 30, 2010 at 07:37 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 3
From: Carmichael ca
I've done hundreds of conversions, its no big deal. Remove the orifice tube and drier and flush the system with AC solvent and compressed air. Add R134 oil a new o-tube, drier and fittings, evacuate and recharge.
Sometimes there are leaks, these are old cars. If you use the R134 with dye in it the leaks are usually easy to find.
Sometimes there are leaks, these are old cars. If you use the R134 with dye in it the leaks are usually easy to find.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
I've done hundreds of conversions, its no big deal. Remove the orifice tube and drier and flush the system with AC solvent and compressed air. Add R134 oil a new o-tube, drier and fittings, evacuate and recharge.
Sometimes there are leaks, these are old cars. If you use the R134 with dye in it the leaks are usually easy to find.
Sometimes there are leaks, these are old cars. If you use the R134 with dye in it the leaks are usually easy to find.
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