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I am getting desperate now. I just drove my 85 50 miles back to my appartment not less than 10 minutes ago. While I was getting out of my car one of my friends asked to go for a ride so I said O.K. Well, I get in the car and turn the key and it won't even try to crank over. All my gauges come on and my auto meter volt meter is reading a little over 12 volts but still no starting. What could be the problem? I need help quick as I am going to the Corvette show in Houston TX tommorow and need to get this fixed so I can go.
Do the dash lights dim when you turn the key (i.e. battery running low)? My alternator has gone out a few times, acted like this. Does the starter solenoid click? Did you blow any fuses?
I just put an alternator on about 2 months ago which is about 400 miles ago. The dash lights don't dim practically at all. The funny thing is that it started fine after sitting this past week and even after getting gas about 10 miles from my original leaving place. Now that I get home it won't start.
Did they have the VATS (anti-theft system) on the older Vettes?
If so, maybe the chip (resister) on your key is dirty and you triggered the security system. You'll have to clean off the key and try again after 5-10 minutes.
P.S. It may be a good time to swap in the VATS work around module if this is going to be a problem. (It's a resister that similates the key chip when you are starting)
I'm thinking you just lost a cell in your battery...sounds a little crazy, but the same thing happened to my '92...turned out to be exactly that. Try hooking up a fresh one .......
Good Luck
My 85 did that once in a while My problem was my 85 starter.
It use to get heatsoaked. I would turn key the dash would lite up and thats it. No click or anything. The dash lights would not dim. I would usually just keep trying for 10-15 then finally it would start like nothing was ever wrong.
I had to fix that!! Would not want to be in the staging lanes and have that happen.
I fixed it with a new ministarter.
Could be you selinoid. If that does not engage the start may not turn over...So no dimming lights.
Also...Could be the factory 85 alarm. 85 did not have Vats-micor chip in ket but they did have a fatory alarm that engages when the key is out of ing. The door is open and the power door is set to Lock. The secruity lite wil be on steady.
The alarm is now set once the door is closed. I believe the only way to disarm is to use the key in either door. This will disable the alarm. Somtimes my dirvers door gives me trouble. I had to use the pass lock to disable.
No, 85's don't have VATS (thank God). I have removed the factory alarm and had an aftermarket one installed. IT IS NOT that alarm as I have bypassed the starter kill to see if it would work and it didn't do anything. The funny thing is that If I hook it up to another battery it will start (this has been happening for a while) every time. Then it will act normally for a while and then do it again. We are talking about months apart. I had the starter checked out last year when this first happened and the shop said everything was a O.K. Please, keep the sugestions coming as I am checking as much stuff as possible between reading the replies.
How about the battery then. Could have some weak cells. or bad connection. My ground cable was wore out from disconnecting it every time I do mods. Which is often.
I installed a new ground cable.
Just throwing out more ideas. I imagine you have been checking all the basics already
Dennis
I had the same problem in my 1991...drive it and then it gets hot and it won’t start till it is cold again! If that is the case I am going to say it is the STARTER! I would have to agree with---->"BOWTYE8". Like I said if the car starts when it is cold or you can try this! Get some jumper cables and another V8 vehicle and if you jump it and it starts it is most likely the starter! Try that out and let us know!
Heck, It starts when I hook it up to my miata. So, you think it is a bad starter? I hope not as I have just spent $500 on putting in a new rack and pinion, hoses, power stearing pump, coolant hoses, plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, thermastat, and belt!!!! Thought I would get the car in great shape before the trip. Guess not.
Clean your conections and have your battery tested. If it is not that you have ruled out the alarm so my vote would go to the starter. My 85 has the original starter with over 100K.
Also Sounds like a starter...I replaced them several times due to heat soak problems.
I would turn the key and nothing...after it cooled down, it would start again.
I kept a hammer in the car because sometimes if the starter wont turn over,Id get under the side of the car and bang on it with a hammer and it would start the next time.
I think it swells inside from heat and age.
Also, if your starter isnt already shimmed out when you replace it for another one, you may need shims with the new one...I wish i kept the original starter for rebuilding because it didnt need shims...turned it in as a core and the next 3 starters I had replaced under warranty needed shimming and I had problems getting it shimmed properly.I tried every scenario and it was always off a little bit.
Even a new flywheel it did the same thing.
A "pro" tech that i worked with even shimmed it with me and we got it best we could and It would still make that tiny slip noise from being off some. :cuss
I also think the spring inside the solenoids they use on rebuilds are POS's and they swell up and lock in place when hot.
I have a lifetime warranty on the starters but if it fails again,Im going with a mini torque unit.
Just went out there to try and start the car. Well, it started after sitting in front of my appartment for two hours.
A "no start when hot" problem can also be caused by a worn starter enable relay. They only cost about fifteen bucks, so you might want to consider replacing that before you replace the starter. If it doesn't solve the problem you're only out fifteen bucks.
The big waving flag of a clue is that you can start every time with a jump. This tells me that your battery cannot deliver 100+ amps required by the starter motor. Probably an intermittent inter cell connector, or a battery at the end of its life and it does not have any amphour capacity any longer. Measure the battery terminal volts when it can crank the car. It should not fall below 9.0 volts when cranking or the battery is discharged or at the end of its life. If your car sits for long periods , the battery should be charged periodically or the plates will sulfate and this reduces the active plate area and can totally ruin the battery. If you have a battery charger, put a timer on it and set the timer for its minimum daily interval (usually 15 mins) and this will keep your battery at full charge and no sulfating.