newbie observations
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
newbie observations
Been going through my recently purchased 85 Vette. Got a few observations, please feel free to comment:
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
See adjusting here
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568935883-post11.html
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 5
From: Charlotte NC
Been going through my recently purchased 85 Vette. Got a few observations, please feel free to comment:
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
I have to ask.....you measured or are worried about the length of the wheel studs?
And the steering; I seem to have awesome steering, unless the top is off, then I get some shifty handling.
Your tranny issues? Change the oil and filter. Better yet, have it flushed.
Get yourself a FSM for your year.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Been going through my recently purchased 85 Vette. Got a few observations, please feel free to comment:
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
1) The wheel studs on the right front are significantly shorter than on the left front. I think they engage plenty of the lug nut threads, but there is a significant difference. The left ones come to the end of the lug nut, the right are quite recessed.
2) The steering rack seems to have a binding or sticky point at center. It's a very noticeable point of resistance that takes a little effort to turn past either way.
It makes the car feel like it's pulling right when on most roads with a rightward tilt - you would normally turn just a little to the left to compensate, but because of the sticking point, the effort to do so would make you lunge to the left, so you stay just to the right of the sticking point. There's no noise from the pump. I'm thinking the rack, which is presumably as high mile (180k) as the rest of the car, is just worn out - thoughts?
3) How do I troubleshoot the kickdown cable? The car shifts hard and late, which I attributed to just the high mile tranny, but I also wonder if this can be somewhat reduced.
Otherwise it's a joy, burbling down the road - I love V8 exhaust noise. The car allegedly has a rebuilt engine, and it seems to run great, with perhaps a slight tendency to die when cold. I wonder how to troubleshoot the cold idle circuit.
I was initially worried about overheating, but have read here that temps up to 230 are OK. The fan kicks on at about 229 so I reckon it's doing OK.
2) Steering rack. Fluid flush might help.
3) See various above responses.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
If you check the files I sent you under "T" you will find the section on the proper way to set the cable. Easy to do.
about the studs on the front end.....replacements.
Might try to flush the power steering fluid. Or replace the steering rack.
john
about the studs on the front end.....replacements.Might try to flush the power steering fluid. Or replace the steering rack.
john
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks all for the responses, as I get to know this car.
John:
Did you send the file already? I didn't see anything; will PM you again with another email address.
jimg:
Mainly was wondering whether the shorter studs might indicate some specific issue to these cars, vs just aftermarket parts. I figured it was harmless.
rodj:
Yes, I figured they were different studs. No offense intended on the kickdown cable terminology - generically, that is what I would call it on most cars, a throttle-related cable designed to control tranny shifts.
I am thinking the rack will need a R&R. I don't see any points of binding anywhere in the shaft assembly or at the suspension; I bet the rack is just worn at center from years and many miles of wear at that point, where it has spent most of its life. It definitely feels like a mechanical binding effect at that point in its travel only.
John:
Did you send the file already? I didn't see anything; will PM you again with another email address.
jimg:
Mainly was wondering whether the shorter studs might indicate some specific issue to these cars, vs just aftermarket parts. I figured it was harmless.
rodj:
Yes, I figured they were different studs. No offense intended on the kickdown cable terminology - generically, that is what I would call it on most cars, a throttle-related cable designed to control tranny shifts.
I am thinking the rack will need a R&R. I don't see any points of binding anywhere in the shaft assembly or at the suspension; I bet the rack is just worn at center from years and many miles of wear at that point, where it has spent most of its life. It definitely feels like a mechanical binding effect at that point in its travel only.
Last edited by gotmy85; Sep 26, 2009 at 11:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
kickdown cable, detent cable or tv cable, all the same thing and most every one knows what you are talking about no matter which term you use. Get the cable set properly and if it still shifts late & hard I would change the filter & fluid but keep in mind that someone may have put a shift improver kit in and/or played with the governor weights & springs.
I personally do not believe a flush will change the rack one bit, it is hanging up for some reason and I would change it immediately, be sure to get the correct replacement rack. Turn your steering wheel from lock to lock, if it turns two full revolutions or less you have a Z-51 suspension with the quick steering ratio rack. Keep in mind that a car with that kind of mileage, suspension repairs can snowball quickly going from a rack change to worn tie rods and/or worn ball joints to worn out, dried out rubber components.
Welcome to the madness, enjoy your car.
I personally do not believe a flush will change the rack one bit, it is hanging up for some reason and I would change it immediately, be sure to get the correct replacement rack. Turn your steering wheel from lock to lock, if it turns two full revolutions or less you have a Z-51 suspension with the quick steering ratio rack. Keep in mind that a car with that kind of mileage, suspension repairs can snowball quickly going from a rack change to worn tie rods and/or worn ball joints to worn out, dried out rubber components.
Welcome to the madness, enjoy your car.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I am all too familiar with "while you're in there" syndrome from working on everything from my 67 Ford Galaxie to a number of Porsches over the years. I figure on a complete suspension rebuild at some point, but I agree that it has to be the rack causing this behavior. I can feel a series of notches in the rack's travel - I think it is just worn out.
As far as the tranny goes, I figure on a manual trans swap at some point as well. Doing a lot of research on those options currently. I've reset the TV cable with a very slight improvement. I view this car as a platform into which I'll swap a series of upgrades, I can live with the rough trans for now.
The car hobby is indeed madness - but it's a fun disease...
As far as the tranny goes, I figure on a manual trans swap at some point as well. Doing a lot of research on those options currently. I've reset the TV cable with a very slight improvement. I view this car as a platform into which I'll swap a series of upgrades, I can live with the rough trans for now.
The car hobby is indeed madness - but it's a fun disease...
kickdown cable, detent cable or tv cable, all the same thing and most every one knows what you are talking about no matter which term you use. Get the cable set properly and if it still shifts late & hard I would change the filter & fluid but keep in mind that someone may have put a shift improver kit in and/or played with the governor weights & springs.
I personally do not believe a flush will change the rack one bit, it is hanging up for some reason and I would change it immediately, be sure to get the correct replacement rack. Turn your steering wheel from lock to lock, if it turns two full revolutions or less you have a Z-51 suspension with the quick steering ratio rack. Keep in mind that a car with that kind of mileage, suspension repairs can snowball quickly going from a rack change to worn tie rods and/or worn ball joints to worn out, dried out rubber components.
Welcome to the madness, enjoy your car.
I personally do not believe a flush will change the rack one bit, it is hanging up for some reason and I would change it immediately, be sure to get the correct replacement rack. Turn your steering wheel from lock to lock, if it turns two full revolutions or less you have a Z-51 suspension with the quick steering ratio rack. Keep in mind that a car with that kind of mileage, suspension repairs can snowball quickly going from a rack change to worn tie rods and/or worn ball joints to worn out, dried out rubber components.
Welcome to the madness, enjoy your car.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
IMHO
1. The wheel bearing was replaced and included different length studs.
2. Dump and replace the PS fluid with some cheap stuff drive it a few miles and replace with a name brand PS fluid. Maybe some additive IF your feeling lucky.
3. Release the TV cable by pushing the big black button, THen push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. You'll hear the adjustment clicking when you reach the bottom of the pedal travel.
4. Consider getting a good 4 wheel alignment.
Enjoy
1. The wheel bearing was replaced and included different length studs.
2. Dump and replace the PS fluid with some cheap stuff drive it a few miles and replace with a name brand PS fluid. Maybe some additive IF your feeling lucky.
3. Release the TV cable by pushing the big black button, THen push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. You'll hear the adjustment clicking when you reach the bottom of the pedal travel.
4. Consider getting a good 4 wheel alignment.
Enjoy