vidmaster

Hey guys, I don't know much about these cars as I'm an evil ford guy so please bear with me :P My dad was on the way to a Toys for Tots cruise today and was a 1/2 mile away from the meet spot when his air pump seized and the pulley sheared off and almost went through his hood.

The car is registered as a collector and doesn't have to go through emissions here in NJ. Do they make any kind of air pump delete pulley that will just bolt right up in place of the air pump on an 84?

Thanks for any help!

Calderone

Never seen a 84 with air delete
They sell a 85-91 pulley which works but you have to relocate your power steering reservoir,i guess your best shot is to remove the air pump,gut it and put it back.

in-vette-uation

The 84 doesn't need a kit. just remove the pump and get a shorter belt. I did it and it clears fine. I'll look up what size belt you need.

Use an 85" belt

vidmaster

awesome, thanks so much!!!

7thvet

Im sorry but I dont believe you can just take off the air pump & use a shorter belt.
I looked into doing mine & it would not put any tension on the idler pulley.
I will look again but I think Im right.

MIke350

Any idea what size belt you tried? I also run my 84 with out the air pump and a shorther 85 inch belt with out any problems.

qws

You can just remove the pump and use a shorter belt. I've seen it done several times..

in-vette-uation

Guaranteed to work. I've put many miles on mine since. No issues.

vidmaster

thanks guys, 85" belt worked beautifully. We left the smog pump in there without the pulley on it. Can I remove all this junk that's connected to the smog pump? There's like heater hoses, exhaust lines etc going to it. I know on the mustang, I just had like 1 vac line and had to thread a pipe cap on to the exhaust manifold.

There's like a ton of hoses and lines coming off the smog pump though, not sure what to do with all of it and haven't had much time to really take a look at it since I'm tearing down a motor for my car in my spare time

Crepitus

in-vette-uation

You should be able to remove all the plumbing and simply unplug the wiring and zip tie it out of the way when you remove the pump. You can put caps on the one way valves on the exhaust (there are 3 including the pipe from the converter) but you could just leave them since they ARE one way valves.

blackbear10

Anyone have the part number?

vidmaster

Dayco 5060850

79C3tnd

My smog pump just bit the dust. And since I have antique plates I don't need to worry about inspection/emissions. Will removing the pump completely cause any issues at all with check engine light, etc? Is it really that simple? I can just remove the unit and attaching hardware and run a shorter belt?? Seems too good to be true...

ffvetteman

I made an air pump delete for mine since I went through 2 air pumps. Its does not affect the check engine light at all. I have not removed all the lines and plumbing yet and it has been on there for a few years now with no problems.

Jeremy Forsythe

What are you guys using for caps? Can I just pinch them off with vice grips and put some jb weld on the tips?
I've got an 84 and bought the Dayco 85inch belt today, going to do this tonight.

S S0DEN

I did mine last weekend (88 L98), I used two 1/2" Galvanized threaded caps found at Lowes for $1.50 here in Colorado:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_22460-29760-...cap&facetInfo=

No need for thread sealant or anything. I removed those 1 way fittings so I have just the threaded adapter with a cap on it now.

Jeremy Forsythe

So you are leaving the rail on just capping the end? I am going to pull the whole pump, and remove all the pipes, I want to cut the 8 little pencil sized pipes and cap those. Am I going about it wrong?

S S0DEN

I pulled off the plastic valve body with all the hoses out and disconnected the two electrical plugs attached to it and electrical taped over them then zip tied them out of sight.

Attached to that valve body was the two hoses that run to the exhaust manifolds, removed both of those. Then the last line ran down by the water pump and had a little filter on it. I removed that too.

The AIR pump has a hard drawn line that runs under the t-stat housing that connects to that valve body, removed that too.

I removed the hard line that runs from cat under the car and up the passenger side of the vehicle and into the valve body. I capped the cap off by crimping the end with channel locks and using a little muffler weld to seal the opening.

The AIR pump was the hardest part, I removed the pump and pulled the pulley off, removed the rear housing, broke apart the inside wings and removed the two wing assemblies from the pump. Then I greased the bearings and put it all back together.

After running the engine for 2 days, no Check Engine light at all.

I left the lines that plumb into the Exhaust manifolds alone, I just removed the 1 way valve by unscrewing it from the manifold adapter, then installed the Galvi cap.

wilcar

When I removed the pump on my 84 I pulled the exh. manifolds and cut the tubes off and brazed the holes shut.