Alright you guys, I need one of you hardcore guys to tell me the best way to get the tranny out. I'm assuming it's going to be as involved as dropping the front cradle, but I hope I'm wrong. I would look it up in my FSM, but some one stole book 1 while I was staying at the hospital with my daughter. Any help is appreciated!

 

Manual or automatic?

 

Dropping the front cradle? This is the C4 section.

 

year??? Auto or stick??? 4+3??? 6 spd??? You have to help us out with a little info so we can help you!!!

 

I'm assuming this is the 95 lt1 auto?

As usual, you'll probably get some differing opinions on how to do this.

To start, remove the fluid level indicator. Unfasten or remove the bellows between the air filter and the throttle body. Undo the ASR box on the left inner fender and lay it out of the way. (see 1 below)

Get it up in the air - the higher the better. Then remove:

The two underbody braces (at the motor mounts)
The shift cable
The exhaust system up to the cats (see 2 below)
Drain the fluid (see 3 below)
Support the transmission - remove c-beam and driveshaft (mark position)
Allow the transmission tail to tip down some
The catalytic converters (see 4 below)
The starter
The inspection cover
The torque converter bolts (mark position)
The fill tube bolt and free the fill tube (see 5 below)
The cooler lines at the transmission
The electrical connectors to the transmission

If I haven't forgotten anything, it should be about ready to come out. Support the engine and remove the remaining bellhousing bolts. Drop it out.

********
Footnotes
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1 - This step is to eliminate interference when tipping the engine back
2 - Unplug the O2 sensor. If you can break it loose, remove it.
3 - The fluid can be drained first by pumping it out the fill tube.
4 - Use heat to free stubborn nuts
5 - Don't try to completely remove the tube. Let it hang.

 

I will save this for my 95 auto.I have a worn bushing in the back of my transmission,no leak yet just watching it.
Why do you have to support the engine???

 

Because it will tilt back and hit the fire wall (good way to break oil sending units, composite valve covers etc

I use a long (36" half inch drive extension and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter with a swivel socket IOT remove the bell housing bolts.

There's a couple of pics in this thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-in-today.html

 

Thanks for the input so far, it is an Auto. Sorry I forgot to put that, I am just a little flustered though. The owner before had a decent performance transmission in it and it has less than 10,000 miles on it so the fact that it took a dump on me is aggravating.

 

If the tailshaft bushing is worn, the tailshaft can be removed without removing the tranny.

 

I know exactly how you feel.

My 96 was freshly rebuilt when I got it at 100k miles. It died at 110k. I took it out and rebuilt it myself. The guy that was there before me did good work, but he just didn't go far enough. He re-used a "sprag" bearing and it fell apart.

If you're handy with tools, the 4l60e is an easy transmission to work on. You don't need much in the way of specialized tools to do the job. There's a dvd video available that will guide you through the process, and there's plenty of help here if you get stuck.

 

Since I'm thinking of doing a complete rebuild while I have it out, anyone have any recommendations for the rebuild kit to use? I'm thinking of going with one of the Monster in a box kits, but I'm curious if it's worth the money.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...-kit-pics.html

http://www.700r4l60e.com

 

I was looking at this one

LINK

 

I also used Dana (the above link) for the rebuild kit, however I went with the street and strip version. If you go this way select the dual element sprag and get the transgo separator plate, which is an extra. I also replaced the pressure switch which does not come with the kit.

Dana is an easy guy to deal with and he puts a good kit together. He's not a ball of fire (speedwise), however, and it would be good to do your research and have a solid idea of what you need before placing the order.

 

I have two more questions. In my 95 Vette is it a 1 or 2 pc bellhousing and has anyone experience having a sunshell come apart on it?

According to my Chevy dealer I use, the sun shell on these were a weak point because they were tac-welded together so too much power to it would cause it to snap loose and the problem that arises is the same as what I am experiencing:

Transmission tries to engage, but won't move and there is no binding when shifting through the gears.

 

There's a lot of stuff missing from that kit, as listed. You should replace ALL of the bushings and ALL of the torrington bearings. I didn't need to replace any of the solenoids. They can be tested.

 

I would call them up. Ask what cars their 4L60e transmissions are running in, how long are they holding up, ET's, power levels, etc. Also ask for some additional info on the parts in the kit and the short commings of the stock GM 4L60e. Then call Dana at Probuilt and ask the same questions. I think I know which one you'll choose.

 

One piece. The sunshell breaks, or strips out. When that happens you will lose reverse, second, and fourth.

 

You will also need a 24" extension for your socket wrench with a 14mm swivel socket (not a swivel with socket attached) to get the bolts off the housing to engine area.

I just did mine and it was quite the job for a first timer. Good luck with yours. Ask me any questions you'd like. Mine was a 95 4L60E too.

And oh yeah....pictures, pictures, pictures before you touch ANYTHING.

 

So if it was the sunshell I could theoretically drop it into low gear and the tranny would still allow the car to move, correct?