When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently bought a 1985 Corvette that has been sitting for about 4 years. It had some pack rat damage to the wiring. Anyhow, I have the car running really strong, but have a problem. Originally, the SES light would come on with a 43 as soon as I started the car. I checked the Knock sensor connector, and it was damaged, so I replaced it. Now, the SES does not come on when I start the car. If I romp on it, I get like a 1 or 2 second ping from the motor, then the SES light comes on. After the first ping, it does'nt ping again until the car is shut off and restarted. Then I get a code 43 and a 54 (fuel pump low voltage.) The weird thing is that I can eliminate the 54 depending on how I move the KS connector; it seems to react to interference around the connector. After the SES comes on, I don't notice a dropoff in performance like the timing is being retarded.
Has anyone seen this scenario before? I don't want to start the slow death of randomly replacing parts.
I recently bought a 1985 Corvette that has been sitting for about 4 years. It had some pack rat damage to the wiring. Anyhow, I have the car running really strong, but have a problem. Originally, the SES light would come on with a 43 as soon as I started the car. I checked the Knock sensor connector, and it was damaged, so I replaced it. Now, the SES does not come on when I start the car. If I romp on it, I get like a 1 or 2 second ping from the motor, then the SES light comes on. After the first ping, it does'nt ping again until the car is shut off and restarted. Then I get a code 43 and a 54 (fuel pump low voltage.) The weird thing is that I can eliminate the 54 depending on how I move the KS connector; it seems to react to interference around the connector. After the SES comes on, I don't notice a dropoff in performance like the timing is being retarded.
Has anyone seen this scenario before? I don't want to start the slow death of randomly replacing parts.
You need to get a factory shop manual or another book that has the trouble codes with a diagnostic flow chart. This will guide you in checking the wiring (in case a rat chewed a wire in two) and the ESC module. I would start with code 43 first and once that is gone see if code 54 goes away. There shouldn't be a link between the two, but you never know. Grounds are critical in our vettes and a bad ground connection can do goofy things.