Removing Half Shafts
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Removing Half Shafts
I am in the process of installing new rear brakes on my '92 including the left rear wheel bearing assembly. I thought as long as I have the car on jack stands now would be a good time to install new U-joints on the half shafts. I was wondering what do I need to do to remove the half shafts; is there anything I need to do before removing the clamps on the U-joints? Thanks for your help!
Bernie
Bernie
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Actually, no....
Take the four straps loose, then sorta pry the wheel assembly outward and the shaft will be able to be pulled downward. Don't be frightened to pry a bit to get the hub to move.
Some take off some of the suspension, but I've found that it comes out the same either way. But if you feel better remove the spring and that bar that hooks the D36...whatever it is called. Just those two components to the rear is all that is needed. Don't mess with the Dog bones in the front.
One thing that I will tell you. You need long socket extensions (I use three hooked together) to reach in all the way from the wheel well to those inside straps. So you are sitting outside where the rear wheel usually sits, and you are reaching all the way into where those inner straps are and working from that point. This by far is the best method for getting to those bolts.
The Hub side, you'll have to get on your back. If you have a friend nearby. Have them get inside the car and hold the brake will you break loose the bolts. Do all 8 and then let your friend off the hook while you finish removing the bolts. It goes pretty fast this way. and you find that you can use your Cordless Drill to twist those things out after they are broken loose.
Take the four straps loose, then sorta pry the wheel assembly outward and the shaft will be able to be pulled downward. Don't be frightened to pry a bit to get the hub to move.
Some take off some of the suspension, but I've found that it comes out the same either way. But if you feel better remove the spring and that bar that hooks the D36...whatever it is called. Just those two components to the rear is all that is needed. Don't mess with the Dog bones in the front.
One thing that I will tell you. You need long socket extensions (I use three hooked together) to reach in all the way from the wheel well to those inside straps. So you are sitting outside where the rear wheel usually sits, and you are reaching all the way into where those inner straps are and working from that point. This by far is the best method for getting to those bolts.
The Hub side, you'll have to get on your back. If you have a friend nearby. Have them get inside the car and hold the brake will you break loose the bolts. Do all 8 and then let your friend off the hook while you finish removing the bolts. It goes pretty fast this way. and you find that you can use your Cordless Drill to twist those things out after they are broken loose.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
One side is an "Evening" thing if you feel industrious between now and then.
Another thing people get stumped with is the u-joint removal once the shaft is out.
I took mine out in the drive and scrubbed them clean as soon as got them out. The u-joint is steal and the shaft yoke is aluminum. The two will be stuck together pretty well. This is one of those "bigger" hammer moments. Support the bottom of yoke with something and hit the top part with an old socket or punch (if you have the right size)....and to get it to budge, you may need to put a little "umph" into that first whack. Once it breaks loose then the 2nd and maybe 3rd hit is all it will take to finish up. It moves easily once it breaks free. The New one will go into place quite easily as well. It's all about the two different metals bonding over time.
The reason I noted this, I've spend time in my youth hammering on u-joints. destroying some old socket in the process......these...they seem to come quite easily once you get that first budge.
Going back together is just as easy as coming out.
I will say this....I think doing both in an evening would be quite industrious. So unless you wanna do one this evening and then get dirty all over again Tomorrow eve.....maybe waiting till Saturday is better. All ones opinion...
Another thing people get stumped with is the u-joint removal once the shaft is out.
I took mine out in the drive and scrubbed them clean as soon as got them out. The u-joint is steal and the shaft yoke is aluminum. The two will be stuck together pretty well. This is one of those "bigger" hammer moments. Support the bottom of yoke with something and hit the top part with an old socket or punch (if you have the right size)....and to get it to budge, you may need to put a little "umph" into that first whack. Once it breaks loose then the 2nd and maybe 3rd hit is all it will take to finish up. It moves easily once it breaks free. The New one will go into place quite easily as well. It's all about the two different metals bonding over time.
The reason I noted this, I've spend time in my youth hammering on u-joints. destroying some old socket in the process......these...they seem to come quite easily once you get that first budge.
Going back together is just as easy as coming out.
I will say this....I think doing both in an evening would be quite industrious. So unless you wanna do one this evening and then get dirty all over again Tomorrow eve.....maybe waiting till Saturday is better. All ones opinion...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I have changed all the u-joints on the C3 1979 Vette I had. A lot easier than the C4. I used a fine emory cloth on the half shaft bores which helped with the installation. I will try to pull the halfshaft your way 1st and remove the parts listed only if I have to.
Thanks again for your help! Great write-up in your PM!
Bernie
Thanks again for your help! Great write-up in your PM!
Bernie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 83
From: Everyone needs something to believe in, I believe I'll have another beer. Wisconsin
mate
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Rodjs' write up is actually the one I looked at first. I was going through and starting to remove all that stuff and score the camber location etc.....
CentralCoaster told me to just pry outward on the hub.....it worked without removing all those components. Rodj is more thorough and detailed....mine is the lazy man method.
CentralCoaster told me to just pry outward on the hub.....it worked without removing all those components. Rodj is more thorough and detailed....mine is the lazy man method.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
It's not much more work to disconnect the spring bolt and tierod; gives much more movement in the spindle .If you drop the outer end of the chamber arm you don't have to worry about marking the inner end
