'90 window switch question...
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
'90 window switch question...
What's the deal with '90 window switches? Everyone sells older and newer, but no-such-critter for '90. 
The driver's side window operates very slowly, and after a 2 or 3 trips up and down, it won't go up at all. I can remove the switch and completely disassemble it to clean the actual switch contacts (black carbon film) and it will work another 2 or 3 times. That gets a little old.
My particular '90 is a "salvage" car... hit on drivers side many years ago. I am beginning to suspect that the door might be from a newer model because the window switch looks identical to the ones I see for sale for 92-96, at least from the pictures available at places like Eckler's.
I don't want to drop north of $200 for one of these switches and find out it wont work in a '90. Hence my question: Does anyone know if the original '90 driver's side window swich assembly looks different than the '92-'96?
The driver's side window operates very slowly, and after a 2 or 3 trips up and down, it won't go up at all. I can remove the switch and completely disassemble it to clean the actual switch contacts (black carbon film) and it will work another 2 or 3 times. That gets a little old.
My particular '90 is a "salvage" car... hit on drivers side many years ago. I am beginning to suspect that the door might be from a newer model because the window switch looks identical to the ones I see for sale for 92-96, at least from the pictures available at places like Eckler's.
I don't want to drop north of $200 for one of these switches and find out it wont work in a '90. Hence my question: Does anyone know if the original '90 driver's side window swich assembly looks different than the '92-'96?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
The only difference for the driverside dual switches between a 90-91 and 93-96 is the color of the switches. You can usually find used switches on E-bay for around $40.00.
Black for 93-96
Gray for 90-91
Black for 93-96
Gray for 90-91
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 175
Likes: 1
From: Cave Creek Arizona
Sounds more like your window lift motor is shot. The resistance is probably affecting the switch contacts.
You can temporarily bypass the switch using a jumper or generic switch to test the motor.
I suspect that you replace the window lift motor and you switch problems go away.
You can temporarily bypass the switch using a jumper or generic switch to test the motor.
I suspect that you replace the window lift motor and you switch problems go away.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 13
From: turn 12 at Road America or TX
The motor replacement is a big job - you have to drill out all the spot welds, replace the motor and weld it all back again. Reason = the motor is held in place with three rivets and you can only get to two of them to replace. The third one requiresthhe full disassembly. If you are OK with just two out of three mounting screws, go for it. I opted for replacing the complete assembly instead because I really did not want to tear that door apart again.
BTW, the motor is common and about 50 bucks at AutoZone. The assy is about $280.
BTW, the motor is common and about 50 bucks at AutoZone. The assy is about $280.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I had suspected the motor at first too. My brother-in-law (bought the car from him) told me he replaced the motor but it still ran slowly.
Certainly worth jumping the contacts to see what happens. If the window goes up and down faster, then it's definitely something in the switch. If not, then the motor is the problem.
Another symptom that leans toward the motor being bad is that the passenger side works fine from the driver's side switch set. Not a guarantee that the switch is OK, but seems more likely the motor.
Interesting about the switch colors for the change of vintage. The plastic switch blade 'covers' should be interchangable anyway. The colored handles just pull off the acutal switch beneath... I've had to do that many times to disassemble the switch. I could just re-use the originals on a new switch. If, for some reason, they don't have the same slot dimensions, I could live with the wrong color for the sake of a fully functional window.
Certainly worth jumping the contacts to see what happens. If the window goes up and down faster, then it's definitely something in the switch. If not, then the motor is the problem.
Another symptom that leans toward the motor being bad is that the passenger side works fine from the driver's side switch set. Not a guarantee that the switch is OK, but seems more likely the motor.
Interesting about the switch colors for the change of vintage. The plastic switch blade 'covers' should be interchangable anyway. The colored handles just pull off the acutal switch beneath... I've had to do that many times to disassemble the switch. I could just re-use the originals on a new switch. If, for some reason, they don't have the same slot dimensions, I could live with the wrong color for the sake of a fully functional window.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 13
From: turn 12 at Road America or TX
Something in the window mechanism is bound up or not adjusted correctly. If you had a bad switch, the switch would get hot right now or not work at all.
My best guess = tear the door down and take a good look at brother-in-laws repair job.
My best guess = tear the door down and take a good look at brother-in-laws repair job.
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: LA California
Do any of you who have disassembled the driver's side power window switch like these have any tips or tricks to get thing apart? I hesitate to start bending and pulling until I know what I'm doing. I'd like to fix the thing, not break it.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 403
Likes: 15
From: Clarksville Tennessee
The toggle covers pop off,
then the clips near the bottom need pried up as you separate the switch housing. Once separated, be careful because the wires to the lights will still be connected. Unscrew the switches, pop them open at the clips, and that should give you access to the contacts. Scrape/file/sand/clean the contact points. Make sure the "toggle fingers" are in place, reverse for reassembly.
A bit complicated, maybe, but a whole lot better than shelling out the big bucks for a new switch when all you need to do is clean the contact points.
A bit complicated, maybe, but a whole lot better than shelling out the big bucks for a new switch when all you need to do is clean the contact points.
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