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95 auto, 90,000 miles. New waterpump, opti, coil, ignition module, car keeps dying and spitting out code 16. Can someone help because I'm at a loss.
Ric
a week and a half ago when the car just stopped I got codes 16, 21, and 23. I replaced ICM, TPS, and intake temp sensor. All codes were gone took the car out on a few short rides and no codes. On the 5th time out it died again and is coming up with 16. If I clear the code I can restarted the car. Is it possible that it's a plug wire? I also want to note that a spark plug was lose, not out just loose. Tightened it up and checked every plug and wire, checked all connectors and I'm at a loss. I don't have the money to put it in the shop and anyones help would be appreciated. I have waited 20 years for a vette and this is really dissapointing.
Last edited by slikrik030; Nov 1, 2009 at 09:52 AM.
Did you check to make sure the opti was fully seated, lock-tight the rotor screws????
Opti was done back in March. I'm assuming it was all done the right way because I had it done by a mechanic familiar with this set up. Code 16 is the only code coming up. I thought that it may have been the coil or ignition module but those were replaced when I did the tuneup. Is it possible the wire going from the coil to the opti is bad?? I think that's the only original wire. I checked all connections and seem good and tight. Any suggestions where I can start or should it go in the shop?? It sux because ran all summer like a champ!!!
Code 16 is an opti code. Check to make sure the opti's wire harness is not corroded and making good contact.
I know it's an opti code it's distributor low pulse. I've checked everything I could think of and there are so many new parts. I'm at a total loss right now. When this started a week or so ago I got a few codes like the intake temp sensor and throttle sensor and I replaced them and cleared codes thought it was fine and car stopped running and popped code 16 and I don't know what I should do. Any advice is great. BTW car ran awesome all summer!
95 auto, 90,000 miles. New waterpump, opti, coil, ignition module, car keeps dying and spitting out code 16. Can someone help because I'm at a loss.
Rick
I used a Accel opti-- lasted roughly a year ?? and for sure less then 10K miles. The rotor worked loose and allowed the opti trigger wheel to chew up the optical decoder. This time i went w/OEM and (as someone else stated) also replaced the opti harness. Not saying that's your problem, but there's some "opti junk" on the market these days. Mine had a high resolution code.
I used a Accel opti-- lasted roughly a year ?? and for sure less then 10K miles. The rotor worked loose and allowed the opti trigger wheel to chew up the optical decoder. This time i went w/OEM and (as someone else stated) also replaced the opti harness. Not saying that's your problem, but there's some "opti junk" on the market these days. Mine had a high resolution code.
My opti was replaced with OEM. What is the low pulse side. The information I found on my own doesn't really make sense and with all the new parts, this definately doesn't make sense.
I used a Accel opti-- lasted roughly a year ?? and for sure less then 10K miles. The rotor worked loose and allowed the opti trigger wheel to chew up the optical decoder. This time i went w/OEM and (as someone else stated) also replaced the opti harness. Not saying that's your problem, but there's some "opti junk" on the market these days. Mine had a high resolution code.
I have the same problem dtc36 on my 1993. Its an msd unit with 650 miles on it. I have yet to take it off the car an send it back to msd.It does have 1yr guarantee. Quality is unknown with the loss of U.S. manufacturing base. Tim
I have the same problem dtc36 on my 1993. Its an msd unit with 650 miles on it. I have yet to take it off the car an send it back to msd.It does have 1yr guarantee. Quality is unknown with the loss of U.S. manufacturing base. Tim
When my opti went back in March I did get DTC 36. I replaced with OEM and waterpump and plugs and odds and ends. This is just so baffling because it's been running awesome and I don't have the money to put in the shop. I'm hoping that someone may have the answer of what I need to do.
My opti was replaced with OEM. What is the low pulse side. The information I found on my own doesn't really make sense and with all the new parts, this definately doesn't make sense.
The opti dist has 4 different spots on the trigger wheel which the PCM uses to know which cylinder is coming up in the firing order. This is the low resolution (pulse) signal.
The opti also has on the same "wheel" 360 small spots and/or cuts to "know" where exactly the piston is in it's travel to provide precise/accurate spark timing. This is the high resolution (pulse) signal.
The opti dist has 4 different spots on the trigger wheel which the PCM uses to know which cylinder is coming up in the firing order. This is the low resolution (pulse) signal.
The opti also has on the same "wheel" 360 small spots and/or cuts to "know" where exactly the piston is in it's travel to provide precise/accurate spark timing. This is the high resolution (pulse) signal.
So does this mean I need to replace the Opti again??? This is really going to suck if this is the case.
When my opti went back in March I did get DTC 36. I replaced with OEM and waterpump and plugs and odds and ends. This is just so baffling because it's been running awesome and I don't have the money to put in the shop. I'm hoping that someone may have the answer of what I need to do.
I hate to say if the car is stalling soner than later it will just crank no start.Did you get it wet recently,that will kill an opit.look for anitfreeze dripping any where around the front of the motor. Tim
So does this mean I need to replace the Opti again??? This is really going to suck if this is the case.
There is a procedure in the FSM to check the signals w/VOM at the PCM for this code. Could be the opti---wiring between opti and PCM ----or PCM itself. I'd check the "opti harness" connectors very carefully and check each wire w/ohm meter. However if I was to make a online "guess" the opti itself would be my first guess. JMO
I hate to say if the car is stalling soner than later it will just crank no start.Did you get it wet recently,that will kill an opit.look for anitfreeze dripping any where around the front of the motor. Tim
My opti was brand new March. I haven't been leaking anything under the hood. The reason my opti went was because the waterpump went 6 months earlier. The weird thing is when the car just stopped running I popped codes for ICM, TPS, and a oxygen sensor, never popped codes for the opti (DTC16) until everything was replaced and then the code 16 popped. I'm at a loss. Is there any possible way this could be a spark plug wire or something really stupid?? I just find it hard to believe an opti 6 months old would just go and it's an OEM opti.
just to put this out there for you, I replaced my bad opti in may. I started getting codes 16 in june. soon there after the car quit running and I had to replaced the opti again. Both where oem, the orginal one I took out had 120,00 mile on it. The first new one had 350 at best. So yes it is very possible that the new opti is crap. Good luck