screamin_conure

Hi all,

I'm curious to know if anyone out there in 'Vette-land has ever successfully completed the procedure on page 5E1-123 of book 1 of the 1992 FSM, "Adjustment Procedure - Adjuster Assembly - Accelerator and Cruise Control Cables".

I attempted this procedure today on my '92 LT1 A4, and I'm not sure about how it went. First, the symptoms that my car has that prompted me to attempt this are a somewhat low/fluctuating idle (since the throtte cable is integrated with the whole ASR assembly, it kinda' makes sense), and a late, hard 1-2 shift (POTENTIAL out of whack TV cable). Since the procedure looks extremely simple, I figured what the heck, might as well give a try. So I grabbed my Craftsman "click-type" torque wrench, an 1/8 drill bit, and headed for the garage.

I removed the ASR cover. Removed the cam cover (it just slides right off). Released the tab on the TV cable (it was lying flat against the cable sheath and I flicked it up to where it was now 90 degrees to the sheath in the open position). Pressed the tabs on both the accelerator pedal cable and the throttle cable. Unclipped the cruise control cable from its' attachment point underneath the ECM. Slid my drill bit into the holes that line up at the top of each cam, but without touching the ASR gear. Gently turned the ASR assembly 1/8th of a turn and inserted my torque wrench, set for 71 lb.-ft. of torque, into the 1/4" opening in the side of the first cam and began slowly applying pressure to the handle of the torque wrench swinging it toward the front of the car. The wrench simply laid down completely. At no time did I encounter any resistance, and at no time did I feel the familiar click of my torque wrench having reached its set torque position. I swung the wrench back up, removed it, grabbed the end of the drill bit and using my hand only, discovered that I could rotate the entire ASR cam assembly the full lenght of its' travel. I did this several times and I can see all of the cables sliding back and forth in their sheaths, and could even watch the throttle assmebly on the throttle body moving back and forth from closed to W.O.T. This really doesn't seem right. I can say that with the tab released on the TV cable, I can grab the sheath on either side of the adjustor with my hands and pull in opposite directions and I can feel lots of resistance there. The cable will return to it's "fully extended" position pretty much on its own too. After fiddling with it a bit more, I went ahead and finished the procedure by rocking the ASR cam assembly about half way back through it's travel and set the TV cable tab back in the down position, thinking this might give me an approximation of where it should be. I pressed the accelerator pedal hard to the floor to set throttle cables, reattached the cruise cable, and buttoned everything back up.

There's NO WAY that ASR assembly can withstand a full 71 lb.-ft. of torque without something getting destroyed. Unfortunately, I'm not able to road test the car for about another week, while the town I live in pours me a new driveway apron and corrects a water main issue in front of my house. I started the car and did about 8 - 10 minutes of back-and-forth in my driveway, allowing the coolant and oil to come up to temperature (the throttle cable adjustment didn't seem to correct the idle issue ), and everything seemed normal there, but I won't know what the shifting situation is like for a few more days.

So, my completely uneducated guess is that the resistance that SHOULD be there comes from the TV cable and that the reason that it's NOT there is because something isn't right on the transmission end of the TV cable. Can any '92 ASR/700R4 experts out there shed a little light?

Thanks in advance and sorry for being so long-winded.

Ron

toptechx6

You'd better read it again, the spec is INCH lbs, not foot lbs.

Road Agent

Don't forget the 1/8 in. (If I remember the size correctly) drill bit!

92ZR1WANNABE

Inch lbs it is. It took many a tries to get mine setup properly. Still not sure if it was operator error or the fact that the FSM is clear as mud.


Also , you should have met some resistance when trying to tighten the ASR module cam. So something may be amiss here.

Does your ASR work at all ? (When you romp the gas does the light flash , and the gas pedal push back toward you?)

Road Agent

My bad! After I read again I seen you got that.

screamin_conure

Correct. My mistake on the inch-lb. / foot-lb. nomenclature. My wrench is an inch-lb. wrench (Craftsman Microtork) and still, set at 71 inch-lb.s, it's WAY too much for the ASR cam assembly. It simply rolls the whole thing backward (forward?) and pulls the throttle pretty much wide open. I feel no clicking or release on the wrench at all. It's a relatively new wrench (less than three months old) and I've used it for other applications and it has worked fine, so I don't think it's the wrench.

As for whether my ASR works, no I do not believe that it does. I did the paperclip trick and I do have a code H65 showing which according to the FSM, indicates an "Adjuster Assembly Fault". The manual also states that with this code set, ASR functionality will be disabled for the remainder of the ignition cycle and the Service ASR lamp will light. My lamp is lit (I have a small piece of electrical tape over it so as not to have it be a distraction). As far as I'm concerned, I really don't care if my ASR system works. Why GM felt compelled to build a car as sleek and performance oriented as the Corvette, equip it with a 300 HP engine, and then tack on a gadget to take over for the driver when they get themsleves in trouble, well, I guess that's a topic for another post. Granted, they give you a button to override the whole system, but still...

Anyway, from what I can gather, the whole cam assembly is simply a passive combination of pulleys that actuate various cables to operate the throttle and transmission throttle valve under normal driving conditions and only becomes "active" when it senses an "ASR event" (spinning rear tires). I just want to make sure that my throttle valve cable is properly set so as to eliminate that possible cause from the hard/late 1-2 shift, and I don't believe that my inoperable ASR should have any affect on that. By all means, correct me if I'm wrong about this because this is my first 'Vette and I know I still have a lot to learn.

Thanks again for all of the fast replies! This is a GREAT forum!!

toptechx6

I've made the same adjustment on my 93 several times with no difficulty using a similar click type torque wrench, I do recall however that the wrench would rotate the cam all the way forward to the limit of available travel before clicking, at that point I held the cam in position by hand so I could ratchet the wrench backward to take another swing, the wrench then clicked on the second swing to indicate it had reached the set value.
My servo is functional, so it is possible that a damaged one would behave differently, if that is the case I would pick up a replacement on Ebay, good luck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

screamin_conure

WOW! A second swing with the wrench, huh?

I do have to say, it seems like making another swing with the wrench would be putting an awful lot of strain on the throttle cable in particular, because it is at the very end of its travel after the first swing. I'll have to go back and take a second look at it.

Thanks again for the info toptechx6!!

Ron

screamin_conure

Well toptech, you were right. I just came in from doing the procedure again, following the FSM explicitly, and on the second swing I felt my torque wrench "give" and set the TV cable tab right at that point. I think the first time I freaked out a little when I heard the adjuster start clicking. I thought I was breaking something. It's actually a very simply procedure, now that I've figured it out.

Sure wish I could drive the doggone thing. The city still has the end of my driveway blocked off!

screamin_conure

For those who may be interested, I finally had a chance to get it out on the road this past weekend and I'm happy to say that the trans is now shifting from 1-2 right where I believe it should be (around 12 - 15 mph). MUCH nicer! MUCH more pleasant to drive!!

Now, if I can just figure out this sometimes-high/sometimes-low idle situation, I'll have one sweet runnin' 'Vette!!!

steve40th

Not to throw a wrench in it, but cant you just take the pan off, and visually do the TV valve adjustment. It basically needs to barely be touching the valve, correct.

screamin_conure

I would imagine you COULD, but the FSM procedure calls for performing it via the ASR assembly.

steve40th

I think I will make another thread on this. I know what the FSM's say, but when you modify a car, and raise the idle for bigger cam or whatever, things change.
So, end result is to get the throttle valve to the point where the cable is just barely touching the tv valve, so when you give it gas, the valve starts to move in to start the increase the fluid pressure.