Start Up Problem - '93 Coupe
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Start Up Problem - '93 Coupe
I have a '93 Coupe with a 6-speed manual.
I have had a problem with it starting up for about the last two years. It's gotten so bad I can't even drive it somewhere that I have to stop because there's about a 25% chance when I jump back in, it won't start.
Here's what happens.
Sometimes when I open the door there are no lights that come on inside the vehicle. When that happens, I can have a fully charged battery, but I will get nothing when I turn the key. It really is like trying to start the car with no battery.
Other times, I can open the door. The lights come on, but when I close the door and turn the key I will still get nothing.
I used to have a problem with the battery terminals being corroded, but this is not the case at present.
I've guesses electrical short, but I don't have any suggestions, where to start.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Jon
I have had a problem with it starting up for about the last two years. It's gotten so bad I can't even drive it somewhere that I have to stop because there's about a 25% chance when I jump back in, it won't start.
Here's what happens.
Sometimes when I open the door there are no lights that come on inside the vehicle. When that happens, I can have a fully charged battery, but I will get nothing when I turn the key. It really is like trying to start the car with no battery.
Other times, I can open the door. The lights come on, but when I close the door and turn the key I will still get nothing.
I used to have a problem with the battery terminals being corroded, but this is not the case at present.
I've guesses electrical short, but I don't have any suggestions, where to start.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Jon
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 5
From: Charlotte NC
Check the door ajar switches. Specifically on the drivers side. These are well known to stick and cause these intermittent troubles. Try loosening and retightening the 2 screws holing the switch. DO NOT remove the screws...you'll spend the next half hour cussing me and GM out!
You can also pull the plunger out gently. When you close the door it'll reseat the plunger. I'm pretty sure I used some WD-40 on the switch as well.
You can also pull the plunger out gently. When you close the door it'll reseat the plunger. I'm pretty sure I used some WD-40 on the switch as well.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
I agree with previous post/member -- likely the problem is your door ajar switches.
However, DO NOT use WD40 or any other lubricant other than vaseline. Reason is it will swell the plastic and cause sticking.
These door ajar switches are very critical to both the PKE system and the Alarm system. So, likely your problem is that the switch(s) are not telling the CCM the door has been opened, which can cause all sorts of odd problems (e.g. hatch popping, alarm going off, your lights not lighting, radio staying on for 15 minutes after door open, etc).
Further, the switches fail in 4 different ways -- electrically fail to close the circuit (when the door is open), electrically fail to open the circuit (when door is closed -- e.g. water/rust intrusion), or stick closed (failing to pop out when the door is opened), or their self-adjusting 'nose' gets pushed in too far, failing to open the circuit when the door is closed.
BTW< good news -- the switches can be replaced right through their hole, without having to take the door apart at all.
Also, the CCM has a test ability to confirm the switches operation. If you have FSM, take a look, it shows how to test many of the CCM inputs.
However, DO NOT use WD40 or any other lubricant other than vaseline. Reason is it will swell the plastic and cause sticking.
These door ajar switches are very critical to both the PKE system and the Alarm system. So, likely your problem is that the switch(s) are not telling the CCM the door has been opened, which can cause all sorts of odd problems (e.g. hatch popping, alarm going off, your lights not lighting, radio staying on for 15 minutes after door open, etc).
Further, the switches fail in 4 different ways -- electrically fail to close the circuit (when the door is open), electrically fail to open the circuit (when door is closed -- e.g. water/rust intrusion), or stick closed (failing to pop out when the door is opened), or their self-adjusting 'nose' gets pushed in too far, failing to open the circuit when the door is closed.
BTW< good news -- the switches can be replaced right through their hole, without having to take the door apart at all.
Also, the CCM has a test ability to confirm the switches operation. If you have FSM, take a look, it shows how to test many of the CCM inputs.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 5
From: Charlotte NC
FSM's (Field Service Manuals) are invaluable for troubleshooting or just plain good reading when you're curious about the various oddities of these cars.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...Q5fAccessories
Not the best condition, but a decent price FWIW.
