Is an edelbrock intake manifold worth the cost? I havent seen any claims on HP. I just pulled my motor and am trying to figure the parts I want to use to put it back together. Is an LT-4 intake worth any gains or should I just clean up my stock and open it to except a 52 MM TB ?

My biggest delima is stock or 383 stroke! I want to do this on a budget and plan on changing to 3:08 gears and higher stall tourqe converter also. I am afraid I will be way over budget if I aint careful, I know we have all been there it never fails>

Oh I am shooting for at least 400HP below 6,000 rpm. Would the LT-4 hot cam, 195 heads and good valve train, 52MM TB, headers,and a few other minor misc. upgrades get me there?

 

It's no better than stock.

 

Most people get the stock intake ported.

 

You already have the OEM intake, with the $500+ you can get it ported but, then, your heads must match the intake port and if you go there you should get a valve job however, it just never stops there

You let the motivation going and you'll end up with a new rebuild engine

 

edelbrock LT1 intake no, not worth it alone.

edelbrock LT4 intake w/ ported AFR eliminator? 195 (whatever their new heads are) heads for an LT4, yes then a matching edelbrock LT4 'airgap' intake is worth it.

Stay around 350 and some change cu. inches. Strokers dont rev as high, and rarely give any extra HP, just some extra TQ and worse fuel economy.

Dont go crazy on the compression ratio (app. 9.5:1), dont go crazy on the cam either (dont want your exhaust to stink you out of the car), save the money on that expensive 'stroker' crank and put it towards a supercharger system one day you can install when funds permit.

You will be unstoppable then.

 

Compression on a stock LT1 is around 10.5:1. Even GM had more confidence in the reverse flow cooling than you seem to have. I've heard of guys running over 12:1 on pump gas with the LT1 setup. Mine is about 11.3:1, runs great on 92 or 93 octane.

Now about those strokers... I am certainly not an expert on big cube LTx engines, I'm still running a stock bottom end on mine, but I do have what I believe to be a basic understanding. The old saying "there's no replacement for displacement" is mostly true. Your claim about increasing the torque and not the horsepower is also somewhat true, given you leave everything else exactly the same. However, and this ties in with your camshaft selection advice too, a stroker has more volume inside the chamber to fill, so most of the time a cam with the right duration for a 350 will usually not be right for a 383. Likewise, a cam meant for a big cube stroker with high flowing heads will usually be overkill in a stock displacement engine using stock heads. Generally speaking, a 396 LT1 with a 240/250 duration cam (.050) will rev a LOT higher than a 350 with a 205/210 (.050) cam, make a LOT more torque, and make a LOT more horsepower. So the blanket statement "Strokers dont rev as high, and rarely give any extra HP, just some extra TQ and worse fuel economy" is not really true.

The camshaft advice is sound. (no pun intended) I usually subscribe to the logic that if big is good, bigger is better, but in the case of camshafts that's absolutely not correct. For a stockish 350 LTx, most guys pick a cam around 215-230/225-240. My personal opinion is that the CC306 (230/244) is too much cam for a stock 350, but I've heard of guys using them. I also feel like the LT4 hotcam (218/228) is too small, but it's tough to argue with Jonecap (and friends) on that one...

But to answer the OP, those parts should get you in the 400hp range. You could do away with the 52mm throttle body to save a buck, most guys will say you won't need it at that level. I'm still using the stock one and my engine moves about as much air as yours will. Biggest difference will be those heads. I assume you're talking about the AFR 195 heads? That's what's on my wish list, too. But my "budget committee" didn't approve them. Yet.

You got a 1/4 mile performance goal in mind? Don't be scared of lower gear ratios (higher numbers), like 3.5x:1 or 3.7x:1. It's worth researching before you buy to make sure you're getting what you really want. And while you're talking gears, if you plan on launching really hard, and if it's in the budget, you'd be wise to swap to a D44. I didn't, but I always have that nagging thought when I'm watching the tree go down, "what if..." I think I'm relatively safe with my 1.72 60 foot time, but seems like 1.6x is where the D36 starts breaking.

Anyway, there are plenty of great threads on here to help guide you. My suggestion is read as many of them as you can find (especially Weavvet's) and then start your own thread and keep everyone up to date on your progress. That way when you ask for help or advice, they won't have to ask you a thousand questions to figure out where you're at.

And talk to Pete K about that new torque converter, he's really knowledgeable, friendly, and will make sure you get what you need. And I couldn't find anyone to beat his price except those ebay ads I don't trust.

 

I have struggled with the same issues with my build. I have AFR 195's with 64cc chambers. Using stock crank, lightweight 5.7" rods with floating wrist pin and SLP flattops. This should give me about 10.5 compression. When the heads come in I will decide which intake to use, either stock LT1 or the eldebrock LT4 air gap. I have both. Definitley staying with the stock TB. I am using a custom ground bullet cam. I cannot recall the specs. I will be using 1.6 roller rockers. Hoping for something close to 400hp at the wheels.
Could have gone with the 383 for about the same money. I wanted a higher rev engine. I have a MSD opti that will take 6500 rpm.
Hope this helps.
93cruiser

 

I was able to find a 7107 for 300 off ebay, brand new in the box. for that price, even if the performance isn't great it will give the engine something different. Going off to have it powder coated black.

 

FAST CHEAP RELIABLE choose two, should be every gearheads mantra.....words of wisdom uttered prior to starting any speed project....

Stock intake will fit a 52 MM TB without porting, however, without heads/cam the 48mm is just fine. My stock intake was ported by AI for way less than the 500 bones posted . IMO for a budget build go for AI 190s with one of their smaller cams a you will be over 400CHP
or go large blow your budget with AI 200s, big AI cam, supporting mods , yank or vig converter, D44 with 3.45s...........while your in there don't forget to beef up the trannsmision


To see where I'm going with this post (check my sig and posts I know about the oh buy the ways if you start down the slippery path)


My factory intake


355 shortblock with pistons .005 in the hole for 12.1:1 compression runs great on pump gas (usually 93 octane) so don't fall for the 9.5:1 compression advice (using .027 head gasket IOT tighten up the quench)



My current engine has survived a couple of years of worth of shifting at 6800 plus rpm at WOT


However, my 2800 stall converter didn't so I now have a vig 3500 and a rebuilt 4l60e

My car won't hook on the street, even with great tires...so I replaced most of the rear suspension IOT help with traction....however, car still won't hook....I'm thinking about coilovers and even bigger tires.....I know that it will never end...however, I have a decent job and don't mind spending $$$$$ so...


In summary if you don't want to spend $$$$$$$$$$$ stick to stock or small cam and a set of decent ported heads

However, there is no such thing as cheap performance parts...buy HIGH QUALITY the first time or be prepared to do it over and its never cheaper the second time.

To reiterate FAST CHEAP, RELIABLE, choose two.