I have an 89 with 82K that has been nothing but problems these last few months. Now I have to replace my intake manifold because I broke a bolt of on the thermostate housng. Neverless, I have to pull the distributor and I canoot get a socket on the harmonic balance to rotate the engine to #1 TDC. Do I really have to be this, if so, how? I cannot get a wrench in to do it, any suggestions would help.

Thanks

Not really necessary to bring the engine to TDC for what you are doing, just be sure you reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointing at the same spot and do not turn the engine over while it is removed. If you forget and turn the engine with the distributor removed you WILL need to bring it back to TDC to orient the distributor correctly.

Rotating to TDC is the best way to do it. I recently replaced the intake gaskets and had to do the same thing. Using a deep socket, or a shallow socket with a really short extension should do the trick.

If you marked the exact position of the distributor before you pulled it and are certain that the gear hasn't rotated, you may be able to drop it back in place without rotating the motor. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it that way, though.

Phillip

A 5/8th socket and a 6in extension should go thru the hump in the pipe on the PS rack onto the center bolt in the crank pulley. CAUTION, the crank is not all that hard, threads can be stripped in the blink of an eye. IF you go this route I would suggest removing all the plugs before you attempt to rotate the engine. Another way is to raise the car, remove the flywheel cover, then use a screwdriver to rotate the crank. You will get suggestions to use the starter, can be done but is hit or miss to get TDC exactly.

Take pictures of the rotor position and mark location on the firewall. If you remove the plugs the engine is fairly easy to turn over. I use a 1/2" six point deep socket, (5/8 socket?). I use an old 1/2" drive torque wrench as it is longer and makes it easier to turn the engine. Remember to put transmission in neutral.

Turn the key. Let the starter turn the motor over.

Did you try to get the broken bolt out with an easy out yet?
Anytime I've had to pull the dist., I've rotated the engine till the rotor lines up with the firewall, and put a chalkmark there. (oldschool)
What a coincidence, I have an 89 w/82000mi. and good luck

I have removed distributor and replaced many times (years ago), without having engine at TDC.
Just make sure rotor points to same place when you put the distributor back in.

Thanks for all the advice. I couldn't think of a reason why it had to be at TDC. I can't move it with the starter, I already have the fuel rails and half the engine apart. I'll just take a picture and be sure I put it back in the same position.

I will agree the engine doesn't have to be TDC when just changing the intake.

But I do want to add that whenever you do place it a TDC and you use the ratchet idea on the front crank pulley. Remember that with the spark plugs in place makes it tough to rotate since it does create compression. Must easier to rotate with the spark plugs removed.

I just put a ratchet on my 90's alternator pulley bolt and with plugs out turns over real easy and I can feel the #1 coming up on compression stroke and once it does keep turning motor clockwise till the marks line up and its at 6 degrees. then take a long flat edge turn the oil pump drive a little so distributor drop in and lines up with #1 then its base timing is very close.

If you drill out the bolt in place, all you have to do is remove the throttle body and the water hoses on it. If you drill the bolt, drill very slowly, and the drill will not dull out fast. use a 1/4 " drill bit.
You can drill the bolt about a half inch deep, and then use an easy out to get it out. Snap-on makes some really short ones so you can get some torque on it, or just get the regular ones. Harbor freight sells them as well.
I would not pull the manifold for just that.

Left hand drill bits work also. I use them at work all the time.

Again, great advice. I did drill the bolt and put in an easy out. The easy out snapped immediately, with very little pressure. I bought it from Advance Auto, the square kind apparently made of pot metal. After that, I drilled slightly off center and scarred up the intake. Neverthess, I really like the pulling the plugs and rotating from the alternator. I might try that tomorrow, if not, I'll just pull the distributer where it is.

Thanks

I've never had any luck with easy outs, I've always had them snap off.

I just thought of something, I don't even have to pull pluds. I already have the fuel injectors out....

One of the best tools that you can buy is a remote starter.you can buy them at advance auto for 12.99.Great tool for getting motor to TDC and setting valve lash.

I'm going through the process now of adjusting the valves. I have no problem rotating the engine with a breaker bar (spark plugs in). All I did was disconnect the battery, set the transmission in neutral, take the distributor cap off 'so I can see were the rotor is' and turn the crankshaft until the timing mark is at zero (the rotor should be pointing to where the no.1 spark plug wire terminal would be) if the timing mark is at the 0 mark on the timing plate but the rotor isn't pointing at the no.1 spark plug terminal at the distributor cap, its TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees clockwise and you will be TDC on the compression stroke.


But I think thats a little off subject if he just wants to pull the intake manifold, as long as you remember where the rotor is pointing to when you take the distributor out and put it back in facing the same way you will be fine.