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Tips for separating Old Exhaust components

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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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Default Tips for separating Old Exhaust components

'89 Coupe 119,000 miles with all original exhaust. I have unbolted everything from Converter to the rear and tried for an hour or so to separate the converter from the front Y pipe with no luck. I took the bolts from the rear Y pipe also to try and separate it there also. No luck there either.
What is the trick to get pieces separated? I suspect the converter is clogged so it is my intention to replace with high flow cat if I can get the pieces separated.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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The "U" bolts when tightened will compress the metal pipe actually crimping the two pipes together. Your best bet is to either cut the pipes or use a grinder with a cut off wheel and run 4-5 slits into the pipes and then use a cold chisel and hammer it between the two pipes to expand the outer pipe.

Any way you look at it, it will not be a easy time. Fastest and easiest is to just cut the pipe. If you intend to reuse the pipe, then weld it back together.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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HEAT. If that doesn't work, use more heat. If it still doesn't want to come off...HEAT IT UP SOME MORE!!

It's all about getting it piping, glowing red hot. Maybe use a hammer and pry bar a little bit too.

There is no "magic" to it...just grunt work.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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So it will definitely easier to pull the entire system out and lay it on the ground and do the work. I am very leary of the studs on the manifolds.
I soaked them with wd 40 forty today just in case.
Thanks for the tips guys. I will use heat and a grinder once I lay the exhaust on the the ground.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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You could also try a block of wood and a small handle sledge hammer.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
HEAT. If that doesn't work, use more heat. If it still doesn't want to come off...HEAT IT UP SOME MORE!!

It's all about getting it piping, glowing red hot. Maybe use a hammer and pry bar a little bit too.

There is no "magic" to it...just grunt work.

If the heat just isn't doing it, let it cool down, and soak it with penetrating oil, like PB blaster, or wd-40, let it sit overnight. Next day, get the torch out again. Repeat as neccessary. If it were me, I'd sawzall the thing off and deal with the consequences. I just don't have the patients. I know, that's the hospital kind of patient, but I can't remember how to spell it the other way.


Scott


Scott
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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Use PB Blaster instead of WD40. WD40 is not as good, it is really a Water Displacement agent rather than a penetrating fluid.

The "blue flame wrench" will work, but you really need to have the exhaust pipes off the car to do this!! Still recommend slitting the pipes and using a cold chisel.....and I have a heavy duty welder, plasma torch, Oxygen/acetylene torch and other cutting tools! The crimp from the clamps on the outside pipe have to be expanded enough to clear the inside pipe.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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Ten minutes....maybe ten minutes for these guys

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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Ten minutes....maybe ten minutes for these guys

yeah but they charge for the whole hour. I'll drink a beer and hit it...heat it up drink a beer and hit it again... drink a beer while it cools down spray it... hit again.. drink another beer and put the Y pipe in the fork of a tree..tie a strap around the converter and the other end to the jeep and something is going to happen
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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^^Sorry your in North Carolina, if you were local you'd see these guys are the real deal. I bought one system from them 3-4 years ago...they've never allowed me to pay them again for little repairs and adjustments since then. I have to force them to take $40 every now and again.

When I did my transmission, I broke the rear right muffler off....right at the pipe. I took it in to those guys at Fantasy....they welded it up for me and told me "no charge"...that's when I insisted on giving them something......
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
^^Sorry your in North Carolina, if you were local you'd see these guys are the real deal. I bought one system from them 3-4 years ago...they've never allowed me to pay them again for little repairs and adjustments since then. I have to force them to take $40 every now and again.

When I did my transmission, I broke the rear right muffler off....right at the pipe. I took it in to those guys at Fantasy....they welded it up for me and told me "no charge"...that's when I insisted on giving them something......
WOW! We need more people/businesses like that! In NJ they would tell you to leave the car (NEVER) and they will make a story up and charge you for 2hrs worth of work at a crazy hourly rate! Thats why I do everything by myself. If I dont know what Im doing I research and then attempt and learn from my mistakes! In NJ they charge top dollar to put tires on rims and they still scratch the rims (waiting for their insurance to cover that!)...
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
The "U" bolts when tightened will compress the metal pipe actually swaging the two pipes together... use a grinder with a cut off wheel and run 4-5 slits into the pipes and then use a cold chisel and hammer it between the two pipes to expand the outer pipe.
sorta

my difs;
2 slits as near to 90* apart as possible is enuf...while cutting the slits, stop periodically and look at the bottom of your cut--as you cut thru the outer pipe and start into the inner pipe, you will see a pair of tiny black lines at the bottom of the cut (you're actually seeing the corrosion interface between the inner/outer pipes), do not cut deeper...slits only need to reach to where the clamp swaged the pipes together, no longer.

use an old flat-blade screwdriver as a chisel to 'expand' the outer pipe at the slits rather than a cold chisel...the 'wedge' of the cold chisel is much greater than a screwdriver and makes for both more work and pipe damage.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Ten minutes....maybe ten minutes for these guys

These guys are even `Vette owners. Here is a pic showing their car after all their hard work paid off.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Ten minutes....maybe ten minutes for these guys


This setup might work fine out in sunny California, but up here in New England, forget it!! Unless you only worked in the summer.......


Scott
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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While I don't recommend this method here is how I got my exhaust components apart from the cat back. I already had the clamp loose in front of the cat and bolts behind the cat out. I put the bolts back in but not tight. I was working on the miss problem I had, so during a test drive the pressure and heat combined with the play I had left in the system it basically separated itself from the cat back to where I will be able to pull it all apart when I am ready.
although I am still have to tackle the manifold bolts at least the other parts have become a none issue.
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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Today I pulled the entire exhaust system out. The bolts on the exhaust manifolds were surprising easy well at least 5 of the were. The stiffest one I decided to tackle it first. It was a labor of love. I found myself laughing at it many times. It started with one pop off then tighten then two pops off then tighten and so on. One of them the stud came out boy was I surprised. PB blaster and time and patience.
As I thought the main Cat was plugged up. Yesterday I put CV joints on my jeep liberty. That was not fun. Today was fun and good therapy.
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