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Hey guys. My baby failed emissions. The Nox was way too high. To date I have changed the EGR, Fuel pressure regulator, map sensor, injectors, O2, distributor. I think I have hit everything. Can you think of anything else that might impact the NOX reading?
Also, when I crank the car she will stall immediately. After warm up she will bobble at idle. Basically it will not hold a steady idle but fluctuate between 500-750 rpms. And she will stall every once in a while. If I hold my foot on the accellerator a little she does fine. Idle air motor? I checked for vac leaks by spraying the whole intake with starter fluid and got no fluctations in rpms.
Also, when I crank the car she will stall immediately. After warm up she will bobble at idle. Basically it will not hold a steady idle but fluctuate between 500-750 rpms. And she will stall every once in a while. If I hold my foot on the accellerator a little she does fine. Idle air motor? I checked for vac leaks by spraying the whole intake with starter fluid and got no fluctations in rpms.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks guys!
Yes, I would replace the IAC. My 90 had the same idle problem. After replacing the IAC and using the procedure to reset the idle it cured the idle problem.
Yes, I would replace the IAC. My 90 had the same idle problem. After replacing the IAC and using the procedure to reset the idle it cured the idle problem.
The Egr is off at idle so blocked passages are not an idle issue. If the EGR is held open at idle by carbon deposits on the EGR seat it can cause idle problems. This is just one possible causes of your problem. Before going any further get the car scanned and compare the values to factory specs. This will really help isolate the problem and prevent replacing good parts
The Egr is off at idle so blocked passages are not an idle issue. If the EGR is held open at idle by carbon deposits on the EGR seat it can cause idle problems. This is just one possible causes of your problem. Before going any further get the car scanned and compare the values to factory specs. This will really help isolate the problem and prevent replacing good parts
Your TPS is non adjustable, the ECM will recalibrate it's TPS idle voltage, next time you start it up.
Engine at operating temp
Jump terminals "A" and "B" on the ALDL connector
Turn on ignition and wait 30 seconds
Unplug IAC connector
Unplug EST connector
Remove jumper and start engine
Turn off engine
Re-connect IAC and EST
Remove ECM power wire or disconnect neg terminal on battery, for 30 seconds.
Done
Hey guys. My baby failed emissions. The Nox was way too high. To date I have changed the EGR, Fuel pressure regulator, map sensor, injectors, O2, distributor. I think I have hit everything. Can you think of anything else that might impact the NOX reading?
Also, when I crank the car she will stall immediately. After warm up she will bobble at idle. Basically it will not hold a steady idle but fluctuate between 500-750 rpms. And she will stall every once in a while. If I hold my foot on the accellerator a little she does fine. Idle air motor? I checked for vac leaks by spraying the whole intake with starter fluid and got no fluctations in rpms.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks guys!
This is a must read if you want to understand how your engine management and FI systems work. Covers smog diagnosing issues.
Car had a complete tune up less than 3K miles including new distributor, cap, rotor, coil, and wires.
I have picked up a new IAC and will get it on the car Wednesday night. I will also flush out the EGR passages at the same time. What a way to spend an evening!!
Thanks guys. I will let you know how this works out.
Did you check the EGR solenoid valve. You can find it by tracing the EGR hose from the EGR vaslve to the Solenoid valve. Your EGr could be fine however, The EGR will not activate unless it gets the vacuum signal from the solenoid valve.
It's kind of tricky to check. I check mine by teeing into the vacuum line between the EGR and the solenoid valve. From the tee, i run a line to a vacuum gauge. The hose should be long enough that you can close your hood. then you drive along the freeway and watch the vacuum gauge. It should show system vacuum off and on as you drive. the reason you need to do this is, The EGR does not activate at idle or when in park. Goos luck
Even with EGR, it needs a functioning CAT. You should scan it to check fuel delivery, though assuming the other test numbers (post them) were in line, it's probably close enough and if the EGR is functioning, it probably needs a new CAT. How many miles? Were any of the injectors leaking down prior to replacement? A rich condition burns up the CAT. Did the Tester offer any suggestions?
Usually, if the EGR were stuck open, it would stumble and stall - not surge.
If EGR failed to occur when commanded, it would store a troublecode and the Check Engine Light would come on until EGR was no longer needed. Again, a scan would tell you whether or not EGR was commanded and fuel delivery should swing rich if the event takes place.
Scanning data would also help you diagnose the surge. Check the MAP signal which is used for Load - Targeted Idle vs. Actual when it surges.
The Check Engine light has come on and off since I bought the car almost 4 years ago. And the car has been running rich. I changed the IAC last night and flushed out the EGR passages. I am going to change my plugs tonight to make sure there are no carbon fouled plugs. I will let you guys know if the car passes this weekend.
The Check Engine light has come on and off since I bought the car almost 4 years ago. And the car has been running rich. I changed the IAC last night and flushed out the EGR passages. I am going to change my plugs tonight to make sure there are no carbon fouled plugs. I will let you guys know if the car passes this weekend.