When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I havent actually seen pics of the Melrose cell but Im told its about $1500. I have a set of their headers and they are beautiful so Im sure its worth every penny, but Im not doing so hot on $$$ right now (newborn child). As far as I can tell if I chop the supports for the rear cover and ditch the crash bumper I can fit a cell that is about 17" in length. Width is almost infinite, for commercially available cells. Height looks to be about 12 - 15 in max depending on how far the cell can hang down. My major issue as of now now is mounting brackets. I just moved and my welder and 90% of shop equipment is not with me so Im kinda screwed. I need to figure this out soon. I was looking at some RCI cells for traditional rods as they are wide and thin and would fit nicely but they have no sump and the fill is way off to the side. Anyone know the capacity of the melrose cell?
I can fit a cell that is about 17" in length. Height looks to be about 12 - 15 in max depending on how far the cell can hang down. My major issue as of now now is mounting brackets.
15" is perfect ( tight ) fit between bulkhead and backup light mounts.
I have 15" x 8" H x 20"L 8 gal cell; bottom is 2" above bottom of rear X member
I have another 6" clearance above cell but would have to come down to 14" W as the rear bulkhead slopes back reducing room at the top
Support brackets are welded to rear X member above swaybar
From: Southside of Western Norte Americano State of Confusion, ColoFornia
St. Jude '13
Ill add a bit more.. a fuel cell is typically designed to suppress fire/explosion by being filled with foam or some or material so that fuel vapor doesn't form (fuel vapor is explosive, liquid is not) and usually cells also have some sort of valve that closes them off in the event of a rollover.
so:
Cells are supposed to be : smaller,lighter,safer...and in a race vehicle you can lighten the weight by using a smaller cell, since they don't have much slosh and a sump you can use almost every drop out of them even during cornering/braking moves.
Options to consider is if you loose the spare and its related hardware a nice moly setup including the battery relocated can be done, also you can get the necessary 90ohm sender so the factory gauge works and the filler neck can be offest to fill from the factory location also.
rodj, do you have your fuel cell mounted on the factory support? If so is it modified in any way? I was considering a fabricated mount to hold the cell a bit lower, just under the taillight supports. Im looking at a 16 gal cell measuring 17"LX25"WX9"H. Im trying to locate the sump outlets just under the liscense plate frame. I never considered relocating the battery next to the cell. Excellent suggestion but it seems like it will be a tough job. Probably worth it though. Ive seen some people put a small battery in the pass side storage tray. Doesnt seem like a bad location.
rodj, do you have your fuel cell mounted on the factory support? If so is it modified in any way? I was considering a fabricated mount to hold the cell a bit lower, just under the taillight supports. Im looking at a 16 gal cell measuring 17"LX25"WX9"H. Im trying to locate the sump outlets just under the liscense plate frame. I never considered relocating the battery next to the cell. Excellent suggestion but it seems like it will be a tough job. Probably worth it though. Ive seen some people put a small battery in the pass side storage tray. Doesnt seem like a bad location.
I've got the battery located to the right of the fuel cell. It's the larger odyssey battery. I have the kill switch in the license plate.
I have an 8 gallon Summit Brand in mine and it works fine.
Once you get the rear bumper off, which is not as hard as I thought it would be, then you can get some good measurements and check out the ones on the market.
I did remove a small section of the aluminum rear frame to get mine to fit, but I rebuilt it back up with 1" DOM steel tubing which I can assure you is 10x stonger than it was originally.
Wish I had some photos but my 2 yr old had destroyed my camera around that time and I do not think I got any photos. Turned out nice and i can still fill mine right through the original gas tank port. Nobody would be the wiser if I did not tell you it was there.
Does anyone have any more pics of fuel cells installed in their C4's? I have an 89 that I'm having Jim(TPI_421_vette) build me a 396 this winter and i want to install a 10 Gallon Fuel cell in the cargo area.
Also when installing a fuel cell can you remove the Stock tank for weight savings or is is part of the rear end structure?
Does anyone have any more pics of fuel cells installed in their C4's? I have an 89 that I'm having Jim(TPI_421_vette) build me a 396 this winter and i want to install a 10 Gallon Fuel cell in the cargo area.
Also when installing a fuel cell can you remove the Stock tank for weight savings or is is part of the rear end structure?
where do you get the stainless fuel lines from with the AN fittings? I got the TPIS miniram which came with lines but i'd like to run the same type of lines from the fuel cell all the way to the fuel filter where the TPIS provided lines end.
Also when installing a fuel cell can you remove the Stock tank for weight savings or is is part of the rear end structure?
You remove stock tank and either;
mount a fuel cell on top of the rear support structure
or remove that ( more suited to off road use ) and make a new bracket to support tank.
Also have to fab / replace all the little support brackets that go to the inner wheel wells / bumper that were attached to the original support bracket
Gottcha thanks for the links. Sounds like it will be alittle more work than i was anticipating. My idea was to mount the cell on top of the existing carpet which is all new in the call and bolt it down with the summit kit:
My concerns were weather or not i could remove the tank for structural reasons but then again i don't want to lighten up the rear end to to much since i will be using this as a street/strip car. So if i left the tank on and drained it my other concern would be would the tank then rust on the inside
So basically my idea was to use the two things in the links above, Mount it in the cargo area on top of the carpet and bolt it to the unibody, then get the custom stainless braded lines with AN fittings. then just wire everything up. Is this possible?
Right now if the car goes to quarter tank or below i get that crazy hesitation that someone mentioned if you felt you'll never forget
Right now if the car goes to quarter tank or below i get that crazy hesitation that someone mentioned if you felt you'll never forget
So like the rest of us you learn what the min fuel you can run at the track is
Possible solution would to be like the Ricers and run a surge tank between pump and rails
haha or a swirl pot. Which may not be a bad idea but i'll have to hide it! Ok well thanks for the info. I'll talk with Jim and see what he thinks i can finangle in there.
Reason that this is so different is I have a back half car and I plan on putting this between my frame rails and then on either side on of the frame rails I will run electrics on one side, I will run the fuel pumps on the other. I will be running a fire wall behind the rear frame rails and I will be encasing the fuel cell in its own fire wall. In the morning I will be out in the garage doing some work to open the wheel wells for the rear tires (33X21.5X15's)and will be working on Wheel Tubs....
I am positive that if you have Jim(TPI_421_vette) working on the project, he will come up with some great ideas. He is not far from me, and I know him. Does TOP NOTCH work!
Here is the Melrose fuel cell mount and ATL cell that the mount is made to fit.
You remove the aluminum rear support from under your rear bumper and bolt in this mount in it's place. It bolts directly to your frame. No cutting or welding necessary.