O2 sensor:
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Orland Hills ILLINOIS
O2 sensor:
Ok gents, where is the O2 sensor in a 1984 corvette?
I think its time to replace mine and I want to make sure I do it right.
Is this something I can do myself?
Thxs
And Happy Holidays to all you guys and your familys.
Kevin
I think its time to replace mine and I want to make sure I do it right.
Is this something I can do myself?
Thxs
And Happy Holidays to all you guys and your familys.
Kevin
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 2
From: Columbiana AL
It should be pointing rearward from the downpipe, directly under the drivers side exhaust manifold. It took about 10 min to replace mine. I used a wrench and reached up from underneath. Bosch replacement cost from the local parts store 20.00.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
ARe you getting any codes that point to the O2 sensor? Is the computer not going into closed loop?
The O2 sensor should be in the exhaust pipe just below where it attaches to the exhaust manifold. It should be visible by looking at the bottom of the manifold.
The chances are pretty good that the sensor is well rusted in place. IF you don't need the car for a couple days, use a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster each day to liberally soak the threads on the sensor. Disconnect the wire and use a box-end wrench to loosen it. You may have to take a hammer and give it a couple of shapr blows to break any rust or corrosion.
If that won't loosen it, you may have to apply some heat around the bung.
The O2 sensor should be in the exhaust pipe just below where it attaches to the exhaust manifold. It should be visible by looking at the bottom of the manifold.
The chances are pretty good that the sensor is well rusted in place. IF you don't need the car for a couple days, use a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster each day to liberally soak the threads on the sensor. Disconnect the wire and use a box-end wrench to loosen it. You may have to take a hammer and give it a couple of shapr blows to break any rust or corrosion.
If that won't loosen it, you may have to apply some heat around the bung.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
You can get a crow's foot 02 sensor wrench from Sears or NAPA. Makes the job lots easier. Also, don't forget the anti-seize compound on the new sensor. But don't get any on the tip or you'll ruin it.
Oh, and if you accidentally break the pigtail connector (they get brittle from exhaust heat) you can buy them at NAPA, too
Oh, and if you accidentally break the pigtail connector (they get brittle from exhaust heat) you can buy them at NAPA, too
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
In case you haven't located it, just go to the driver side of the car, with the hood open (of course) follow the exhaust mani downwards. as it turns into down pipe and bends backwards towards the rear of the car.....just about 3-4 inches after that bend you'll just be able to make it out. It is cylindrical in shape (like a deep socket) points towards the oil pan and has a single wire coming out of it.
Once you see where it is you have to get to....it sure makes it easier to accomplish.
A single jack under the front rocker (on the frame of course) should do the trick. You only need to lift that side of the car to slide under there and get to it.
Another poster said that if the old one is seized, you can cut the old wire off and use a deep socket with a breaker bar.
Once you see where it is you have to get to....it sure makes it easier to accomplish.
A single jack under the front rocker (on the frame of course) should do the trick. You only need to lift that side of the car to slide under there and get to it.
Another poster said that if the old one is seized, you can cut the old wire off and use a deep socket with a breaker bar.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
In case you haven't located it, just go to the driver side of the car, with the hood open (of course) follow the exhaust mani downwards. as it turns into down pipe and bends backwards towards the rear of the car.....just about 3-4 inches after that bend you'll just be able to make it out. It is cylindrical in shape (like a deep socket) points towards the oil pan and has a single wire coming out of it.
Once you see where it is you have to get to....it sure makes it easier to accomplish.
A single jack under the front rocker (on the frame of course) should do the trick. You only need to lift that side of the car to slide under there and get to it.
Another poster said that if the old one is seized, you can cut the old wire off and use a deep socket with a breaker bar.
Once you see where it is you have to get to....it sure makes it easier to accomplish.
A single jack under the front rocker (on the frame of course) should do the trick. You only need to lift that side of the car to slide under there and get to it.
Another poster said that if the old one is seized, you can cut the old wire off and use a deep socket with a breaker bar.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
yessir.......I wish I would follow my on advice...unless it is a in depth procedure, I don't bother.....but I know that I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
yessir.......I wish I would follow my on advice...unless it is a in depth procedure, I don't bother.....but I know that I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
Though the pinched weld is over a foot long. So, I say you should be able to get a jack under there, lift it up, then put the jack stand under the pinched weld closer to the center of the car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Orland Hills ILLINOIS
Thanks for all the reply's and help. I have not gotten a code for it, but since its cheap and not hard to get to I want to replace it. Its original and I want to throw a new one in.
It's winter here in Chicago so now I have time to play around and replace things. I gotta tinker with something on the car. I just have the time to replace old parts now with it being winter and I want to make sure she has the best I can give her.
Thxs guys
It's winter here in Chicago so now I have time to play around and replace things. I gotta tinker with something on the car. I just have the time to replace old parts now with it being winter and I want to make sure she has the best I can give her.
Thxs guys
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
yessir.......I wish I would follow my on advice...unless it is a in depth procedure, I don't bother.....but I know that I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
You know the biggest deal for me?? is that the Jack is where the Jack stand should be. Once I jack it up...how do I move the jack out of the way and put the Jack stand in that spot.
I always have the front jack stands inwards on that crease. If you follow it forward from the actual jack spot...you see the crease sort of turn inwards of the front wheel.....I put that stand right there although I am not sure I should.
