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removing odometer. 84 Vette

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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Default removing odometer. 84 Vette

i picked up a good instrument cluster for my 84 last night from a friend to replace the faulty unit in the car now. my car has 37K miles and the cluster i picked up has 113K miles..not good. so, my question is, before i go tearing in to this thing, how do i install my odometer into the cluster i just picked up. here are a couple pics of my new cluster for reference:



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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
i picked up a good instrument cluster for my 84 last night from a friend to replace the faulty unit in the car now. my car has 37K miles and the cluster i picked up has 113K miles..not good. so, my question is, before i go tearing in to this thing, how do i install my odometer into the cluster i just picked up. here are a couple pics of my new cluster for reference:
You'll need to remove the back cover to get access to the odometer. From there it's easy. Unscrew it from the board; unplug the power wire and re-install the original odometer. I always hard wire the ground wire on the interconnect pins. A bad ground will cause the cluster to go dim.
Good luck,
Dan
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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excellent! thanks for the advice. i'll keep everyone posted on the progress of cluster swapping!!
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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got the new cluster in with my old odometer and all is well..except that the coolant temp wording doesn't light up. no big loss i can deal with that, at least it displays the temperature. better than than a dead cluster!
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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You need to visit Batee.com ASAP.

You now have two faulty Clusters when if you you (here comes the scolding part) you could have fixed your original one for $20-$50 depending on if you had tools or not.

You've figured out by now that you need a proper size nut driver to disassemble the three boards. that is most of the expense of fixing the clusters.

Once you get to Batee.com you'll see that a simple soldering iron and new Bulbs will have that cluster working good as new. It takes about an hour to resolder all the points where the solder may have become brittle and cracked causing a short......

Once you get that old Cluster reworked, you can swap it all back again.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
You need to visit Batee.com ASAP.

...an hour to resolder all the points where the solder may have become brittle and cracked causing a short......
I think you mean "open circuits" not shorts. Board is notorious for bad ground contacts.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vettedan
I think you mean "open circuits" not shorts. Board is notorious for bad ground contacts.
Sure, why not........

The solder gets old...cracks and no longer connects the component to the tracer in the FR4 laminate.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Do yourself a favor. Once you open up that cluster, change all the bulbs and sockets in there.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:14 AM
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i definatly plan on fixing my original cluster. the one i installed was given to me by a friend so it cost me nothing. i've had the 5.5mm nut driver for awhile now. definatly a tool to have when owning a C4
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vettedan
You'll need to remove the back cover to get access to the odometer. From there it's easy. Unscrew it from the board; unplug the power wire and re-install the original odometer. I always hard wire the ground wire on the interconnect pins. A bad ground will cause the cluster to go dim.
Good luck,
Dan

I soldered a ground wire on mine Thursday. In the last 12 years this is third time I have had a ground problem. This time I think I did a permanent fix. Only took 1/2 hour total.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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got any pics of the ground wire that you soldered?
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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I was going to take pics, but once I got going I forgot until I had it back together. LOcate the ground pin on the connector that joins the boards. I will be the burnt one at one end. The female side will be surrounded in plastic. The plastic was burnt and brittle. I just chipped it away to expose the area where the base of the female pin meets the board. Soldered a 6" piece of wire at the base of the pin. Soldered the other end to the base of the male pin on the other board. Easier done than said. Just got back from a 30 mile drive, dash nice& bright and not one flicker.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
got any pics of the ground wire that you soldered?
LOL...the exact spots you need to resolder are listed on Batee.com. I'm not sure about a "Wire".....there are natural "ground plains" built into the FR4 laminate (the green board) and they are connected by the aluminum stand-offs that bolt the boards together. If those ground plains are cleaned prior to re-assembly, not "Wire" needs to be added. The "wire" is already included in the factory harness.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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for best results i'll check Batee.com. thank you!
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
LOL...the exact spots you need to resolder are listed on Batee.com. I'm not sure about a "Wire".....there are natural "ground plains" built into the FR4 laminate (the green board) and they are connected by the aluminum stand-offs that bolt the boards together. If those ground plains are cleaned prior to re-assembly, not "Wire" needs to be added. The "wire" is already included in the factory harness.
No. The main ground goes through the the end pin on the connector that joins the 2 boards. I knew I should have taken pics.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 06:29 AM
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is the wire you are talking about the long black wire in this pic stretching across the board:


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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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No, the white rectangle on the top right of the pic is what joins the two boards. The pin at the right of it is the ground. In the pic you cant see the other board because they are still together. The second board is the same size and directly underneath. Current is carried thru the white connector to the lower board. I really is easier to do than explain.
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 08:09 AM
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thanks for the tip. i'm off tomorrow so i'll do some reading on Batee.com and take your advice and disassemble the cluster and see what may or may not be bad. i may start a new thread with pics or just post here with what i find.
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