C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1996 LT1 Overheating Nightmare

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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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Default 1996 LT1 Overheating Nightmare

I purchased my Torch Red 96 LT1 in August of 2007 (after selling my 84) and never had an issue until recently. This experience has become increasingly frustrating as my Vette is currently my DD.

Some days the car runs perfect. I drove over 100 miles from San Diego to Los Angeles with the engine temp floating around 200.

As I pulled into Burbank the engine temp shot up from 200 to past 260 in a matter of Seconds. I let the car sit for 15 minutes, started it back up and it was like nothing ever happened. The "Low Coolant" light comes on, however the reservoir is almost full and bubbling like crazy. Overheats are completely sporadic. There is no oil visible in the coolant. The fans come on automatically at 230.

Things I have done over the past week (None of which fixed it)

1. Replaced the water pump.
2. Had the system professionally bled and flushed. (Multiple times)
3. Replaced the 160 thermostat.
4. Replaced the radiator cap with a 16psi.

When the engine is not overheating the car runs very strong which leads me to believe it is not a head gasket issue.

Any advice from the Vette experts?



(At the day spa)
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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Have you cleaned the front of your radiator? Since air comes in from the bottom debris can block airflow to the radiator, leaving you with marginal cooling.

If nothing is blocking the radiator I'd pressure test the cooling system.


Mike
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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If you are getting bubbles in your overflow tank you could have a cracked head, a blown head gasket or a crack in the cylinder block. I had trash covering almost half my radiator on my '92 and it would slowly heat up in traffic or when stopped. Continous bubbles coming from the radiator usually indicate the first three possibilities listed.
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Have you cleaned the front of your radiator? Since air comes in from the bottom debris can block airflow to the radiator, leaving you with marginal cooling.

If nothing is blocking the radiator I'd pressure test the cooling system.


Mike
They're notorious for it-debri in front of the condenser and between condenser and radiator. I'm also wondering if as you say "200 to 260 in a matter of seconds"-- about a air pocket ( I know it's been checked) coolant shouldn't/wouldn't jump 60 degrees in a matter of seconds. Are both analog and digital gauges close to the same even when it overheats ??
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 05:09 PM
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Just a thought....You said you replaced the 160 thermostat. Did you make sure the one you replaced it with is for a vette? The LT1 has a reverse flow cooling system and takes a special thermostat. Just any old 350 thermostat won't work.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Watching the temp gauge climb was similar to watching an analog speedometer climb at wide open throttle. It usually happens when going up any kind of grade. The bubbling in the reservoir only happens when the engine has overheated. On "good" days there is no problem whatsoever.

Going to check on the radiator. I appreciate the feedback.

Last edited by -Bell-; Dec 28, 2009 at 05:21 PM.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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The most important item othr than the radiator is the thermostat.

If you don't have the special LT-1 thermostat with the long cylinder and round valve plate on the end, the water doesn't circulate properly into the block, instaead it recirculates mostly through the radiator and water pump....can definately cause your symptoms.....I know why from a personal experience

Also, make sure they bleed air from the bleed valve on the thermostat gooseneck

Lastly, check to see if both fans are running when you get too hot.

There are three fan relays and when one goes, the fans will ot come on properly. If I remember right it goes from one fan on to both low and then both high. Three stages!

The three relays are located on the driver side of the radiator shroud. I have had one of the connections actually overheat and not work properly.....

Good Luck on finding the problem
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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that sounds very similar to my '95 that i bought in July. The over heating was inconsistent. It would get pretty warm in traffic and then cool down once i got up to highway speed. I pulled pressure test with the radiator and it looked ok. then one day i guess pushed it far enuff that it really started to smoke. I pretty much did everything you have and then once it started smoking, i pulled the plugs and then the heads.

In fact now i am really thinking about replacing the thermostat back to a 180 degree and changing the fan programing since it never gets above 190 even in traffic.

Good luck to ya
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKVette

There are three fan relays and when one goes, the fans will ot come on properly. If I remember right it goes from one fan on to both low and then both high.
Only two stages.
1) Both on Lo.
2) Both on Hi.
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 04:03 AM
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A good shop willo have a 'sniffer' to detect any exhaust leak into the coolant. water pump drive pin could have been installed wrong ..unlikey. spend the 25 to 50 bucks for a real shop to check for head leaks with the right tools....not just a pressure test, then we can get into real diagnostics....right now, we're spittin in the wind. and yes, the wrond thermostat will do exactly what your describing too,
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Have you cleaned the front of your radiator? Since air comes in from the bottom debris can block airflow to the radiator, leaving you with marginal cooling.

If nothing is blocking the radiator I'd pressure test the cooling system.


Mike
Could have sucked up a plastic bag/news paper etc. There is a 1" x 1" peep hole. Take a flash light and take a look. Its located on the right side of the radiator shroud. Might be time to pull the radiator and clean out the debris.

P.S. I know you said you changed the t-stat but it sounds like yours is stuck (not opening)(wrong new thermostat? or bad new thermostat)

Last edited by runner140*; Dec 29, 2009 at 07:58 AM. Reason: additional information
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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Are both gauges climbing that fast?

Are you sure they bled the air out of the system correctly and completely?
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Clean the radiator+shroud. I have a similar problem with my 95. It heats up fast in traffic and during the summer I watch the temp gauge more than the road. The radiator is old/beat (15 years old) I have a Dewitt's Aluminum Rad on order.
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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If all else fails try wetter water, had a problem with my 95 the stuff works like a miracle. Poured one bottle in problems went away.
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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sounds like the fans to me

had the exact thing happen when one was starting to go out on me.
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
sounds like the fans to me

had the exact thing happen when one was starting to go out on me.
Brian,

Rereading his pulling into Burbank makes me think that you may be onto something......I didn't even think fan because I'd notice they weren't running in traffic however, OP might not...but the anytime going up grade has me pondering........

But fans are an easy check....

I believe easiest check is to turn AC on, pop hood and see if fans are running....(is there easier way to force them on????? )

Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; Dec 29, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
(is there easier way to force them on????? )

Mike
you can jumper the relay(s)

I've also hooked them up direct the to battery.

if it's intermittent, then it might be a little harder to tell

but certainly next time it overheats

kill the engine, then turn the key ON and see if they come on.

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To 1996 LT1 Overheating Nightmare

Old Dec 29, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Low Coolant Light and over heating tells me air in the system which happens the LC sensor is exposed to air. If the pressure testing gauge won't hold, there's s leak somewhere.

Why the coolant level became low to cause low coolant has to be discovered too. Overflow reservoir bottle should remain at the proper level with coolant.

Burp, pressure test for any leak would be my first moves rather than jumping to the more extreme possible causes. Logical, sequential, basic stuff first - K.I.S.S.

Last time I had an issue like yours I traced to a sticking stat. I went with a Fail-Safe version so, should IT fail, it would do so in an OPEN position, preventing over heating.

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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QUOTE=BrianCunningham;1572575755]you can jumper the relay(s)

I've also hooked them up direct the to battery.

if it's intermittent, then it might be a little harder to tell

but certainly next time it overheats

kill the engine, then turn the key ON and see if they come on.[/QUOTE]


IMO jumpering or directly powering them is not easier than turning AC on. Either I'm getting lazy in my old age or you are an over achiever
Old Dec 29, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
QUOTE=BrianCunningham;1572575755]you can jumper the relay(s)

I've also hooked them up direct the to battery.

if it's intermittent, then it might be a little harder to tell

but certainly next time it overheats

kill the engine, then turn the key ON and see if they come on.

IMO jumpering or directly powering them is not easier than turning AC on. Either I'm getting lazy in my old age or you are an over achiever [/QUOTE]

The guy all ready has an overheating problem!



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