Greetings - still hanging in there with my 92 six speed. But I'm having an intermittent starting problem that has been mis-diagnosed as a fuel issue. Wiring (said fuses were melted to the board and very low power getting to the pump), pump, filter, sender have all been replaced. Tech said there was water in the gas but I don't think that's it because after he "fixed" it, I encountered the same problem with starting two weeks later after many successful starts. He also said there was rust and sludge in the gas tank. How can that be if there is a bladder? When questioned he went off on how the fuel lines could have rusted and be leaking into the tank thus depositing water as well.

In short, the engine starts to turn over like it's going to start and then abruptly stops. Subsequent attempts to start result in nothing - not even a pinging sound. Then a day or two later I go out and it starts right up. I can't drive it anyplace because I fear I will encounter the starting problem a distance from home. Starter was replaced a few years ago, battery is new and cables tight.

Anyone else encountered this? Any suggestions? I have to find another shop so if anyone in the Fort Lauderdale FL area has any suggestions, they would be welcome as well.

Thanks

 

If the starter itself is not turning or stops while holding the ignition key in the start position---I'd think possible VATS problem first-- will it not start w/any ignition key or do you just have one key ? Could also be the contacts inside the steering column for the VATS.

 

Thanks - that will certainly be something I look at when I get home in Feb. I did only try with one key but I do have a spare and will try that one as well.

I just like to have some ammunition when I walk into a shop so they don't get out the vacuum - if you know what I mean.

Do you have any ideas on what might be constantly draining the battery? We've checked a lot of the obvious options including changing the door sensors (I don't know their technical term but they control the interior lights) but the problem persists and is very annoying. I now disconnect the battery when I have to leave it for a week or so. I really don't think he did a very good job with the sensors as one fell out into his hand when he went to check it. He then tried to tell me I had installed them. No - I asked him what it entailed and decided I didn't want to tackle the project and let him do it (receipt in hand). I now know he didn't remove the door panels to complete the install. Makes me wonder what else he didn't really do. Tough having to rely on others to fix your car.

Thanks again and I really do miss my ride.

 

If you hear the starter solenoid at least click when you hit crank position, then you don't have a problem with VATS. VATS problems will not allow any sound from the starter or starter solenoid. It sounds to me that you don't have VATS problems. When it won't crank, put a voltmeter across the battery terminals while someone attempts a crank. First, before cranking, the voltmeter will show the state of charge in the battery. 12.0 volts or below, discharged, cranking not likely so charge the battery up overnight with a battery charger. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear inbetween. If you have even a partially charged battery, then attempt a crank and watch the voltmeter. Good batteries, charged and with good low resistance cable connections should not fall below 9.0 volts during cranking. Another potential problem is the contacts inside the starter. At the end of the starter solenoid stroke, two large copper contacts are forced together which switches 12v to the starter motor. These contacts get blackened and pitted after many cranks and eventually do not make a low enough resistance connection to supply the 100+ amps the starter motor requires. These contacts can be replaced. If you haven't used the car much and it has a new starter and starter solenoid, you likely don't have that problem.
Even disconnecting the battery will not prevent the battery from discharging as car batteries self discharge just sitting there and you should not allow this to happen by using a trickle charger, or a battery tender, or weekly charging the battery to keep it charged. Batteries left sitting and deeply discharging permanently damages the battery! Don't let the battery sit for more than 4 weeks doing nothing. The voltage measured during cranking will tell you if you have a discharged or defective battery.
Batteries that rapidly discharge (couple days) have excessive leakage current. GM says leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have no problem with it. You measure leakage current by removing the negative battery cable and connecting an ammeter from the negative battery terminal to the battery cable and waiting until the courtesy lights time out and then read the ammeter.
To find excessive leakage current, at night look for underhood lights, vanity mirror lights, door map lights, center console light. Do you have a CB, GPS, aftermarket alarm or radio or audio amplifier? Check em. Do not leave your keys in the ignition while parked because this keeps the anti theft circuit on and discharges your battery.
Next, with the ammeter connected, pull the courtesy light fuse so you can keep the passenger door open and start pulling fuses while watching the ammeter and if you see a dramatic drop in current then that circuit needs more investigation. I believe the 92 has some fuses near the battery, pull them too while watching the ammeter.

 

Thanks, JFB. Really impressive stuff. I will print this out when I get home and take it with me to the next shop I pick.
I will also try the VATs though because my key is an aftermarket repro from a locksmith and not original GM. The other reply jogged my memory regarding this.

I do have a battery tender but am using it on my 65 Mustang which is parked outside under a canopy. The Vette is in the garage and I worry about potential fire hazards with the Tender. I wanted a kill switch but this tech put those terminal shutoffs on - which I hate and have had them spark in the past while the engine was running.

I really feel with all this information, I can get the problem located and can't thank you enough for taking your time to reply in such detail. Even I understand it! Happy motoring.

 

I wanted to answer a few of your points in case some of it makes a difference in your analysis. The Vette has only about 65,000 miles, the underhood lights were disconnected years ago as I used to show the car (hood up), haven't found any interior lights on recently but did have a problem with the passenger door and the window turning the lights on when lowered, no aftermarket products (I can find my way around w/o a GPS) and leave my keys in the car? Hey - this is south Florida, land of endless crime. But that's something I was not aware of-the key business. I have the original shop manual (no updates) and will check for any fuses near the battery. I won't be able to find them otherwise. So what's EE - electrical engineer? Now that would seem appropriate. Thanks again!

 

Yes I am an EE. Where did you find that?
If you don't have a test meter, go to Harbor Freight (online even) and buy their $8 VOM (voltmeter, ohmeter, milliameter), its digital and a pretty decent meter. The last sale I bought one for a present for someone for $1.99 .

 

Well either I'm psychic or about 9 years ago you included EE in your bio.

I do visit HF from time to time and will check out the VOM. Thanks

 

I vote with jfb on this one. Starter should be your first target.