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First of all, none of my torque wrenches fit
and
Second the engine turns when I try to put any force on it. (I was lucky on the disassembly (after I figured out how to get a wrench on it) that it had been out in the last 5-6K miles and it came out without struggle)
2) How do you get a wrench on belt tensioner in there with enough swing to loosen the belt? I had the water hoses out so there was enough room, but I don't want to that every time I need to remove/replace the belt.
Two best tips on working on the pump, #1 use a 6" extension and a short socket to get to the water pump bolt under the PS pump, #2 punch the old impeller out from front to back (the opposite of what you would expect!).
Use an impact wrench so that silly crankshaft doesn't get a chance to rotate!
Easier said than done, especially if the car is apart and you don't have compressed air and a gun handy...
Oh, and I've never had a problem unloading the tensioner with just a regular old 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. This is an '88 and an '89, don't know if your '94 is different.
[Modified by TrueBlue ChevyDude, 9:47 AM 3/5/2002]
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
I'm not real sure how much play an auto tranny leaves you, but with a manual you can pretty much set the rear on the ground, in gear, with the parking brake on. If your clutch is healthy, there is no way you can put enough torque on the thing to turn the motor. Unless of course you CAN put over 350 pounds of torque on the thing.
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (Nathan Plemons)
TrueBlue: On a 94 there's about 1 1/8" between the damper and the front cross-member. It's probably a little extreme to pull the engine to torque the damper. But I do like that sound :) .
Nathan: The auto trans lets the engine free spin. No traction with the torque converter till a couple of hundred RPM. At that speed, it's a little tough to keep the socket on the bolt.
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
It's a long shot, but it MIGHT work. You've probably heard that if you are going to change valve springs with the heads on the car you can use an air adapter in place of the spark plug, this pressurizes the cylinder and keeps the valves up while you change the springs. When you do this it kicks that piston to the bottom of it's stroke.
If you used something like this the air pressure MIGHT be enough to keep you from turning it. Another option, although irritiating is to remove all of your rockers. This would keep any of the valves from opening, thus keeping half of the cylinders trying to compress, the other half trying to pull a vacuum. It can still be turned, but it's a LOT harder. That combined with the air fitting thing MIGHT lock it in place for you to put the balancer back on properly.
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
On my '92, I prefabed flat stock steel arm appx. 16" long x 1" wide x3/8 and welded a 16mm 12 point socket to one end. That will fit nicely into the small space to allow you to rotate the belt tensioner (from the pass side) without removing your hoses.
Not a clue on your balancer problem.
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
There is not enough room to get a socket and a breaker bar on the belt tensioner on my 1996. I ended up using a cut down spark plug socket and the longest 3/4 box wrench I had. It still was a knuckle buster.
P.S. The spark plug socket is available from SLP Engineering. Very useful with headers. :smash:
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
The best thing I have found for the belt is to keep it simple stupid. Take a SMALL (3/8 rather than 1/2 inch drive) breaker bar and a 5/8 socket. You should be able to get that in there, but obviously it's no better than a wrench as far as leverage. This is where you take the box end of a wrench and put it on the breaker bar. This will give you enough leverage, and move the lever up to where you can work with it and don't have to worry about your fat hands being in the way.
It took me 3 or 4 belt removals to figure this method out, but it works great.
See my cheap azz drawing for clarification. This should be looking head on.
And would you believe I never did good in art class?
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (John Row)
To keep the engine from turning when torquing the damper, here's what I do.
Since your car has an automatic trans like mine it should work for you too. I use a long 3/8" extension, and stick it into one of the flexplate holes so that when the engine turns as I torque the bolt the extension wedges against the block and prevents the engine from turning.
When torqued, I simpy remove the extension from the flexplate.
Re: OK, now that the pump is installed???? (Nathan Plemons)
Your art work reminded me to look in my tool box. It turns out in with my belt tensioner tool there is a short extension that allows a dog leg in the lever arm. I should pay closer attention to what I buy!
I've used the box-end wrench "helper" more times than I care to remember.
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