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Did you use a multimeter to check the battery voltage or are you relying on the factory volt gauge? Because, as Jeff said, if the gauge fuse blew, it stands to reason that the gauge won't be too accurate.
From: And on the fifth day, subpoenas were served to Obama senior staff
Re: What does the GUAGES fuse control? (TIMSPEED)
TIM,
You ask questions and when folks try and help you don't like the answer.
The guys are right, somewhere in your wiring something is wrong! This is why the fuse is blowing. The fact that when you re-powered the panel the voltage came up supports this. Somehow voltage is back-feeding the panel. Don't know what you did with the alternaotr, but the first thing I would do is un-due what you did with the guages or whatever mod you made. Get the fuse to stop blowing.
You are looking for VooDo here and there isn't any.
Also, what did you replace that 10 amp fuse with? Did you say a 25 amp? And it still blew? That is NOT good. You may of melted down some wire somewhere.
The guys are right. I would go back and recheck any modifications to the original wiring. If you installed anything, disconnect it and replace the fuse to see if you still have a problem. Also, examine your wiring to see if anything is either burned or chaffed. You must have a serious problem that is draining the battery enough that it is hard to start after a short run time. Good Luck!
I have the exact same wiring configuration as Scorp. We both did our gauges the same exact way. I have replaced that fuse with a 25amp ONCE, to see if maybe it was just drawing a little more current (having that guage on it) and it STILL blew that fuse, so I'm guessing there's a problem somewhere. I'm going to take all the wiring out today and redo it all. HOPEFULLY it'll cure my problem. I just am confused as to why the battery would drain! :confused:
So you DIDN'T wire it into the rearview mirror light circuit? I thought you did. Maybe those wires up there just aren't enough power. I may say F the illumination portion of this guage, and just run it to the friggin' battery!
I'm going to completely rewire this thing as soon as I get a chance to do it, as well as most likely replace my alternator.
Sorry, didn't see that post. Hmm..I dunno, I don't really want to take my dash apart to do this, so I'll most likely just yank the thing off.
Then that's it then! Those puny wires aren't meant to take that kinda stuff. What happens, is the wires get hot and pop the fuse, but they're still pulling alot of amps off those little wires. It's like having all of the courtesy lamps on at ALL times. Easy as that, so it's either find other places to hook it up or sell it for what I paid for it...hmmm.
Maybe I'll just send the Mafia to shoot off Scorp's kneecap's because his works! :D
YES! The turn-on lead to the alternator is from the gauges circuit; if the fuse is blown and the alt doesn't see 12V on this input, it stays off. You'd see battery voltage only ~12V instead of ~13.5-14.0V. I believe the AC circuit provides an optional turn-on.
YES! The turn-on lead to the alternator is from the gauges circuit; if the fuse is blown and the alt doesn't see 12V on this input, it stays off. You'd see battery voltage only ~12V instead of ~13.5-14.0V. I believe the AC circuit provides an optional turn-on.
Well heck! This may be the answer to my prayers! If the alternator was BAD, then it could possibly be OVERLOADING the GUAGES fuse! I've already got my fuel pressure guage off though (although it's EASILY put back on), I'm gonna go down to Kragen's after school and pick up a new alternator!
From: And on the fifth day, subpoenas were served to Obama senior staff
Re: What does the GUAGES fuse control? (TIMSPEED)
NO, you are reading the circuit wrong. The curcuit turns on the indicator light. If the indicator light is open it may effect charging current, but that is not the problem in this case. You are reading problems INTO the problem. It is very simple. There is a short circuit to ground some where; perhaps a pinched wire, perhaps a miswired connection(s), perhaps a malfunctioning meter - but most likely a problem with the installation.
I'n not sure about the alternator, but from the posts there is no telling what has been done here!
I really don't know, but can you remove the meter (the whole process) w/o pulling the dash like you did before? I really think you have some wires crossed, or more likely wires pinched.
Do as you wish, but you should fix this before you buy the torque converter you posted about and the other couple of mods you posted about. I also don't think you should take this so lightly, you could burn your car. Do you have a shop manual?
Tim- your alternator is not bad; there is no way it can blow the gauges fuse. As mentioned above you have a short to ground in one of those systems- mine was in the ABS module wiring. I gotta bet money yours is the rearview mirror (aka header map light) since that's where you were connecting stuff.
Pete- the alternator is turned on by 12V at terminal F (from the AC fuse) or terminal L (from the Gauges fuse). The charge indicator lamp is off normally as the turn-on input is high impedance so there is minimal voltage drop across the bulb. If the alternator has a problem, it grounds that input causing a 12V drop which lights the bulb. The resistance is high enough to limit the current and not blow any fuses. You'll notice inside the alt, the resistor from terminal F; this serves a similar purpose to the lamp in preventing a short in the AC circuit when the alt grounds the turn-on input.
So the key is terminal L is really bi-directional; with 12V applied it turns on the alternator, but the alt can also ground this input to light the charge indicator. I've spent too many years as an electrical engineer to read circuits wrong...