Power bleeding clutch system
#1
Instructor
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Power bleeding clutch system
I was thinking of purchasing the Motive power bleeder for doing my clutch hydraulics and I was wondering if any of you have had any luck with this setup?
I was also wondering if you could use the mityvac hand pump kit to accomplish the same task?
I was also wondering if you could use the mityvac hand pump kit to accomplish the same task?
#2
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I have not used it but I dont know if it would work right. The clucth hydraulics are a self bleeding system. All I did was fill the slave cylinder with fluid before I installed it, let it gravity bleed for a few minutes, then I pumped the pedal a few times while someone opened the bleeder. The whole process took 15 min before I had a good pedal that disengaged the wheels.
#3
Melting Slicks
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http://www.brakebleeder.com/
Don't mess with anything else - also recommended by ZFDoc and they have GREAT support, bought one off ebay with a bad seal and they replaced it no charge, no questions asked.
I spent HOURS trying to use a Mityvac, then bought this thing and had pedal in like 3 minutes. It pushes fluid FROM the bottom UP to the top and therefore gets rid of any air pockets easily.
#4
[QUOTE=RUKWKR;1572688517]All you need is a Phoenix Injector:
http://www.brakebleeder.com/
I can't support that recommendation.
I have one (refurb from ebay), tried it on my friend's 91,and it is a complete POS. Comes with a bunch of junk plastic fittings (none of which fit the M12x1 threads on the master or slv cylinders BTW) and cheesy plastic hose connections and couplings that leak all over the place. Plan on taking a brake fluid bath with this junk. And of course neither the hoses and fittings, or the piston seal tight enough to generate the required fluid pressure to back feed the system.
Ended up bleeding conventionally and got a firm pedal quickly.
http://www.brakebleeder.com/
I can't support that recommendation.
I have one (refurb from ebay), tried it on my friend's 91,and it is a complete POS. Comes with a bunch of junk plastic fittings (none of which fit the M12x1 threads on the master or slv cylinders BTW) and cheesy plastic hose connections and couplings that leak all over the place. Plan on taking a brake fluid bath with this junk. And of course neither the hoses and fittings, or the piston seal tight enough to generate the required fluid pressure to back feed the system.
Ended up bleeding conventionally and got a firm pedal quickly.
Last edited by Mr6spd; 01-08-2010 at 09:23 PM.
#5
Don't want to be disagreeable, but the Phoenix bleeder is the best tool I ever bought. I jumped on this thread to recommend it, and saw that RUKWKR beat me to it. I've had it for about 10 years. I didn't know what a firm pedal was until I used it. I just saw an ad of theirs for the first time. It was in Autoweek. They say they can make your car stop faster because they get all the micro bubbles out.
#8
Melting Slicks
The system may be self bleeding, but there is a definitive requirement to replace the fluid on occasion.
I have 25,000 miles on a new slave/fluid...just bled the system the manual way-stuff that came out was not 'acceptable' and much better action on my original 125,000 ZF.
I've not tried the Phoenix system...I have doubts the Motive bleeder will work-I have one and only used it for the the brakes...manual only takes a few minutes to accomplish.
Good Luck!
I have 25,000 miles on a new slave/fluid...just bled the system the manual way-stuff that came out was not 'acceptable' and much better action on my original 125,000 ZF.
I've not tried the Phoenix system...I have doubts the Motive bleeder will work-I have one and only used it for the the brakes...manual only takes a few minutes to accomplish.
Good Luck!
#9
Melting Slicks
on my 96 lt4 I tried every possible way, except the right way, to bleed the system after new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. nothing seemed to work for me.
I finally went and bought a new (as in clean) grease gun; pulled off the hose, inserted a 1/8th NIP by 5/16 ths hose barb; filled gun with brake fluid, put one end of 5/16 th hose (clear soft plastic) on gun, other end on clutch slave cylinder bleeder screw, made sure all air bled from gun and hose, cracked bleeder screw partially open, used gun to pump brake fluid into slave cylinder and then up to clutch master cylinder.
within five minutes had clutch pedal.
and yes the system is self bleeding, after a fashion, but be forewarned:
rear of cylinder (i.e rear of car) must be higher than the front;
and if you try going this route, even while pumping the clutch pedal while opening, closing the bleeder screw, it is a long frustrating process especially if the whole system has been drained.
good luck
I finally went and bought a new (as in clean) grease gun; pulled off the hose, inserted a 1/8th NIP by 5/16 ths hose barb; filled gun with brake fluid, put one end of 5/16 th hose (clear soft plastic) on gun, other end on clutch slave cylinder bleeder screw, made sure all air bled from gun and hose, cracked bleeder screw partially open, used gun to pump brake fluid into slave cylinder and then up to clutch master cylinder.
within five minutes had clutch pedal.
and yes the system is self bleeding, after a fashion, but be forewarned:
rear of cylinder (i.e rear of car) must be higher than the front;
and if you try going this route, even while pumping the clutch pedal while opening, closing the bleeder screw, it is a long frustrating process especially if the whole system has been drained.
good luck
#10
Melting Slicks
Another helpful hint that works for me is to remove the slave and turn it upside down...bleeder screw is on top to bleed. I was unable to bleed it otherwise (bleeder on bottom)...the air bubbles didn't want to go down.
There is enough slack in the SS line to accomplish this as well as just two bolts holding the slave in.
Return to proper orientation when complete of course.
There is enough slack in the SS line to accomplish this as well as just two bolts holding the slave in.
Return to proper orientation when complete of course.
#11
Mtwoolford
Sounds like you did what the Phoenix people did. Good old fashioned American ingenuity. Then they further developed it and put it in production. If I'm not mistaken, the key to it is the fittings. They somehow connect without any air getting in (?). I think the technology comes from the medical field when they go tap into your blood vessels and don't want to give you a very dangerous air pocket.
Sounds like you did what the Phoenix people did. Good old fashioned American ingenuity. Then they further developed it and put it in production. If I'm not mistaken, the key to it is the fittings. They somehow connect without any air getting in (?). I think the technology comes from the medical field when they go tap into your blood vessels and don't want to give you a very dangerous air pocket.