I have a 93 w/6speed. Now it's always taken a bit to get it started but now it's like pulling teeth to get it to start in the mornings. Weather outside is not extreme either. 40F +/-10F.

Here's where things really started to concern me. I just did an 800 mile trip at about 60mph all the way and without issue...until I try to accelerate in any gear! It acts as though it's starving for fuel. I'm leaning toward a fuel pump but it could be something else..? After getting it started it runs and idles fine but after driving the car 30-60 miles it doesn't like to accelerate. It cuts out to the point where the drivetrain slapps, meaning not just sluggish but actually cutting completely out like you have a toggle switch on the fuel pump and randomly flicking it on and off!

Not sure if this has anything to do with it but the water temp has been running about 210 to 214 and it's been gradually running hotter and hotter since the 800 mile trip, Even in town. It never gets below about 207F. I know LT1's run hot but I thought I'd add everything I've been noticing into the equation.

Yesterday I went to start it after leaving it sit all night and I had to crank on it several times just to get it to fire. Finally after 5 or 6 tries of cranking 10 to 15 seconds, it finally started. Today it took even longer. I'm not even sure if it's worth trying to start it tomorrow... I'd like to mention that after it's initial morning startup and being driven around throughout the day it starts as it always has. It's just when it sits overnight and cooled off is it very difficult to start up.

What is the most likely culprit?

 

You need to get a fuel pressure gauge, sold at any auto chain stores. Check a manual for the exact pressure, around 40-45psi. It should hold pressure when the key is off, only dropping down alittle.
Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Check the coolant level, cooling fan operation, & debris between the rad. & condenser. Good luck.

 

Fuel pressure check is the first step. If you don't have a FSM PM me and I can send you a website that has the trouble shooting steps. It's at home on my laptop so I will have to do it tonight.

here is a link from the archived section

http://web.archive.org/web/200405051...=192&TopicID=2

 

Thanks! I'll try this then get back here and let you know what the problem was.

 

Still didn't find the problem.

Took it to the Chev dealer today and ran a codes diagnosis and it all came up clean. No pressure bleed off either. Hmm.. Said they tested the pump and everything ok. The tech mentioned the next time I go to start it after not running it for a day or 2 (When it's really hard to start) and turn the key on then off then on again and if it starts with no delay, it's the fuel pump. I haven't heard of that before. I guess it makes sense but I still don't know how I will know anything if it doesn't start after doing the on/off method.

Any new ideas?

 

Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge put on the car, run it & note the press. Than leave it on it over night, note the press in the morning. If low than watch how long it takes to build up.

 

A friend of mine had a "98" Mustang with 200k on the engine that would suddenly cut out and die on the highway as you described. It ended up being a bad Fuel pump.

After it was replaced he said, the engine felt like it was brand new!

 

That's a good idea. Thanks!

Everything is pointing to a fuel pump at the moment. The guys at Chev didn't notice anything wrong but if it's a sporadic problem they wouldn't be able to see the problem would they?

 

A car with an intermittment problem will never cut the fool in front of the mechanic. It's a known law of the universe.

 

Yep for sure!

Well, I tried to start it after sitting all night long and once again it took quite a few tries to get it going. For a minute there it acted like it was going to run then sputtered and died again but this time threw a "SYS" on the gauge. Not sure what that meant. Did it throw a code or something or is that normal when it dies. I've never killed it at a stop light before so I wouldn't know.

So this time when it gave me troubles I did as the guy at the dealership said, "if it starts hard again, just turn off the key and on a couple times" and I did that but it didn't do anything to help the matter. I'm stumped. ..

I'd hate to spend the money on a pump only to find that it wasn't the problem.

 

i dont know much but is the fuel filter clean? id try that first.

 

It has a new one on it...not that they can't go bad right away but I'm thinking it's not the filter. I only wish it was that easy!

 

From that great discription that you gave. My friend, its your fuel pump, after that long drive it finally gave out. That chevy mech. probally didnt check it properly. Its easy to change, a fuel filter 20.00, from track auto and fuel pump 138.00 hi performance, yes please change the harness also it can be faulty due to how old your the car is, then your good as gold!!! I have a 91 conv., and i drive it alot.

 

Change the pump, I have a chevy work truck that did the same thing, I would have to cycle the pump several times in the 30 degre mornings just to get it to stumble to an idle.Then it would run perfect at idle with powerloss at road speed. And the next morning the same fight all over again. Turns out cheap a@# advance auto pump.

 

Ok, now that I've established the need for a new fuel pump, would you recommend the new oem one on ebay for $67.50 shipped, or a Thunder Racing $99 one? Pros and cons?

ebay #180459041625
Thunder racing part # 135-C44-FPA-A about 1/4 down the page.

 

I have one of those coming in. I ordered it from them on 12/21/09 and they said they were on back order and I should be getting it any day now. I have a 90 so it's the same one.

I got tired of waiting on them and replaced my pump this weekend. I would be willing to give you a deal on it if you are interested, PM me. If not, it's going back.

 

PM sent. Thanks

 

So I just bought a fuel pump and the much recommended wiring harness yesterday but I can't find the damn FSM to save my life. I've read on here I think somewhere that it takes only 20 min to swap. Is this true? Also, how do I go about doing that? I'd hate to pay a mechanic when I can do it with simple hand tools as long as there's not too much involved. I have very limited working space where I live and of course no shop to do it in.

Thanks.

 

Access to the fuel pump is under the fuel filler area. Remove the door, and the boot around the neck. There are a handful of 10mm bolts securing the filler neck plate to the tank. Disconnect the hoses and wiring, remove the bolts, and remove the pump assembly - it will require some twisting and maneuvering in order to remove the pump assembly. Once the assembly is out, it's self explanatory from there. Cut the ziptie to remove the old pump from the cylinder it sits in, slip in a new pump, new ziptie, new strainer sock, and reinstall.

 

excellent directions as I have completed mine!!

But what zip tie, mine didn't have one. I actually questioned it just sitting in there with only the the fuel line connected and I guess the sock. Would a zip tie be good in the fuel tank? If I am supposed to have one I will take it back out and put one one it.

Thanks