Bad replacement brake booster?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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If you are able to get your booster out without removing your MC, then you are a better man than I. I friggin' hated that job because I had to bleed the brake system, and yes, my back was feeling pain for days......
Sounds like the time I replaced that damn Bose CDM/tuner module in my '92 coupe. It's on the passenger side of the car under the dash and is another royal PITA to replace, too.
Sounds like the time I replaced that damn Bose CDM/tuner module in my '92 coupe. It's on the passenger side of the car under the dash and is another royal PITA to replace, too.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 174
Likes: 4
From: Austin_Palm Bay_Houston Texas_Florida_Texas
I have never tried this booster vacuum trick, but I would think that the check valve on your booster would prohibit you from measureing vacumm. Each time as you stop pumping the "bleeder", the check valve will close, and your gauge will read 0Hg.
I am guessing, but I think the only way this type of test could be conclusive is if you remove the check valve......
I am guessing, but I think the only way this type of test could be conclusive is if you remove the check valve......
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
That sounds easy enough. It looks like you should be able to suck air on the check valve, but not be able to blow air. I just noticed the booster on my 89 is original.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Middleburg Florida
I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, I'm just wondering how those of you that have replaced your booster dealt with the diagonal running crossmember in front of the booster. 
On my 1992, there is 1/4" clearance at best between the square tube and the lower left portion of the booster . I've seen a really good photo breakdown from a young man that recently replaced his, but he made no mention of this downtube.
Also, I bought a replacement booster from Autozone, part number 54-71405, has anyone else used this one?
On my 1992, there is 1/4" clearance at best between the square tube and the lower left portion of the booster . I've seen a really good photo breakdown from a young man that recently replaced his, but he made no mention of this downtube.
Also, I bought a replacement booster from Autozone, part number 54-71405, has anyone else used this one?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
From: Weston FL
Anyway, when I installed a booster in my '93, I went ahead and spent the extra $$ on a new OEM Delco booster, because I did not want to have to do this anytime soon. New ones are going for about $265 from "thepartsladi" on fleabay. If that booster is toast, that would really suck. I think O'Reilly uses A1 Cardone for all their reman'ed stuff, FWIW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, I'm just wondering how those of you that have replaced your booster dealt with the diagonal running crossmember in front of the booster.
On my 1992, there is 1/4" clearance at best between the square tube and the lower left portion of the booster . I've seen a really good photo breakdown from a young man that recently replaced his, but he made no mention of this downtube.
Also, I bought a replacement booster from Autozone, part number 54-71405, has anyone else used this one?
On my 1992, there is 1/4" clearance at best between the square tube and the lower left portion of the booster . I've seen a really good photo breakdown from a young man that recently replaced his, but he made no mention of this downtube.
Also, I bought a replacement booster from Autozone, part number 54-71405, has anyone else used this one?
Once you get the booster loose from the firewall the bottom of the booster will actually tip upward and out.
What I did in the engine bay (not necessarily in this order, but close, I think):
1. Removed ECM and bracket
2. Removed cruise control servo/bracket
3. Loosened diagonal support bar
4. Unmounted ASR unit
5. Disconnected MC from booster
Once you remove the two nuts from the booster from inside the cabin, you can move the ASR unit out of the way, pull the MC toward where the ASR unit was, and then pull the booster out.
Hope this helps.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Auto zone or kraggen, and others, will sell you a well pricer, used, rebuilt one for less than an new one, the brand is the al-cardon same model number that you mentioned. They will even give you a liftime warranty, but unfortunatly who wants to change a booster, more than once. Same happend to me,the first one hissed, then went bad in one month, then the thing wasn't preset correctly. I changed it 3 times!!! My friend your problem is the used rebuilt. Get the metal ones, they accutally work better for same price. Or you can get a new one for about 269 or more. the plastic cheap ones go bad in hot weather too, all under same liftime warranty!!!. Lets face it the manufacturer new what they were doing, people that rebuild, for this brand really don't!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,247
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado, USofA
Auto zone or kraggen, and others, will sell you a well pricer, used, rebuilt one for less than an new one, the brand is the al-cardon same model number that you mentioned. They will even give you a liftime warranty, but unfortunatly who wants to change a booster, more than once. Same happend to me,the first one hissed, then went bad in one month, then the thing wasn't preset correctly. I changed it 3 times!!! My friend your problem is the used rebuilt. Get the metal ones, they accutally work better for same price. Or you can get a new one for about 269 or more. the plastic cheap ones go bad in hot weather too, all under same liftime warranty!!!. Lets face it the manufacturer new what they were doing, people that rebuild, for this brand really don't!!!
Rebuild kits used to be $30 or so, and the spring that actuates everything requires about 20 lbs of force to work with. So repairing a booster is: Rotate the front face from the back face while applying 20# force, separate the two halves, remove diaphragm, replace with new, reassemble, swap one way valve.
If you can contain it from popping apart, and get it back together, It's a 1 repair on the scale from 1 to 10.
