u-joints and teflon washers
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,772
Likes: 64
From: Mystic CT
u-joints and teflon washers
I am planning on changing both during the next snowstorm here it ct and i can not drive my coupe. That and check out the rear bushings so no doubt a project that will mushroom into yet one more thing to do. I did a search on u-joint and got a lot of stuff that had nothing to do with what i am looking for. Understanding I do not put a lot of miles on the car and it is an L98 that with some luck might make 350 hp to the wheels at some point in time. I remember reading that the ones with grease fittings were not preferred because not as strong. Saying that i really like the idea as well to pump fresh grease through them because in the winter the car sits a lot. I try to take it for a spin on a borderline good day even if for only 15 minutes to get it up to temp etc. Would the u-joints with grease fitting work at this power level and no will never see slicks or drag race either. Looking at drive shaft and half shafts all at once. And you do the drive shaft and leave the c-beam in? and what is the part # for the teflon washers for the half shafts?
Any and all thoughts appeciated..
Dave
Any and all thoughts appeciated..
Dave
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Oxford CT
I am planning on changing both during the next snowstorm here it ct and i can not drive my coupe. That and check out the rear bushings so no doubt a project that will mushroom into yet one more thing to do. I did a search on u-joint and got a lot of stuff that had nothing to do with what i am looking for. Understanding I do not put a lot of miles on the car and it is an L98 that with some luck might make 350 hp to the wheels at some point in time. I remember reading that the ones with grease fittings were not preferred because not as strong. Saying that i really like the idea as well to pump fresh grease through them because in the winter the car sits a lot. I try to take it for a spin on a borderline good day even if for only 15 minutes to get it up to temp etc. Would the u-joints with grease fitting work at this power level and no will never see slicks or drag race either. Looking at drive shaft and half shafts all at once. And you do the drive shaft and leave the c-beam in? and what is the part # for the teflon washers for the half shafts?
Any and all thoughts appeciated..
Dave
Any and all thoughts appeciated..
Dave
I'm not sure I can answer your question regarding the strength of the greased fitting u joints but, this is my first time changing the u joints on a C4 and after doing a forum search, the general consensus seems like go with the spicer models without the zerks. So, that's what I did. Denny's driveshaft has a kit for the C4 that includes U joints, bolts and straps for the driveshaft and both half shafts. As for the C-beam, you can remove the driveshaft with it in as long as your willing to bend that one body flange that's in the way. However, if you're looking to do the rear bushings, you'll need to remove it anyway if you include the diff housing.
One question - What do you mean by teflon washers?
Hope this helps - Mike
Last edited by npbassman; Jan 14, 2010 at 09:36 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
Here's my thought on zerks or no zerks. Read all the posts you can find on bad u-joints, then look at how many are due to actual *physical breakage*. There aren't many. And of those, most were toasted on the track by big HP motors.
Almost all the bad joints are due to needle bearing failure, mostly because of a lack of grease. I've done my half-shaft u-joints 3 times. Mine went bad every time due to dried out & broken bearings, not breakage. If everyone was replacing their joints because they were breaking, I might favor the solid joints. But, that's not the case. IMO, it's a myth.
Also, I'm pretty sure the trunion is drilled all the way through on either type joint so you can pack them with grease. I don't remember, but you can stick a paper clip in there if you want to check. So you're talking about the strength difference of one 1/8" hole for a grease fitting.
GM# on the teflon washer is 14076924
Almost all the bad joints are due to needle bearing failure, mostly because of a lack of grease. I've done my half-shaft u-joints 3 times. Mine went bad every time due to dried out & broken bearings, not breakage. If everyone was replacing their joints because they were breaking, I might favor the solid joints. But, that's not the case. IMO, it's a myth.
Also, I'm pretty sure the trunion is drilled all the way through on either type joint so you can pack them with grease. I don't remember, but you can stick a paper clip in there if you want to check. So you're talking about the strength difference of one 1/8" hole for a grease fitting.
GM# on the teflon washer is 14076924
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
On my 86, I didn't remove anything for the driveshaft except the drive shaft. i remember using a jack to raise and lower the rear hub a little to finagle the drive shaft out of the car.
If I had removed the half shafts, I probably wouldn't have had to use the jack.
If I had removed the half shafts, I probably wouldn't have had to use the jack.
